6 kw Inverter Physical Specs

Yes you can hang it like that, that is how my two will be hung on the wall.  Just remeber they are not light weight. so mcake sure you got it attached to studs.  I'm taking a sheet of plywood, attached dirtly to studs, then once I get the inverters, will lay it on top of the play wood, drill all my mounting holes, then run stainless steel bolts and nuts in each mounting hole, then reattack the playwood on the wall witht he bolts sticking out, then place the inverter onto the bolts then use a locking washer and nut to attach to the play wood, this will give it air room between the playwood and inverter.

My batt hook up will be on the top, since that is where the heat will be coming out of, with my bus bars being on one side of the two inverters and the two breaker lines will be on the bottem in a  conduit going to each one of the inverters.

  My batts will be on one side of the room to start with on built shelves  The other side will have the charge controllers and other items as needed.

19 hours ago, wpg205 said:

Secondly, will the orientation of the inverter matter? I am thinking about hanging it on the wall, with the "bottom" flat against the wall with the inverter attached vertically (i.e., the longer dimension of the inverter hanging vertically). Is this ok?

Orientation of the inverter does not matter...although it may be a bit difficult to use the LCD in a sideways config 😉.  There's a setting to flip the LCD 180 degrees, but not 90/270 degrees...a bit hard in the code for that!

19 hours ago, wpg205 said:

Firstly, do we know what the size dimensions are? I'm trying to plan my setup.

Chassis is 550mm long, 270mm deep, 190mm tall.  Sorry, I desperately need to write a user manual, but that stacks on the long list of things yet to be completed...!

11 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Orientation of the inverter does not matter...although it may be a bit difficult to use the LCD in a sideways config 😉.  There's a setting to flip the LCD 180 degrees, but not 90/270 degrees...a bit hard in the code for that!

Chassis is 550mm long, 270mm deep, 190mm tall.  Sorry, I desperately need to write a user manual, but that stacks on the long list of things yet to be completed...!

I just printed out the WiFi board manual to get started with. I know there are a good many things that also need looked at but it is a starting point. Going to have to move some batteries around in the shed as it does not look like it will work on the shelf that the PJ inverter is on. And as the LCD isn't on the side, it has to be on the lower shelf where two 12V 100AH Lead-Acid batteries are.

10 minutes ago, Waterman said:

And as the LCD isn't on the side

Same as a PJ inverter.

10 minutes ago, Waterman said:

I just printed out the WiFi board manual to get started with.

That should be a good start; I need to update that and incorporate it into a GS inverter manual--there have been quite a few changes.

28 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Same as a PJ inverter.

 

That should be a good start; I need to update that and incorporate it into a GS inverter manual--there have been quite a few changes.

What LCD screen? 😜

57 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Orientation of the inverter does not matter...although it may be a bit difficult to use the LCD in a sideways config 😉.  There's a setting to flip the LCD 180 degrees, but not 90/270 degrees...a bit hard in the code for that!

Chassis is 550mm long, 270mm deep, 190mm tall.  Sorry, I desperately need to write a user manual, but that stacks on the long list of things yet to be completed...!

That's 25" long by 12" wide on the mounting flange by 9" high for us folks that hate metrics. 🙂

Hmm 25: long 12: wide. . . I forgot what my PJ 8k was, I think it was as long if not longer.  How many mounting hols on the side?  At least that gives me a idea of what size sheet of wood to cut.  Looks like I'll do a 30:x32:  That should give me enough room to mount the bus bar on the side of the inverter.  Since it warming up heree, I'm already working outside, so will go pull the sheet of wood and cut it down to size.  I got to hole cut two holes on the side of the house to run conduits to make it look nicer then wires going into the small holes :P.  Then go get some ground cat blocks and lay a spot of the gen to be sitting.  Oh boy so much fun, and still no news on when I'll get the toys.  At least I'll be ready to rock and rool the day they show up. . . 😛

4 mounting holes total in the flanges.

PJ 8k chassis is longer, but narrower and shorter than the GS chassis.

I wish I could do something with the five inverters I got.  1 8k pj, 2 3k 12v what ever brands, they worked with no issue, they actually worked better then the PJ did when running stuff. even at 3k loads.  1 6k go power modfied 12v and 1 3k modfied go power. . .  I do got a 500watt energizer invert here, works good, lol.

I thought about running a 12v lead battery bank with the 15A solar charger I got and put a 4A 24v charger to kind of charge the bank, but, 4A is a drop in the bucket.  and most 24v chargers are just way to expesive and I think they highest charge rate I seen was 75a and it was Victron charger.

 too bad I can't take one of the inverts and rip the coil out and some how modfie it to push over 100A 

A beefy 30V+ power supply on the input of a MPPT controller is one way to charge a nominal 24v battery.  The main requirements are that either the power supply has a current limited mode, ie when presented with an overload it limits rather than turns off, or that the current the charger can produce exceeds the power the controller can provide to the battery so that the power supply is never overloaded.  Some elcheapo MPPT controllers have been known to blow up when presented with a current source greater than they can handle, but even makeskyblue chargers manages it safely.  Definitely do not do this with a PWM controller.

so I can take a 60a make sky blue controller and throw a 30v adaptor to it?  how many amps do I need to be able to run a 60a?  I'll order one tonight then lol.

MPPT controllers convert the incoming volts/amps to what ever the battery charging is set up for so the input amps depends on the input voltage.  Let's assume a 24V lifepo4, so the peak battery voltage is around 29.2V.  60A x 29.2V = 1752W / 36V = 49A so the DC power supply would have to be capable of 36V at 50A continuous.  If you have a current limited 36V power supply you can use a much lower current as the power supply won't turn off (or shouldn't!), it'll just lower it's voltage when the charger overloads it.  That will allow the charger to find the maximum power point which will be close to 36V.  If the power supply shuts down and restarts due to overload the charger will do a normal sunup startup again and an on/off cycle will repeat indefinitely until something blows up.

I have a cheapie lab power supply (its not really a lab power supply, at least by my standards).  It does up to 30V, 10A, about 300W.  If I hook that up to a MSB charger with a 12V battery it ends up putting most of the power into the battery.  30V is marginal for a 24V lifepo4 with a MSB charger running firmware 118 or higher from my tinkering.  It tends to have trouble staying in charging mode.  They seem to have added a 6 volt guard to overcome the stuck in mode 7 problem v117 had.

Realistically, how much power do you want to put into the battery?  Old server power supplies can be bought off ebay and the like, similar idea to what Sid set up for Sean, for not a lot of money.

If you dig up a power supply and post a link I can take a look at it to see if its feasible it would work, but obviously if you go ahead and buy it it would be at your risk alone. 🙂

Well I saw this on amazon S-350-60
DC Output:60V 5.9A
Wave and Noise:300mVp-p
Inlet Stability:±0.1%
Load Stability:±0.3%
Efficiency:86%
Adjustable Range:54.5V~67V
AC Input Voltage:93~132V/176~264VAC Slected by Switch
AC Input Current:3.6A/115VAC 1.8A/230VAC

not sure what to look for on ebay on the power rack thing sid got for sean, I probley get something that is not right lol.

I figured if I can charge a 12v system during the day, then have the computer controlled outlet kick on at say 8 P.M. and send the power to the charger, until the 12v batt is run down till the inverter cuts off.  I would use a 3k inverter. so that have to be factored in.