Wireing up the GS Inverter to your Main.

So this gets complicated, particularly for your desired setup.  You want 2 inverters in "daisy chain" mode (tests are going well btw, just need to put a bunch of safeties on it!)  For setup:

• Inverter A: configured for Normal Mode.  This is the "master" inverter.
• Inverter B: configured for SLAVE-Parallel.  This is the "slave" inverter.

The "master" inverter gets all 3 output legs (L1, N, L2) directly connected to the breaker panel.  Note that if the grid mains is already "on" when this inverter is turned on, it will throw an "Output Error" and refuse to start up.  However, flipping the grid breaker "on" while the is inverter running will most likely result in catastrophic failure of the inverter.  Detecting this is extremely difficult; it's best not to get in this situation in the first place.

The "slave" inverter gets both input (NOT THE OUTPUT) legs also directly connected to the breaker panel across L1-L2 (240v).  Separate 25-30A breakers on each inverter would be highly recommended.  The output terminals of the slave inverter are NOT connected.  (It actually backfeeds power out of the "Input" terminals in Parallel/Grid Tie mode.)  This allows it to disconnect the input power if necessary, as well as properly sync to the input signal.

You might consider connecting the input AC mains to a separate breaker panel, and wiring it to the input of the MASTER inverter.  This would allow safe access to grid power if your batteries just don't have enough juice to last through the night.  Automatic transfer and/or automatic battery charging can be done (though this may cause issues resulting from the SLAVE inverter...I'll have to think about it.)

Okay, you lost me on the Slave setup.

The Master, gets output to the breaker as normal, then the slave input goes to the breaker as well?  what do the output of the slave go to then?

I only need to 60a breakers right?  Also I will be useing a Champion 30a RV gen invert for battery charging.  So I guess I would hook that ot the mast input?

I would recommend two 25-30A breakers, one per inverter.  6kw @ 240v is 25A.

Yes, slave input goes to the breaker panel; I would recommend it being on a separate breaker from the master inverter.  Output of the slave unit is not connected.  The total power of the inverters is only ever "seen" at the breaker panel.

Yes, connect the generator to the master inverter input.  Wiring up generator start may be a bit of a challenge for you...for whatever unknown reason, I used a 3-pin micro-XLR jack for the gen start control outputs.  Rev. B GS inverters use a much more standard 5.08mm 3-pin push-release wire connector.  (Wouldn't it be nice to ask Amazon Alexa, "Alexa, can you start the generator?"  haha, so many possibilities here!)

Well the Champion RV gen I got has remote start :P.  all I have to do is click a button on the key fog and it'll start up.  hmmmm. I thought that 3k was 30 amps, so 3.6k is 30 amp then. so I need a double or I guess they call them two pole 50a breaker.  Still lost on the slave, I'm guessing you useing the slave input side as a grid tie basicly from what I'm understanding.  So the third GS if I decide to get one for some odd reason would be setup the same way, so the input to the breaker would change Hz from 60 to 61 and the third would be 63Hz phasing.

well I forgot what protocal it is, but, Itff or something like that is uced on scripting for amazon and google from what I heard.

Protocol, you're referring to IFTTT (If This Then That)?? 

Calculating amps is pretty easy via Ohm's Law.  Divide watts by volts to get amps.  And divide watts by amps to get volts.  So 3000W / 240v = 12.5A.  This is assuming split-phase operation is desired; GS inverters are capable of running 120v mode, which will double the amperage available: 3000W / 120v = 25A.  If in this case, you could run the 2 inverters one per phase, one in Normal Mode, and the other in SLAVE-SPLIT (running 180 degrees out of phase from the "master").  This limits charge to 120v, though.

Yes, slave "input" is used as the grid-tie output, as it can be switched on and off by the CPU, as well as it having AC wave polarity detection (required for sync!)

They all run at the AC output frequency set by the Master inverter; frequency shift is used in grid-tie systems to "throttle" down the slave units as necessary (60-62Hz).

Yes, IFTTT  is what I ment, smart things and google and amazon uses that.  I think its the most strip down you can get on devices.

Anyhow.  Well, you saying 120v charging, well, that just it, my RV gen has a 30a 120 pure sign output.  and pretty much my whole main box is almost filled up it has 6 slots left for three 240v, if I can use only one 240 breaker for both GS inverters, that might work better, and  be able to use the charging.  I don't know if they make a 100A breaker or not. and I'm not sure what wire size would I need to go for, I know 10/3 is for 30a service.  I'm guessing it would be a 8/3 for 50a service,  since each wire would be able to handle 50a so two wires would be the 100a service.

Are you looking for a manual or automatic transfer switch?  And do you plan to switch it while under load or only with the loads turned off?   MSC has a 100 Amp Generac manual transfer switch but takes a month from order to delivery. A Transfer Switch is rated at load switching capacity so it actually may be able to handle a higher load if the loads are applied after the switch is made. Depends on the unit.

Our small transfer is a 50 Amp that runs a panel that in theory could draw 80 Amps if all the breakers hit their peaks at the same time. It was approved on the electrical drawings supplied to the County on a stamped electrical engineers approval. Our other Transfer Switch is huge. It is rated for 600 Amps but has been fuse limited to 200 Amps. If the center lug kit was installed, it could do 3 phase power. It can be switched under full load as the fuses are the Slow Blow type. I would have preferred a smaller unit but when you only have one day to get the item and it is 100 miles away and your employer is the one who locates it for you, you take what you can get.  And like in Texas right now, there might not be any others available. It has been in use since 1992 with no problems. The input sides are fused at 200 Amps but the Emergency side then has a 50 Amp breaker for the Generators. The Generators themselves have their own breakers and connect by 4 wire plugs and cables.

