Getting GS inverters out as fast as I can

So for split-phase sync of 2 6kw GS inverters, you'd have to specify 120v single-phase output at order; we'll set up the internal wiring as necessary for that.

5 minutes ago, AquaticsLive said:

Good call man, Yeah don't be tempted to parallel 10AWG wires on the mains side.  Not that we are trying to follow code, but makes sense to just don't do it if you can would be nice to do things to code as much as possible to keep things safer.

One catch...

...the output terminal block on the GS inverter will have 2 hots and 2 neutrals, and only 10AWG internal wiring (unless I have Sean helter-skelter off to find some 8AWG and new crimp lugs)...so kinda a problem there for using a single 8AWG wire to the panel...

So what, do I keep the two 25a breakers and the 10 wire and just use  two wires but going on the same channel such as l1 would be a black on one wire and a black on the other wire, then on the slave use white 10 and white 10 and use the bear wire as N  ?  then use a ground cover wire to go between the input and output of the bottem terminal as a communitcation terminal?

have it setup where the first two top terminals are the same l1 that goes to the penal, the next one don be the N to the panel, next one down can be the l2 for the sense wire, and the bottom can be on the master and I guess slave if I decide to get another inverter gen be the l1 for charging on both the inverters. .  if you got it wired that way I can wire it up that way and it should not need a change in 8 wireing.

if sean wants too, he can print off a lable to stick ont he cover showing l1 l1 n sense and l1 gen that way anybody know how its wired if I'm not around :P. 

Yeah that is a bit of a catch.  Really what should be done and what can be done without running to the store. 

Now take off my electrical hat if we are not worried about code and they are done in parallel lets try to be as safe as possible just make sure those screws on the breakers are as tight as you can get them and pull hard on each wire to make sure.  If something comes loose your in trouble.

When  you  get  the 2  GS 240vac split-phase  inverters to daisy chain  correctly  then  I  do not need to order  2  GS  singlephase  110v  inverters  to run in  split-phase sync mode  to  get  12kw  .   I   can  wait  for the GS  12kw  inverter that is 240vac  split-phase .  I  am not  sure what to do  with 2  GS  110vac  inverter  if not connected in split-phase sync mode.  Thank you .  

Yes  it is best to only have one  wire  per lug to each breaker and  make sure it is tight  .   Your  house will  burn down if the neutral wire come loose and you be electrocuted  because the ground wire will be the return to source and is engerized .  The  ground wire may be in #14 romex  and can not handle  50 amps  if no neutral  .   

No worries, its a 3 10. so 3 coated and one bear.

27 minutes ago, The Blind Wolf said:

have it setup where the first two top terminals are the same l1 that goes to the penal, the next one don be the N to the panel, next one down can be the l2 for the sense wire, and the bottom can be on the master and I guess slave if I decide to get another inverter gen be the l1 for charging on both the inverters. .  if you got it wired that way I can wire it up that way and it should not need a change in 8 wireing.

 

if sean wants too, he can print off a lable to stick ont he cover showing l1 l1 n sense and l1 gen that way anybody know how its wired if I'm not around :P. 

Doesn't work that way...

The input circuit can either be used for generator input OR sync feedback.  There is no electrical possibility of using individual input wires for different functions.

We could do the single-phase inverter connector sorta like you suggested (O-L, O-L, N, N, I-L), but it wouldn't come close to matching up with the text that's cutout on the chassis.  Would be a lot more logical to wire it from top to bottom like this:

1. O-L
2. I/O-N
3. O-L
4. I/O-N
5. I-L

With this setup, you'd be limited to just 2 inverters.  Can't "stack" a 3rd one in there...well, maybe on the "master" inverter...but not the other phase.

If Sean could find some #8 wire and some new crimp terminals, we could do single-terminal wiring, otherwise it'll have to be split up on the connector like above.

I'm trying, I'm trying...so much to do, and it's a matter of prioritization.  Will get some new-design FET/mainboards ordered when I can, and see if they solve the issues we've been having--and if so, then we can finally at long last order some 12kw inverters.

Preliminary tests show that the tranny is solid--it didn't even get warm in our tests at 8kw.  Of course, being over 100lbs of metal, it'll take a bit of time to warm up.  Might be able to do upwards of 15kw continuous if unlocked...MAYBE!

