So when the Rev C boards are available.

Depends if you need the Rev. C features.  Most of the Rev. C improvements have to do with the AC input functionality; the AC output circuitry is basically unchanged.  If a Rev. A.1 / B board does what you need, then there is no need to upgrade.  And I'm speaking from personal experience: my house inverter has an A.1 board in it...right now.  Probably won't get upgraded this year, either...even though over a hundred C boards will pass through my desk just a few feet away.

Sean & I will have to talk about this.  A business can't hand out free stuff without going broke (something the govt hasn't figured out yet, haha!)  But there's also the requirement of taking care of customers so that they have what they need.

Once we get a bulk order or 2 of the new boards in, we do hope to offer them for sale as package kits together with a WiFi board.

Depends if you need the Rev. C features.  Most of the Rev. C improvements have to do with the AC input functionality

Youtube  video  say  the new 12kw GS inverter can  grid tie  but  not backfeed  power  to the  utility .   The  inverter must not backfeed  or the  smartmeter  will  detect and charge a  huge penalty  to my utility bill  .   This  feature  is useful  when  at  night the  battery  run low  and the inverter will  shutdown  and  then  switch   power from the grid .  I am not sure  if  the inverter  will turn itself  back on again  when the battery is charge up .  Powerjack will  shutdown when  the battery is low  and  stay  shut off  until I  go outside and  reset  manually at night  . Sean say no UL listing  but that not important to me .

Grid tie without backfeeding is known as "zero export."  Not sure how sensitive the "smart meter" is...as while it's possible for a Rev. C control board to regulate the input AC current to zero (or as close as practically possible)...if there's a sudden shift in the load, a bit of power will slip through one way or the other until the inverter regulator adjusts.

GS inverters have automatic restart settings for battery UVP/OVP protection (as well as overload / overheat).

A much simpler and easier method to handle grid backup is to use the inverter in normal operation mode with AC input & ATS.  You can configure the ATS on and ATS off voltage threshold settings; if the battery gets too low, the inverter will automatically (sync and) switch to the AC grid.  (Rev. C will be able to do a perfectly seamless transition to the grid.)  If the inverter runs on the grid all night, once the solar chargers charge the batteries back up and reach the ATS "off" threshold, the inverter can drop back to battery-powered operation.  (Note that even on Rev. C, this may have a slight 1-3 cycle "glitch").

You can also specify a separate charge trigger threshold (as well as enable/disable) for battery charge from the grid if desired. 

Looks like I might need to send both of my inverters in then.  cause if I can have the main grid from outside com in to the inverters, to run the house while charging the batteries at night if they get low then that be a win, win for me.

I'm about to go back live, just splitting up the inverters on their own battery banks, each with 400amp draw, instead of one big bank, cause I would need bigger wires then what I got or double up with and I'm limited on how many lugs I can put on the bolts.

if I can have the main grid from outside com in to the inverters, to run the house while charging the batteries at night if they get low then that be a win, win for me

Yes  that is a feature  I  like .   I  look  a youtube  again  and again  and  Sean  say  grid backup  .  I  hear of battery backup  and generator  backup  but  no  inverter on youtube has  grid backup that I can  find  .   I  am not sure how  ATS  work with  grid backup .  I  think  I  would need at least  one  completely separate branch  service panel  and the main  panel  to supply the input for ATS  .   

Technically you could run the outside grid into the inverter, and the output of the inverter go to a panel.  HOWEVER, the MAXIMUM current is limited by the inverter's wattage rating.  For a 6kw inverter @ 240v, that's 25A.  Most house service is 200A; the inverter cannot handle that much power.

In cases like that, you'd want to have a subpanel that the inverter runs "battery backup" style.

"Grid backup" is basically ATS / UPS mode, which most featured inverters do support to a greater or lesser level of customization.  "ATS" mode auto switches between battery and AC input (grid / generator, or otherwise) based on the battery voltage.  "UPS" mode runs from the AC input whenever possible.

 For a 6kw inverter @ 240v, that's 25A.  Most house service is 200A; the inverter cannot handle that much power

The  output to the  panel  will be  25A  and  wiring like that will not work  .    The  FETs  will blow if more than  25A .    I  thought  the GS  revA  and  revB  control  board  already has  ATS and generator  backup  so Blindwolf  do not  need  to  return his  GS inverters   for the revC  board  .    

57 minutes ago, dickson said:

The  output to the  panel  will be  25A  and  wiring like that will not work  .    The  FETs  will blow if more than  25A .

No, the FETs won't blow...but the transformer will overheat, and the internal chassis wiring isn't rated for more than the design spec 25A.

The FETs in a 6kw inverter @ 48v can handle roughly 30kw with a conservative rating.  FETs aren't the limit.

9 hours ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

No, the FETs won't blow...but the transformer will overheat, and the internal chassis wiring isn't rated for more than the design spec 25A.

The FETs in a 6kw inverter @ 48v can handle roughly 30kw with a conservative rating.  FETs aren't the limit.

huh? wait, I thought that each of my 6K was setup to output 50A each?

You got me confused lol.

Righto, YOURS are set up for 120v single phase output...so yes, 50A output.  Most of the inverters we sell are in the 240v config...I guess it's a confusing generalization.

So has a price been decided on a upgrade of our a/b board to rev C?  If its nothing more then moveing one wire from the old to the new that should be a easy thing for me to do if I have a sighted perosn there to make sure everything goes to where it supposed to be.  All I would need is the c board I'm guessing.  once I switch them out, I can send my old boards for your to upgrade.

While I'm switching board, I guess if I want to up may volts say to 36 volts I can probley do that, if sawn put those wire things like he said i the vid, shouldn't be hard to move what one wire from one screw to antoher to increas the tran to do 36v?

Upgrading an A.1 to a C board is DEFINITELY a project for a sighted person who is electrically savvy.  The board layout is COMPLETELY different, and several of the connectors have changed (genstart / power button are now on separate connectors, not the same ones).  Wiring is different, and now there's 2 external amperage sensors that need to have 2 wires crossed through them in opposite directions, etc.

And like I responded on the other thread...switching to 36v also requires a rewiring of the transformer primaries.  Not just one screw, more like the wires on 4-5 screws need moved around appropriately.

I could coach a sighted person through the process via video call, but it's not a "plug'n'play" job by any means.  But if it avoids the cost of shipping inverters back and forth, that might be worth a try.

Will say that with your setup on 120v single-phase inverters, there's not as much of a need for Rev. C's added features.  The auto gen start/switching, etc. is also coming to the Rev. A.1/B boards via firmware update.  Also with 120v inverters, there is no AC input backfeed issue.