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I'm miffed.... My new 250 amp breaker tripped @ 145 amps 24v, inverter output @ 3.5kw @ 120v. This is the 2nd breaker that's tripped under it's rating. This breaker is rated for 80 volts so I'm wondering if the amp capacity diminishes when used on lower voltage or should it be constant? Wasted near $100 on these. I've had it screwing with breakers, It's getting straight wired for good!
The trip amperage cannot change with the system voltage, as the only time the breaker will ever see the total battery voltage is if it's tripped.
Could you provide a photo of new 250A breakers you got?
are you putting a breaker between the inverter and the battery bank?
My battery banks are 48v I use 300 amp breaker between the battery bank and inverter . I use 300 amp breaker between each battery banks . Safe load for my 15kw PS inverter is 6000 watts with 300 amps breaker . I would not straight wire without any fuse or breaker as it is too dangerous . I trip many 300 amps breaker with inductive surge and fire is a real possibilty .
2 hours ago, dickson said:are you putting a breaker between the inverter and the battery bank?
My battery banks are 48v I use 300 amp breaker between the battery bank and inverter . I use 300 amp breaker between each battery banks . Safe load for my 15kw PS inverter is 6000 watts with 300 amps breaker . I would not straight wire without any fuse or breaker as it is too dangerous . I trip many 300 amps breaker with inductive surge and fire is a real possibilty .
Right, as long as you got a rated breaker per battery bank going to a bus bar then y our good, you don't need one from bus bar to inverter main line. my bms are 100a rated, I use 150a breakers bussmann breakers now since theya re cheap and are so far doing good.
Means more breakers, but if something goes wrong such as over amping on one battery bank it will trip saving any issue with melting wires and such. I've already had one battery went up, luckly the case smoother it out, due to the inverter yanking over 279a for a 100a bms, it litterly melted and flash vaper the nickle stirps I had holding the eletric wire to the terminal. Now I'm soldering to remove that weak link and as well installing breakers at the postive side going to the bus bar to prevent that from happening again. I'm learning as I go and glad that Sid and others are helping along the way.
56 minutes ago, The Blind Wolf said:Right, as long as you got a rated breaker per battery bank going to a bus bar then y our good, you don't need one from bus bar to inverter main line.
I hope you have fuses or breakers between the inverter and the point where you pull off the power from. Because the Amperage going to the inverter could be the sum of all the other breakers/fuses combined. If you had (4 ) 150 Amp breakers from your batteries to your buss, you could have 600+ Amps on it before it would trip them out and that would burn up an inverter in a hurry if you didn't have a 250 or 300 Amp protective device at the start of that line. That being with 24 Volts. If you were on 48VDC, then you would want a 125 or 150 Amp unit to protect it.
125Amps X 48VDC = 6000 Watts
150Amps X 48VDC = 7200 which is the point where you would not want to run for long even though the GS 6K would not mind much.
I'm on 24VDC so I put in (2) 250 Amp ones on the lines to the inverter from where the battery banks combine. That should take it to 6Kand protect it well.
From what I've seen even the elcheapo chinese HF inverters have internal fuses. Sure there's still scope for a wiring fault inside the inverter between the DC terminals and the fuse on the PCB but I think you are pretty safe there. Personally I wouldn't run without protection between the busbar and inverter, and at the busbar end of the wire too. Accidentally shorting the leads with a wrench while fitting to the inverter may require a change of underware and a new set of eyes.
Means more breakers, but if something goes wrong such as over amping on one battery bank it will trip saving any issue with melting wires and such. I've already had one battery went up, luckly the case smoother it out, due to the inverter yanking over 279a for a 100a bms, it litterly melted and flash vaper the nickle stirps I had holding
I am glad somebody admit to a battery blown up . One of my lithium ion battery blown up due to damage in shipping and cause internal thernal runaway . The battery was in a concrete box I made . Breakers save my other 12 banks of lithium battery and only destroy one . None of my battery is in the house just too unpredicable and dangerous .
