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also, my solar setup right now is 60v. useing 3 100w panels. 1600w in total at 60v to my sky blue controller, that is on on arry I got going right now.
Well I saw this on amazon S-350-60 DC Output:60V 5.9A Wave and Noise:300mVp-p Inlet Stability:±0.1% Load Stability:±0.3% Efficiency:86% Adjustable Range:54.5V~67V AC Input Voltage:93~132V/176~264VAC Slected by Switch
This one would be voltage regulated rather than current limited. It'd end up in the on/off cycle I described.
There's no need to get a 60V power supply but it does lower the current required to make up the amps on the battery side. 60x5.9/29.2 = 12.12 amps. If you are aiming for a battery charging current under 60A you will want a power supply that says it has adjustable current limiting, or says it does current limiting at some fixed point. If it doesn't mention limiting specifically and it's power output results in < 60A on the battery side it's not really what you are after.
This one would let you do full power, 60A on the battery side, just. It uses 230VAC with a fair window so it should be happy with your 220/240VAC supply. If nothing else it'll give you a guide on what to look for.
Tight edit window on this forum 🙂 As a note, hooking up a server power supply is not straight forward plug into wall sort of thing so if you aren't comfortable poking things to work out how to turn them on via their connectors this probably isn't for you. Sid might be able to offer some more advice in this regards.
Hey Sid. Fooling around with my 3d printer, and well, you mention about covers for the gs inverter. Do you happen to have it already design? maybe in a STL file format? I should be able to print it off with no issue with this printer I got, its can print up to 8.9" wide, depth, and 250mm high. and guess what I got Grey pla lol. Got other type of colors coming in, got a project that going to probley take a month just to print off. but if I can print off the gs covers, then I'll do that before I start on the big project.
7 hours ago, The Blind Wolf said:Hey Sid. Fooling around with my 3d printer, and well, you mention about covers for the gs inverter. Do you happen to have it already design? maybe in a STL file format? I should be able to print it off with no issue with this printer I got, its can print up to 8.9" wide, depth, and 250mm high. and guess what I got Grey pla lol. Got other type of colors coming in, got a project that going to probley take a month just to print off. but if I can print off the gs covers, then I'll do that before I start on the big project.
Huh?
There's a metal output box that covers the AC output terminals on the 2nd revision inverters--but that also requires a different end panel. So not something that can be run with a 3D printer.
Definitely no STL files. 2D sketch if you're lucky.
Huh?
Well drats, so I got to make a cover for it my self. Fine then. I'll make it look like a pair of greys stairing at you from the door when you open it.
I don't understand what you're referring to with "covers." First run inverters have a metal shield over both ends (PJ stock, and I'd just as soon rip it off)...2nd run will have an AC output box over the AC output terminal block...and we might later switch to covered DC terminals, but that hasn't happened as of yet.
6 hours ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:I don't understand what you're referring to with "covers." First run inverters have a metal shield over both ends (PJ stock, and I'd just as soon rip it off)...2nd run will have an AC output box over the AC output terminal block...and we might later switch to covered DC terminals, but that hasn't happened as of yet.
Ah so the ones I'm getting will have a metal cover over the connections? I was thinking of a cover to cover the connections so I, my self don't brush against them by mistake and well, get a shock of my life. which by now, 240v and 120v just tickles me, 12Vdc bites and burns me. 😛
240v and 120v just tickles me, 12Vdc bites and burns me. 😛
You're the Benjamin Button of electricity then.
Ah so the ones I'm getting will have a metal cover over the connections? I was thinking of a cover to cover the connections so I, my self don't brush against them by mistake and well, get a shock of my life. which by now, 240v and 120v just tickles me, 12Vdc bites and burns me. 😛
Don't feel bad, I can't touch our Sunbeam toaster. I feel the leakage thru it and me to the ground. Low enough that it won't trip a GFCI but high enough for me to feel.
Oh, thats nothin, I got a kitchen aid while mixing I can get a stimulating charge tuching the metal parts. I once had a trailer that I lived in, if it rain you did not touch the metal, other wise you ended up being the ground. come time find out, there was no grounding attached to the trailer, after putting agrounding rod down and wire it up, never had the issue again.
Matter of fact, about three weeks ago, one of my grow tents, flooded, due to a stupid atuo watering system decide to dump 10 gal of water into the tent, and I was bending over when I noticed water, and by the time I ntoiced there was water, I was already haveing 120v going up my hand to my other hand, cause I had a infared heater in the tent, and the safty switch was under the water line, which on a heater those switch are wired directly to the power in. Either way, I felt a million dollars after that happen.
Oh, thats nothin, I got a kitchen aid while mixing I can get a stimulating charge tuching the metal parts. I once had a trailer that I lived in, if it rain you did not touch the metal, other wise you ended up being the ground. come time find out, there was no grounding attached to the trailer, after putting agrounding rod down and wire it up, never had the issue again.
You still had the issue, but you covered it up. Metal mixers and trailers aren't live by design or just because. When things are shocking you it's because there is a fault somewhere. Grounding helps protect you, but the real solution is to find and remove the fault.
On 4/5/2021 at 6:12 PM, Sid Genetry Solar said:Chassis is 550mm long, 270mm deep, 190mm tall. Sorry, I desperately need to write a user manual, but that stacks on the long list of things yet to be completed...!
On 4/5/2021 at 7:11 PM, Waterman said:That's 25" long by 12" wide on the mounting flange by 9" high for us folks that hate metrics. 🙂
It's actually 21 5/8" long, 10 5/8" wide, by 7 1/2" tall (I used https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/cm_to_inch/ ). Waterman, I think you used 2.2, which you divide kg by to get lbs, instead of 25.4 mm in an inch.
Sid, what is the weight?
1 hour ago, Baz said:Sid, what is the weight?
Don't actually have one to weigh, but I believe the shipping weight of a 6kw GS inverter is close to 65lbs.
1 hour ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:Don't actually have one to weigh, but I believe the shipping weight of a 6kw GS inverter is close to 65lbs.
Is the 3kW version any smaller and/or lighter?
Thanks.