Looking at your 6kw inverter

So for all practical purposes, the built-in charger is little more than a high-amperage relay and some AC terminals.  (Looks like I may need to add some proper AC input chokes to that...but there isn't anything significant "added" for the charge function.)

This thread looks as good a place to ask as any since it already talks about frequencies a bit, so here's a technical question.  This is idle curiousity, nothing more, for Sid.

Is the waveform input into the LV side of the transformer produced by HF PWM, ie the 'carrier' frequency is some number of kHz or is it low frequency more coarsely chopped style with large (relative to the 50/60Hz output) on times with perhaps 3 to 6 state changes (2 or 4 smaller on intervals straddling 1 or 2 largeer central on intervals) across a half cycle of the 50/60Hz output rather than 100 or so (if 10kHz 'carrier') for the HF case.

Never mind, it's the many kHz approach.  Just watched the Genetry YT clip discussing transistor drive waveform issues.

Heya Sid, the order is in & anxiously waiting for it. I'll be doing a youtube video on it too to test how well it cranks out, will let you know when it's up & the link to see it.

Expect a couple of weeks; I believe it is on the second shipment, which I conservatively estimate to be here by the first full week of April.  Looking forward to providing you with what you need 😉

In preparation going from 24 to 48v I yanked all my batts out of my old shed & built another where I could get at the batts easier, then did a specific gravity test on them & what a mess in the cells state differences. So while waiting on the new inverter, gave 'em all an individual equalization & they're ready to go to work for the new GS. So what's the word on next batch? They in yet?

<a href="/monthly_2021_04/cab4.jpg.9a57af79dfc32cebfe77233ed9a6dfbd.jpg" class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image"><img data-fileid="232" src="//forums.genetrysolar.com/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png" data-src="/monthly_2021_04/cab4.thumb.jpg.dca760cee8410d2b986fd54bbd5758c7.jpg" data-ratio="75" width="1000" class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" alt="cab4.jpg">

Oh & I posted a youtube video of the new batt cabinet & a brief tour of my system for anyone to gander @

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhW6QwKpHYM

Last we heard was the 10th of April (that was on March 23rd)...I'm sure if I prod for details, we'll find they were delayed again 😉.  Seems if the shipping companies can't meet their own specified time, they'd adjust it to what they are actually capable of...

Heya Sid, I was watching many of the vids you got up on youtube today & I saw Sean testing an inverter & what caught my eye was the breaker coming off the power supply for the inverters battery input. I don't have a breaker on my battery wires right now & think it would be better if I did. What size amp breaker should I use with the 6kw you'll be sending & any particular brand you prefer?

10 hours ago, Bossrox said:

Heya Sid, I was watching many of the vids you got up on youtube today & I saw Sean testing an inverter & what caught my eye was the breaker coming off the power supply for the inverters battery input. I don't have a breaker on my battery wires right now & think it would be better if I did. What size amp breaker should I use with the 6kw you'll be sending & any particular brand you prefer?

Definitely recommend a DC breaker on the input of the inverter--nothing better than to have a safety kill switch if something goes wrong.

For 48v, the options are slightly limited, as most generic AC breakers are only good to 32vDC.  If you're at 48v, I would recommend a 150A 80v DC-rated breaker.  Here's an Airpax 150A 80vDC breaker: https://www.ebay.com/itm/AIRPAX-LELHPK11-1RS4-30560-150-V-Circuit-Breaker-80V-used/324529997337

Alternatively, you can use the GJ1P breaker series (like Sean has)...though the cost is also generally higher as well.  These breakers can reach past 400A ratings; here's a 170-amp breaker: https://www.ebay.com/itm/EATON-HEINEMANN-GJ1P-Z79-3-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-160V-170AMP/222523159468

If you're running 12 or 24v, most any generic breaker with the proper amperage rating is fair game.

Thx much Sid, I grabbed the eaton breaker, cost wasn't all that bad either.

Hey sid, do you got a recommendation for my type of setup?  I got two Type T 400a fuse that I was going to use, no cut off though.

I  got that breaker in Sid, need some advice tho. I'm under the assumption that all breakers have a specific path flow, ie 1 side is line & the other load but this breaker doesn't have anything on it indicating which is which, can you help on this. Here's a pic of it

BTW, I want to share an observation about battery desulfators. I bought 8 of the batteryminder brand & every article I can find says there's no solid evidence they work & I say they do & here's how I know.

I bought all my batts used. When I hooked them up with the desulfators on them, initially the back current after a full charge was 15 amps on 20 Cat 190 a/hr batts. over the months I saw it drop slowly to now, where it's at 3 amps. I think that is pretty fair evidence they worked, wouldn't you?

Physically bigger breakers like this can be non-polarised and have higher ratings as they can open the contacts far enough and fast enough  in relation to voltage / amp rating to break the current.  Check Eaton's datasheet for the breaker.  It will spell it out clearly if polarity needs to be correct.