Looking at your 6kw inverter

Deep breath.

Sigh.

I am fully aware that none of us can control your choices.  I do know that Sean is struggling to keep his head above the water with all the responsibilities he has--and with no help to boot.  Warranty work for Power Jack, trying to answer hundreds of international phone calls (or just giving up in frustration and turning his phone off so he can get something done on the bench), assembling and testing Genetry Solar inverters, and then losing track of Genetry Solar customers in the midst of all that..............

Sean's phone automatically shuts off outside of business hours, and he will not respond to calls/texts/emails after hours, in an attempt to maintain his sanity.  Right now, we do not yet have a CRM system to automatically catalogue customer communication (via phone, text, email, etc.) and prioritize a "worklist" at the start of every day--so it has to be done manually.  And unfortunately this results in it being super easy for customers to fall through the cracks.

I am trying to do what I can to help by answering questions on the forum (instead of working on the design, programming/debugging, supply chain logistics, and at long last writing a user manual).  But that doesn't mean I necessarily have a clue what's actually going on at the warehouse.  I'm over four hours' drive from Sean's place--I can't just run over there and see what's going on.

I was under the impression that it would ship last week, as noted in my PM to you ("Hopefully your inverter will ship Thursday"), but evidently there was miscommunication between Sean and I on this.

Tomorrow morning when Sean is back at work again, I will see if he can put your order ahead of the customers who have been waiting since last October.

Well, it's here finally thank God! But no instruction manual or warranty card? I just want to verify if this is a 48v model & was reconfigured for only 120 volts before I hook it up? & where do I pull the full 120 from.... the L1 N L2 & combine L1 & L2 or the L1L & L2N & is there a manual I can download?

DOes the big terminal have two wires on the l1 and L2?  if you take a prob and put on l1 and l2 and it don't read 240v then its a 120.  

If you have the inverter on the table looking at the AC side, from left to right on the big terminal is Input N Input l1 Ouput l2 N and L1 or in your case if its a 120 only then it'll be  N L1 input L1 N L1 output  Bothe the output will be 120v   each one rated 30A output same as mine.  take a prob and do a contentuity test and if you put on bout output it should beep, if its a 240v then it won't beep cause its a split.  I think I'm right Sid will say otherwise.

Also the warrenty sticker is on the backside  coner. that is yor warenty card to say don't break the seal, and your warrenty starts like next week in the system they keeping. 

just hook up the 48v to it, and if it fires up with no beeping going on then yes its a 48v. I tested mine with a 12v before I thrown 24v and it fired uip even with 12v. just beep basicly saying power low.

2 hours ago, Bossrox said:

But no instruction manual or warranty card?

For the time being anyway.

2 hours ago, Bossrox said:

is there a manual I can download?

Not fully yet...it's a work in progress on my laptop.  So much to do...code, design, supply chain, prototyping, testing, debugging...and writing the manual.  I can PM you the unfinished manual if that'd help?

2 hours ago, Bossrox said:

I just want to verify if this is a 48v model & was reconfigured for only 120 volts before I hook it up?

It should be 48v.  Like <a contenteditable="false" data-ipshover="" data-ipshover-target="/profile/3-the-blind-wolf/?do=hovercard" data-mentionid="3" href="/profile/3-the-blind-wolf/" rel="">@The Blind Wolf sorta pointed out, you can apply anywhere from 10-75vDC to it...and if the applied voltage is within the acceptable range of the system setup, it'll fire right up.  If the applied voltage is out of range, it'll harmlessly throw a voltage error.

Sean configured it for 120v single phase.  Unfortunately with the end panels precut for the more common L1 / N / L2 240v split-phase setup, it is a tad more confusing.  Here's a screengrab with some added stickers for clarity:

<img class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" data-fileid="463" data-ratio="89.57" width="489" alt="image.png.c598ef62bdfa1f7c5f9ebe0a6cf5f01f.png" data-src="/monthly_2021_06/image.png.c598ef62bdfa1f7c5f9ebe0a6cf5f01f.png" src="/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png" />

Both lines marked "L2" are your "line" output.  The "N" lines are the neutral lines.  (The "E" is the AC input.)

1 hour ago, The Blind Wolf said:

take a prob and do a contentuity test and if you put on bout output it should beep

Continuity checks won't be of any value, as the transformer coils have a very low resistance (ideally under 1 ohm; I don't recall the exact spec).

