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Nope no Cable is required, other then you wire the second GS inverter different then the Master inverter. the slave gets wired to the breaker box on its own breaker with l1 and l2 only connected to the input of the second gs inverter the Slave. I am sure you got to go into settings and change your inverter to master and the other to slave for everything to work. But the slave watchs the master by the shift in the Hz from what I understand from Sid.
That's basically how it works. "Slave" inverters work as a sort of "grid-tie slave" unit, they freewheel the FETs and so can only push power out in that mode. Throttle is controlled by frequency shift.
And @the-blind-wolfI got to some preliminary tests of "daisy" on my bench last night. So far so good...I fully expect to be able to release 1.1r2 today with the fixes, and Sean will be able to test your inverters on his bench, and get them out this week...hopefully...
Bob, we are talking about your inverter right now. Getting everything aligned so I can send this out to you.
Great, can't wait!!! Sid, that 170 amp breaker you led me to turns out will trip at a 2.5 kw load @24v so that figure will double @ 48v but would be 1kw short of handling a 6kw load off your inverter so just letting you know it would be better to recommend probably something more like 2-250 amper for your 6kw inverters.
On 4/22/2021 at 11:38 PM, Bossrox said:Yes, I did see it had line on the bottom of the label & another unknown 3 letter abbreviation adjacent to it that didn't appear to be a proper indicator to me. You'd think they'd have it stamped in the casing which was which.
Another thing is 1 end has a plate bolted to both poles while the other end doesn't so I'm going to just use it on the positive side & tie together the 2 separates. It doesn't seem that important to have both + & - poles on it.
It's a 170 amp but is that on each pole or just when combined & if 170 per pole, then does tying them together make a 340 amp?
On another note, the battery is the line side when it's being drawn from but wouldn't it be considered the opposite when the chargers are reversing the flow? Just wondering if that affects the breakers functionality?
I think there are one way breakers and bi way breakers. a Fuse is so much easier, it don't matter, either way, your going to blow it anyhow lol.
8 hours ago, Bossrox said:Sid, that 170 amp breaker you led me to turns out will trip at a 2.5 kw load @24v
Not sure where you're getting that number. 24v * 170A = 4,080W of power; at 48v, that's 48v * 170A = 8,160W. Of course, this is at nominal--if you use a more common 55v float level, that's 55 * 170 = 9,350W. (After going through the inverter, the actual output power will be a bit less due to inverter efficiency losses.)
I personally have a 150A breaker on my house inverter. Problem is, I've made the house stuff so efficient, that I haven't pulled much over 3.6kw out of the inverter ;-). Never tripped it.
I think there are one way breakers and bi way breakers. a Fuse is so much easier, it don't matter, either way, your going to blow it anyhow lol.
True, BUT it's a lot cheaper to reset a breaker...than it is to replace a fuse (that is, IF you have a replacement when it blows). My motto anyway. Breakers might cost more, but boy is it easy to flip them back on again after fixing the issue.
2 hours ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:Not sure where you're getting that number. 24v * 170A = 4,080W of power; at 48v, that's 48v * 170A = 8,160W. Of course, this is at nominal--if you use a more common 55v float level, that's 55 * 170 = 9,350W. (After going through the inverter, the actual output power will be a bit less due to inverter efficiency losses.)
I personally have a 150A breaker on my house inverter. Problem is, I've made the house stuff so efficient, that I haven't pulled much over 3.6kw out of the inverter ;-). Never tripped it.
I didn't do the math to see if that should be happening & if you're right then that breaker is tripping well below it's rating.
2 minutes ago, Bossrox said:I didn't do the math to see if that should be happening & if you're right then that breaker is tripping well below it's rating.
What load are you running on the breaker? And are both halves paralleled?
Just ran across a seller with 40+ new 250 amp 80v dc breakers on ebay for $50. A steal for anyone that might be needing something that big. I hope that's big enough to handle the new Genetry coming in.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293578382765?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
On 5/27/2021 at 10:36 AM, Sid Genetry Solar said:What load are you running on the breaker? And are both halves paralleled?
This is strange, at 1st I ran the chargers on 1 side & the battery, inverter on the other side & when the chargers were putting out near 200 amps it would trip. That's what I'd expect to see, so to keep that from happening, I switched the battery cable directly to the the charger output side of the breaker so that only the inverters were drawing on the breaker & it tripped when the inverters 120v output was doing 2.5kw. That doesn't figure right & both legs were combined. I don't know what to make of that.
9 hours ago, Bossrox said:This is strange, at 1st I ran the chargers on 1 side & the battery, inverter on the other side & when the chargers were putting out near 200 amps it would trip. That's what I'd expect to see, so to keep that from happening, I switched the battery cable directly to the the charger output side of the breaker so that only the inverters were drawing on the breaker & it tripped when the inverters 120v output was doing 2.5kw. That doesn't figure right & both legs were combined. I don't know what to make of that.
'Tis weird I agree, because 2700W (2.5kw + estimated losses) is only 56A @ 48v. Are you sure the breaker polarity is forwards, i.e. "Line" to the battery, "Load" to the inverter?
'Tis weird I agree, because 2700W (2.5kw + estimated losses) is only 56A @ 48v. Are you sure the breaker polarity is forwards, i.e. "Line" to the battery, "Load" to the inverter?
Yeah, I double checked it but I'm on 24v right now til your inverter gets here, then it'll be 48v but still it doesn't add up it tripping on that kinda load but a new 250 amp breaker is on the way, will see how that does. Gotta 170 amp cheap if anyone needs 1.
I'm miffed.... My new 250 amp breaker tripped @ 145 amps 24v, inverter output @ 3.5kw @ 120v. This is the 2nd breaker that's tripped under it's rating. This breaker is rated for 80 volts so I'm wondering if the amp capacity diminishes when used on lower voltage or should it be constant? Wasted near $100 on these. I've had it screwing with breakers, It's getting straight wired for good!
I'm miffed.... My new 250 amp breaker tripped @ 145 amps 24v, inverter output @ 3.5kw @ 120v. This is the 2nd breaker that's tripped under it's rating. This breaker is rated for 80 volts so I'm wondering if the amp capacity diminishes when used on lower voltage or should it be constant? Wasted near $100 on these. I've had it screwing with breakers, It's getting straight wired for good!
are you putting a breaker between the inverter and the battery bank? That is your problem. your breaker needs to be for each battery bank string. I'm putting 150a breakers on each one of my string. that what I didi with 12v now doing it for 24v. that way if the battery pulls more then what I want it to pull it shut it down. I use a type T fuse on my inline to inverter its ratted for 400a and its a slow burning fuse. haven't had any issue useing it, and I was useing it on a 12v system back then, the fuse is like $90. it can take a big I think 0/3 cable. Reason why I put a breaker on my battery string is, one the BMS supposed to cut off if over amp but found out that is not the case if its comeing from the postive side.
Also, how many 24v b attery strings do you have? you at least need 4 at the least to be able to max the gs inverter at peak load. any less, then you running into heat issue with a breaker if its in line with the inverter, hence why you need to run it from the battery to the jution block before the main cable.