I hope you have fuses or breakers between the inverter and the point where you pull off the power from. Because the Amperage going to the inverter could be the sum of all the other breakers/fuses combined. If you had (4 ) 150 Amp breakers from your batteries to your buss, you could have 600+ Amps on it before it would trip them out and that would burn up an inverter in a hurry if you didn't have a 250 or 300 Amp protective device at the start of that line. That being with 24 Volts. If you were on 48VDC, then you would want a 125 or 150 Amp unit to protect it.
Well if you want to do that yes, I mean I do got the T fuse which I did say on one of my post. I got one for each and they are 400a slow burning fuses. not cheap ones either.
2 hours ago, TheButcher said:From what I've seen even the elcheapo chinese HF inverters have internal fuses. Sure there's still scope for a wiring fault inside the inverter between the DC terminals and the fuse on the PCB but I think you are pretty safe there. Personally I wouldn't run without protection between the busbar and inverter, and at the busbar end of the wire too. Accidentally shorting the leads with a wrench while fitting to the inverter may require a change of underware and a new set of eyes.
Uhm, I can confirm that there is no fuse between the dc connection of the gs inverter to iits board. why? cause I fried one up for science. I mean it cooked big time inside. smell like burnt rubbger to the extream, waiting to see the results when sean opens it up.
and Yes I had fuses on the main wire going to the gs inverters when this happen. Was running my house, well the water heater then the drier, in 10 seconds the power went off, and it smell like burning rubber coming from the master, and it was dead as a door nail, while the slave just flash green waiting to get a signel from the master which took a dump. So if you get a gs inverter and UPS dropped it, be warn. . the known issue will be fixed on all gs inverters going out. But, lets just say that is why my washer machine was acting like a crazy mind. on the Slave inverter I've been washing cloths running dish washer cooking pizza, running microwave with no issue.
8 hours ago, The Blind Wolf said:Uhm, I can confirm that there is no fuse between the dc connection of the gs inverter to iits board. why? cause I fried one up for science. I mean it cooked big time inside. smell like burnt rubbger to the extream, waiting to see the results when sean opens it up.
I am presuming that the issue was a poor battery negative connection with a bad spade connector to the control board--something no external fuse could fix. (And yes, this could very easily cause the poor AC power that the washing machine didn't like.) We will be conducting an autopsy on it when it arrives, but at the moment, I am expecting just a blown power supply IC.
All inverters going out will have this connection soldered.
37 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:I am presuming that the issue was a poor battery negative connection with a bad spade connector to the control board--something no external fuse could fix. (And yes, this could very easily cause the poor AC power that the washing machine didn't like.) We will be conducting an autopsy on it when it arrives, but at the moment, I am expecting just a blown power supply IC.
All inverters going out will have this connection soldered.
Hey Sid can you check with sean to see where the gs is at? should be at his door step today, it didn't take but two days to get to me when he shipped. I'm waiting to know the results lol.
I wouldn't run without protection between the busbar and inverter, and at the busbar end of the wire too.
Yep.
23 hours ago, The Blind Wolf said:I'm waiting to know the results lol.
Results are in: it had to be that stupid NEG wire to the control board. Autopsy results show the classic signature of a bad connection on the NEG post: the main power supply chip is blown.
Our mistake. Will replace the control board and get it sent back out to you...but that connection will be SOLDERED this time! (And on all inverters going out.)
Results are in: it had to be that stupid NEG wire to the control board. Autopsy results show the classic signature of a bad connection on the NEG post: the main power supply chip is blown.
Wel, thatr explain why the washer hated that master soooo much. geesh, I know that was a costly fix too. nearly $300 in shipping geesh.
I did send him a control board through the mail that I bought from him a year or two ago, never used it or open it.
Also, how many 24v b attery strings do you have? you at least need 4 at the least to be able to max the gs inverter at peak load. any less, then you running into heat issue with a breaker if its in line with the inverter, hence why you need to run it from the battery to the jution block before the main cable.
I have 10 24v strings, none of them with their own fuses or breakers & they all feed into a 2/0 cable that comes into that 250 breaker, the battery & charger wires are joined on 1 side of the breaker & the other side goes to 2 4000 watt inverters but it tripped on a combined load of 145 amps so I don't get it what's going on. here's a view of it.
