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Isolating the Neutral

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(@chg_coin)
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Posted by: @sid-genetry-solar
Swapping T-L1 and T-L2 should fix it

The error message seems to appear even if I swap them?


   
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(@sid-genetry-solar)
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Can you explain/show what was changed?


   
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(@chg_coin)
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1 minute ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

Can you explain/show what was changed?

The only thing I changed was my 120V generator over to 220V.  When before it was on 120V the generator had only read 80V, then when you guys had explained that my inverter had shipped 240V only I made the switch to my generator.  This error message presented, so I swapped T-L1 and T-L2 and the same error occurred - though I didn't hang around very long to see if that was an artifact of the old error message?  Is there a way to reset it to find out?  How can I diagnose?


   
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(@chg_coin)
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image.png.5f2c264eb2ee5bec1577f2d1d0067342.png

And of course I removed the Neutral from the 120V configuration before and replaced it with H2 to make 240V


   
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(@sid-genetry-solar)
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4 minutes ago, CHG_Coin said:

The only thing I changed was my 120V generator over to 220V.  When before it was on 120V the generator had only read 80V, then when you guys had explained that my inverter had shipped 240V only I made the switch to my generator.  This error message presented, so I swapped T-L1 and T-L2 and the same error occurred - though I didn't hang around very long to see if that was an artifact of the old error message?  Is there a way to reset it to find out?  How can I diagnose?

Reading wrong on the input voltage is a calibration issue (obviously it won't switch to the input signal if the voltage is wrong)...one that I sorta expected I guess 😉.  I have a prototype board on my desk that ditches those terribly non-consistent optos in favor of a voltage sense transformer, which should solve these calibration problems.

Any error is reset by a power cycle (power switch off, then back on again)...there are no persistent/fatal error messages.  If an error message reappears after power cycle, it was retriggered.

 

The inverter should run in normal mode (try disconnecting the AC input lines to check) without any error (helps to have a small load on it to check).  If it errors out with "XFormer Polarity" now, then swap the T-L1 and T-L2 internal terminals back to how they were--there may be some unexpected interaction with your whole system setup causing it to somehow measure reverse power flow.

 


   
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(@sid-genetry-solar)
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TBH it's quite difficult for me to figure out what's going on when I really have no idea what's going on with the inverter / setup / modifications.


   
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(@chg_coin)
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Posted by: @sid-genetry-solar
The inverter should run in normal mode (try disconnecting the AC input lines to check)

It does, still runs fine in normal mode.  Just not able to hook my generator up to it.

I hadn't really touched any settings yet.  I think I turned up the trigger voltage on the battery, that's about it.  

I'm proceeding slowly and with caution, with any advices you can offer.


   
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(@sid-genetry-solar)
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So you have not opened up the inverter's case?


   
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(@chg_coin)
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1 minute ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

So you have not opened up the inverter's case?

That's correct.  

If there was a reverse polarity event, would it have fried something causing the error to persist in spite of switching T-L1 and T-L2 back?  That's the only thing I can think of given my lack of knowledge of what's going on inside the unit...

Alternatively, maybe you guys shipped me a 120V in unit and not a 240V in unit?  IF it was working before @ 120V but "Reading wrong on the input voltage is a calibration issue (obviously it won't switch to the input signal if the voltage is wrong)" that would explain why it worked but would not charge the batteries on 120V?

Just trying to think out loud...

 


   
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(@sid-genetry-solar)
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1 minute ago, CHG_Coin said:

If there was a reverse polarity event, would it have fried something causing the error to persist in spite of switching T-L1 and T-L2 back?  That's the only thing I can think of given my lack of knowledge of what's going on inside the unit...

No.  We were on completely separate pages...the T-L1 and T-L2 terminals I was referring to are internal to the inverter, where the transformer connects to the control board.  I figured you'd opened it up to change the voltage, and maybe mixed some of the wires up...

But if it hasn't been opened up, that puts a completely different spin on things...I was barking up the wrong tree.  As you discovered, switching the output O-L1 and O-L2 terminals won't change anything.

3 minutes ago, CHG_Coin said:

Alternatively, maybe you guys shipped me a 120V in unit and not a 240V in unit?

With the inverter running normally (i.e. not connected to a generator), use an AC voltmeter to check the voltage between O-L1 (output L1) and I-N/L2 (input neutral/L2).  If you read 120v, then it's setup for 120v...if you read 240v, it's setup for 240v.  (This is checking the wiring to make sure it's right!)

Next, you can check the last 3 characters of the top line on the STAT screen...it should be "SPB" (240vin) or "SPL" (120vin); this should match the results of the first test.

If these check out correct, then the inverter is setup and wired correctly.  Let me know what you come up with, then we can move to the next step.


   
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(@sid-genetry-solar)
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Posted by: @chg_coin
IF it was working before @ 120V but "Reading wrong on the input voltage is a calibration issue (obviously it won't switch to the input signal if the voltage is wrong)" that would explain why it worked but would not charge the batteries on 120V?

The inverter decides to switch based on the config (i.e. 120v or 240v) AND whether the calculated input voltage is within a specified tolerance range of the config.  Even if it's designed for 120vAC, and you're putting in 120vAC...if it thinks it's 80vAC, it won't switch over (calibration issue).


   
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43 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

With the inverter running normally (i.e. not connected to a generator), use an AC voltmeter to check the voltage between O-L1 (output L1) and I-N/L2 (input neutral/L2).  If you read 120v, then it's setup for 120v...if you read 240v, it's setup for 240v.  (This is checking the wiring to make sure it's right!)

Next, you can check the last 3 characters of the top line on the STAT screen...it should be "SPB" (240vin) or "SPL" (120vin); this should match the results of the first test.

O-L1 (output L1) and I-N/L2 (input L2) reads 2.85V

I-L1 to Ground reads 122.7V
I-N/L2 to Ground reads 115.6V
I-L1 to I-N/L2 reads 2.971V

STAT screen displays SPB


   
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(@sid-genetry-solar)
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OK, something's amiss here...

It looks like the wires to the Input terminal block are reversed.  What do you measure from O-L1 (output L1) to I-L/L1 (input L1)?

I'm expecting 120 or 240v.  2.85v kinda indicates the input terminal block wires are reversed...

Measurements to Ground don't mean too much, as there is no internal ground-bonding...and on the Rev. A.1 board, there are no decoupling ground caps on the AC side anyway.


   
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43 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

What do you measure from O-L1 (output L1) to I-L/L1 (input L1)?

O-L1 (output L1) to I-L/L1 (input L1) reads 0.062V

Is it possible when you guys switched it over to 240V - that it remained half-configured as 120V and half-configured as 240V inadvertently?  Such as if a jumper were not moved but the settings were, vice-versa, or the like?


   
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46 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

I'm expecting 120 or 240v.  2.85v kinda indicates the input terminal block wires are reversed...

Hmmm... what can I do to test?


   
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