That would work, like I siad I can make sure the l1 on both breakers are the black wire for master, then on the slave make sure both wires are Red, then both gets a white wire.

I take it the 4 I/O-n is the sense wire that would be connected between the inverters? and the master would be the 5 IL 

So I can't use the slave as a charger as well if I got another gen invert?

that would work fine, cause I dont' want to go buying 3 8 wire and have to get another breaker and stuff. already spent tha tmoney and don't need to buy more junk 😛

heck, really if you get the grid tie thing working, I could still use another inverter to suplment the two by it self and heck run it at a 48v battery bank for the fun of it.  Will the GS inverts be able to handle if I do throw on a grid tie?  I got three of them laying around 😛 they are the 20v 500w models. started with it at first, they are only 120v output. had to have one on one outlet that woudl feed the l1 and another to feed l2.  I could use those during the day to offset the power drain on my batts to help let them charge.

3 hours ago, AquaticsLive said:

Good call man, Yeah don't be tempted to parallel 10AWG wires on the mains side.  Not that we are trying to follow code, but makes sense to just don't do it if you can would be nice to do things to code as much as possible to keep things safer.

Double wired is done every day and is done per code. Take a look at how power is transported even on HV lines. Not just one wire or two wires but 3 wires per phase. When you get down to pole transformers, it often is doubled wire to get it from the transformer to the weatherhead. Do I like it, not really but I know that in many cases has to be done. Try pushing 1200 Amps thru a single wire at 480 Volts sometime and still being able to make bends. What I hate worse is circuit breaker panels that use 4 100 Amp breakers to get a 200 Amp 240 Volt service. As for 50 Amp, I use #6 wire. And mostly 90°C or 105°C rated wire at that.

Well, will know once Sid finalize what they going to do.  I not sure if a 6 wire will fit in the terminal on the gs inverter.  I know a 10 is able to handle 30a before it starts heating up, which is why I went that route since 25a was the max output per L at 3k per l.  But if they going to have me do one l wire from the gs to the breaker per inverer, 8 would be border line for 50a.  6 I think is rated for what 70a?  I know I got one real thick wire, forgot what size it is, but, it so thick that there is no way it will work in a breaker, its basicly a wire for a l terminal.here is the thing, I can't hook up anything to those on my beaker simple because there is no way to turn off the power before the main breaker, unless you remove the meter. and if I have to go that far, then I'll have to pay $175 for a call for a eletrictian to ocme and $75 a hour to rewire from the meter to the breaker with a outside cut off. my building in the back luckly I got the pole and stuff it has a breaker box outside before it goes into the building. so I can easily work on it without worring about getting fried.

2 hours ago, The Blind Wolf said:

 

 

Well, will know once Sid finalize what they going to do.  I not sure if a 6 wire will fit in the terminal on the gs inverter.  I know a 10 is able to handle 30a before it starts heating up, which is why I went that route since 25a was the max output per L at 3k per l.  But if they going to have me do one l wire from the gs to the breaker per inverer, 8 would be border line for 50a.  6 I think is rated for what 70a?  I know I got one real thick wire, forgot what size it is, but, it so thick that there is no way it will work in a breaker, its basicly a wire for a l terminal.here is the thing, I can't hook up anything to those on my beaker simple because there is no way to turn off the power before the main breaker, unless you remove the meter. and if I have to go that far, then I'll have to pay $175 for a call for a eletrictian to ocme and $75 a hour to rewire from the meter to the breaker with a outside cut off. my building in the back luckly I got the pole and stuff it has a breaker box outside before it goes into the building. so I can easily work on it without worring about getting fried.

I'm a little but not much better off. After Andrew I installed a whole house capable transfer switch. I also upgraded the wires from the switch to the panel inside to 3/0 wire from 2/0 wire that was originally installed. The wire feeding the commercial power to it from the meter also was replaced with 3/0 at that time. The problem is, those wires all have to pass thru the meter case to get to the panel inside. And as the transfer switch is an industrial one, with exposed fuses inside, it has to be kept under lock and key. I missed my chance to do some work in it during the last power outage because I had the generator running on it at the time instead of the emergency circuit transfer switch. The insides of mine look like this one minus the center poles as mine is setup for single phase 240.

In my case, there are 4 200 Amp slow blow fuses in it. And a chicken stick fuse puller in the bottom of the case. I also have a pair of 20kV linesmen's gloves so I can if need be work it hot.