I will point out that warranty cards don't really do anything anymore other than potentially (though not very likely) have a company warrant a device even if you lost the sales receipt.  MSI would not warranty a motherboard that I bought from a 3rd party seller on Amazon (fulfilled by amazon) after it failed in less than a month, even though I filled out the warranty card and sent a copy of the receipt because the seller was not an authorized reseller.  That being said I have dealt with plenty of companies who won't honor a warranty card without the original sales receipt.  This system is just as good since you and Sean both have a copy of the original sales receipt and assuming that Sean is keeping good and organized records and following the 3-2-1 rules of backups of every inverter sale, he should be able to easily pull up your particular inverter sale in the future if a problem should arise.
 

One thing that may be helpful for you as you write the manual is to post a link to the in progress manual as a suggestion only Google doc or as a section on the forum with sections and that way if we have questions or comments we could add them and it might make writing the manual faster as people ask questions or point things out.  This might be especially helpful for the troubleshooting section as it can sometimes be difficult to put yourself in the shoes of your customers as far as technical skill level.

It's hooked up & running great. I'm glad it finally got it here, I was about to throw in the towel & get a Growatt but this is better suited for an off grid system & I'm really impressed with it's performance so far. The fans sound like a jet engine firing up on start up but at 25% load the fans just come on at a low speed & shuts back down pretty fast. Very quite at that load.

I fried a charger tho, forgot to disconnect them before switching to 48v & they were set for 24v. Funny tho, 1 of them is still ok but that was an expensive goof up but now that I'm on 48v, the surviving charger will now take double the panel input & give me the same power as both running at 24v so it won't set me back too bad while the that charger goes to the shop.

Glad its working.  Sorry to hear about that charger.  Yeah at 70c the fans will kick on at 25% on and off when one of them tempture in the GS hits 109F, stays on for a few seconds then goes off.  You think that is a lot of air. heck, when my two GS are working and then kick on the fans its like a hurrican in the room.it pulls the air from the button to the top, so its gets the cold co concraet.  I just installed another 24v batt just now, almost ready to do a full house power up.I know I can run 110v all day with no issue. its just having enough amps to handle the big 240v loads.  you are lucky, your setup will only require 150A at 48v to max it out at 6k, mine nearly 300A

6 hours ago, Bossrox said:

The fans sound like a jet engine firing up on start up but at 25% load the fans just come on at a low speed & shuts back down pretty fast.

Yeah, the fans are rated 250CFM each at full power...yes, they sound very much like a jet engine at full throttle.  Perhaps a tad overkill, but (up to a point) increasing heat dissipation often will allow a higher power output from the same size unit.

I think you should rename these Genatry Hurracan Solar Power Inverters.  Simply saying.  If its not making a hurrcan force air cooling, your not making any power.

Sid, when you guys get things settled down where you can get product in & out in a timely manner, you might want to delve into designing a serious charger. I spent big bux buying 2 Victron 150/100's & they just gave out within a couple days of each other. I was thinking these got to be tanks at their price but guess not. Anyways, they're sending me replacements but was no reason they should have died so someone needs to fill a void offering bullet proof chargers.

I got a complaint about the inverter you sent. The remote switch plug is junk & everytime I bump it, the connection is lost. I'd like to replace it but don't want to loose the warranty popping the hood to do it & not worth the trouble of sending it back & it doesn't register an accurate output voltage. If I set it to 120v, it's putting out 129v & the input volts is off too by .8v higher reading than actual volts. Other than that, it's purring along just fine so far.

Well.......I didn't have anything else to next-day ship to Sean...nothing that was isolated from the chassis anyhow.  Very easy to find connectors that are "grounded to the chassis", but those aren't exactly safe for that sort of input.

Also my fault on the design; didn't realize until after 2 batches of control boards were ordered that the voltage isolation technique I'd used was rather highly sensitive to heat.  You can calibrate these numbers from CFG -> System -> Calibrate Readings...adjust 'em while checking actual voltages with a meter.  Thermal error should be within 4v; like I remind Sean, the inverter isn't intended to be a Fluke-branded multimeter.

Will be fixed on Rev. C boards (still in the prototype stage); switched to using transformers for isolation, which have zero temp coefficient, and are perfectly linear.

I know...right now we're literally just 2 dudes working out of our livingroom/basement.  Lot of catching up to do, plus need to get some CRM software so we stop losing track of customers.  Have to start somewhere though.

Got it calibrated good now, that's a nice thing to have but I somehow got into the inverter mode & changed it not recalling what the original setting was. That menu gives you split phase, normal & several others. I set it to normal & it seems to be ok. Is that what it should on?

2 hours ago, Bossrox said:

Got it calibrated good now, that's a nice thing to have but I somehow got into the inverter mode & changed it not recalling what the original setting was. That menu gives you split phase, normal & several others. I set it to normal & it seems to be ok. Is that what it should on?

For most usecases, "Normal" is the mode you want.  The other system modes provide different functionalities...most for multiple inverters.