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I think just buying copper bars would be easier all round.
But costs more if you have lots of wire laying around. 😉 I have some 2" copper pipe, think of what that could handle if copper wire filled as I described. And what a solid copper bar that size would cost.
I think just buying copper bars would be easier all round.
That what I did for my 24v system I bought stock copper bars, and use a drill press to make my holes, then stainless steel bolts and nuts . Used two copper bars per bus. I hope it works, if not then I can order more and make it even thicker.
So I am uploading a video on this topic.
Testing just a single inverter at 24v with sids setup made them too hot to keep running, so imagine running two inverters side by side.
I had to go back to the drawing board and make a setup that was powerful and efficient and the video will explain all. The goal is to have our daisy customer inverters start shipping by the end of thr week. I have everyone's info and will provide it when they ship.
Thank you 🙂
Sweet. though, thing is, if you had gone to the 12k side of things and bench test thme as daisy or three phase, as well even if they were at 36v, you would have ran into the same prbolem, and luckly nobody order 12v, and had you done a dasiy with that lol.
Sweet. though, thing is, if you had gone to the 12k side of things and bench test thme as daisy or three phase, as well even if they were at 36v, you would have ran into the same prbolem, and luckly nobody order 12v, and had you done a dasiy with that lol.
Most all of our testing has been at 48v, and it's super easy to connect the inverter(s) to a 48v battery and away we go. But for customers wanting 24v or 36v...we need to properly test them in that configuration--and that's when the overheating problem was discovered.
Yes, but, if Sean was doing more then one order, and use the bench at the same time, it probley would have happen even at 48v.
Oh where, oh Where is that videio? I ain't seen it yet lol.
Oh where, oh Where is that videio? I ain't seen it yet lol.
Not released yet 😉
Reading this thread in case someone else stumbles on it and needs a suggestion on some bus bars. I am using 1/2" x 2" aluminum bar stock from Online Metals works great increased battery bank efficiency no warm cables signaling large amounts of lost power. Good old Ohm's Law for the win for the efficiency gains on big buss bars. P (watts) = I2 (amps) x R (Ω)
Don't think Sean is worried about power loss for that power supply. For large battery banks its a fun math experiment for even small differences in cable length.
Just saw my GS invert being load tested on you tube. Looking good, at 1500w only useing 74 amps I think he said, that isn't bad, thats about 25a to every 500w. and I stay under 600w most of the day. So my 60a and 40a solar chargers might have a chance on recharging my bank. Will still have to top it off maybe once or twice a week untill I get enough panels up to make up the diff of lost during the night.
88% isn't bad. He mention something about some kind of update, must be some numbers off, cause he said the inverter saying 1300w and his thing is showing 1500w.
Frankly having two inverts is going to be over kill for me during the summer time, unless I really push it. Looking at putting my current water heater on a timer, though will look at the data and see how much it runs during the day, might be best to just leave it, and save up for a heat pump model, I just blown the money for that yesturday for those 250a battery bank. couldn't pass that deal up.
He mention something about some kind of update, must be some numbers off, cause he said the inverter saying 1300w and his thing is showing 1500w.
Yeah, this has sorta been mentioned on another thread by @waterman, here:
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Seems that I may need to adjust which register I'm reading from, so the output wattage is accurate. Pointless to have an extremely precise power monitor chip and not use it properly 😉.
1 minute ago, The Blind Wolf said:Just saw my GS invert being load tested on you tube. Looking good, at 1500w only useing 74 amps I think he said, that isn't bad, thats about 25a to every 500w. and I stay under 600w most of the day. So my 60a and 40a solar chargers might have a chance on recharging my bank. Will still have to top it off maybe once or twice a week untill I get enough panels up to make up the diff of lost during the night.
88% isn't bad. He mention something about some kind of update, must be some numbers off, cause he said the inverter saying 1300w and his thing is showing 1500w.
Frankly having two inverts is going to be over kill for me during the summer time, unless I really push it. Looking at putting my current water heater on a timer, though will look at the data and see how much it runs during the day, might be best to just leave it, and save up for a heat pump model, I just blown the money for that yesturday for those 250a battery bank. couldn't pass that deal up.
Hey Sid, I still not got my darn remote for the gen. was wondering, I got two power poles, one for one building and my main one for the house, if I run a 110v from hat pole to my gs inverter and put a z wave switch on it, would that be any issue? run the N to the input on the master, then the l1 to the switch then from the switch to l1 input on the master. Might set it up to kick on once a day for a hour, until I figure out a darn way to get a raspberry pie to see 24v, can't find any info on how to setup a sense to monitor a 24v on the pie. I know it can do 12v.
Also, was all that fan noise from the power supply? or was it the Gs inverter? cause at 1500w that thing shouldn't be breaking a sweat.
He said something about haveing both gs inverters balance the load when he puts the heater coils to it? So its going to split the diff? If that is the case, that would be better, since I will have two sets of cable coming off the batter bank, so that would reduce the load on a set of cables, and I would like it to be able to do that, that way if the master inverter is charging the bank, the slave can help out while that is being done.
Also, was all that fan noise from the power supply? or was it the Gs inverter? cause at 1500w that thing shouldn't be breaking a sweat.
Depends on what his temp is in the basement. As I'm in a hot climate, I've set mine to come on a little sooner ( 105° instead of 110° F ) because the temp in the shed is already over 90°. They come on, run for about a minute and then are off for about 5 minutes. Rinse and repeat. When on, they are at 20% power and have not gotten higher than that even when drawing 1/3rd of the rated Wattage.
48 minutes ago, The Blind Wolf said:if I run a 110v from hat pole to my gs inverter and put a z wave switch on it, would that be any issue? run the N to the input on the master, then the l1 to the switch then from the switch to l1 input on the master.
120v input to a panel isn't an issue, as long as there is no L2 connection from the input power source to the output inverter terminals. As long as there are only 2 connections from the input power source, you'll be fine.
49 minutes ago, The Blind Wolf said:Might set it up to kick on once a day for a hour, until I figure out a darn way to get a raspberry pie to see 24v, can't find any info on how to setup a sense to monitor a 24v on the pie. I know it can do 12v.
I seriously doubt the Pi can "see 12v", especially not when the processor I/O runs on 3.3v. Power input may accept 12v, but none of the I/Os will survive a connection to a 12v signal. 5v-tolerant, likely. But definitely not 12v.
Depending on what version Pi you have, it may or may not have an ADC module built in (analog-to-digital converter). Not sure what exactly your setup is.
Regardless of whether the ADC is internal to the Pi, or an external device...you need a voltage divider to reduce whatever the input DC voltage down to the logic voltage of the ADC, in order to be able to convert the voltage to a digital value.
For a 24v setup, you can use a simple setup as follows:
- battery positive -> 100K resistor
- 100K resistor -> 10K resistor, also Raspberry Pi analog input
- 10K resistor -> battery negative
Basically, 2 resistors in series across your battery, with the Pi connected to the middle. And note that the Pi must have the same ground as the battery negative. This will max full scale (3.3v on the Pi) at approximately 37v on the batteries.