You can get a 63Amp rated 4 pole automatic Transfer Switch made by the Chinese. As to whether it can handle that full load or not, I can't say. I use mine for only a 15 Amp load and even that isn't what is switched. The switching is actually done by a 40 Amp rated relay. I did things that way as then the contacts in the transfer switch only see the control circuits loads and not the power loads. And it is far simpler to replace the relay than the powered switch. The ground circuit is also switched by the powered switch. That was done so that the two Grounds are isolated from each other so an inverter that is 110 Volts has the Neutral connection isolated from the house Neutral and Ground.  Some of the inverters do not have a true Neutral as on 110 only, the second leg is also hot. The unit also has a time delay relay in it so that while a transfer of inverter to powered outlets is delayed, the transfer to commercial power is instant. Reason for that is so that an inverter can power up without load and then accept the loads after a 30 second delay. The transfer itself is instant once the delayed timer relay times out. Inverter shutdown results in instant transfer to commercial power if available. As you can see, I tend to over build things.

So your generator is a single-phase 120v unit?  That's very important to know and communicate to Sean for setup--the inverter can be configured for either 120v or 240v input, but not both.  It has to be configured at setup before shipping (yes, it's possible to change later down the road, but doing requires voiding your warranty).

Yes, if I can still keep it master and slave 240v with 120v charging, I would go that route, just incase one inverter goes down for some reason.

Waterman

Thansk for the info,  I think I won't need a transfer, since it would mean I have to contact the main power company to come out, pull the meter and or take me off the pole, then install a service disconnect on the outside which comes from the meter, then from that to a transfer, then back to main.

Right now the way they got houses here built, the power comes directly from the meter to the main, the main breaker is the only cut off for power, which I don't like.    I do have a 50A 240v transfer switch laying around, but, not sure if that is 50a per leg or both legs combine.  If it was per leg, I could use to gs setup like side said each one 120v in different phase and use it then.  But, like I said it would mean rewireing the main and meter to be able to pull from the grid it self.

This starts getting complicated.  The charge voltage also determines the "parallel" voltage.  If it's set for 120v charge, then it will be 120v "parallel", not 240v.  This may take a bit of thought to figure out.

I do not expect the GS inverters to be failure prone.  (Obviously, once we get them out in the field, we might discover some things to tweak.)

It sounds like you need the "master" inverter to have 120v "input", for your generator.  The "slave" inverter has to have 240v "input" for parallel mode.  This unfortunately means that they aren't swappable; however, in the event that the "master" inverter should go kaput for whatever reason, you could disconnect it from the system, and switch the "slave" inverter to "normal" system mode, and rewire the panel to the AC output leads...

Hmmmm. okay, so if its going to be that big of a issue, I guess both needs to be set as 120 then.  Either way both GS will be tied into the same battery bank.  I'll just have to go get a 8/4 wire and a 100 amp 240v breaker if they make one.

There are some kits out there that will allow you to do the work just in the main panel. That only requires either skill or turning off the main breaker. What they do is lock out the Main Breaker and allow an extra breaker to be turned on. Many old installation in industry worked that way as it was cheap and so was the labor to have someone operate them.  We had them in use up into the 2000s. Our pump station was a bit more modern as we had a small automatic transfer switch and also keyed Main and large generator breakers. To close the large generator breaker you had to turn off and lock the main, remove the key and move it to the generator breaker, unlock it, turn it to on, then engage one of the generator breakers. We could sync the two main generators and switch between them while running either automatically or manually.

If there is enough room alongside your main panel, you could install a sub panel fed by a transfer switch. That is what we had originally and can still use. That would be a remove some wires and move to new panel and replace the old breakers that fed them with a new one for the transfer switch. I installed the large transfer switch when we had no commercial power so I didn't have to worry. We had no clue as to when we would get power back. Which was 5 weeks later. There weren't even any power lines on the pole in front of the house although the transformer was still there and went for about another 5 years after Andrew before it went bad.

If it is labeled as a 50 A 240 V Transfer Switch then that is 50 Amps per side. Most will still use a common Neutral in the wiring. Not good with 120V inverters as the N is still hot on them But okay on 240V units or if yours breaks the Neutral also.

So in that case, you'd have the "master" 6kw GS inverter running in 240v split-phase output, with 120v charge input (for the generator).

And the "slave" 6kw GS inverter running 120v "parallel" mode...but this will only "boost" one phase of your breaker panel, not both split phases.  Even if the inverter is configured for 240v output--since the output is not used for parallel--this will limit you to 3kw "parallel" max.  If the inverter is configured across the board for single-phase 120v, then you can get 6kw @ 120v output...but once again, it is only going to be a single-phase unit.

This might be getting a bit overcomplicated.  Inverter input/output voltage configuration cannot be changed without voiding your warranty.

Uhm, I bought two gs to get 12k, so either I can't use charging to get my 12k or if I use my chargeing and only get 6k and not split.  Geesh, I do got a 120v to 240v stepup transformer.  I think its the 5k model, could I just run the gen to it then take the two 120 outputs and pull from each L1 and l2, cause I checked and its split on the output and run that to the input of the gs?  Would that solve the problem?