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Hello.
I was going to mount my two GS inverters onto the wall in the horizontal . After a few moments thinking, I've thought of placeing them with the DC faceing down and the AC faceing up. Since the fans blow air from the vents on the side, and the fan on the bottem I think blows out, not sure might blow in?. Will this be fine to do. I just hate the idea of the screen from what I'm told is not going to be able to be rotated. Maybe a person sighted can read it that way? at least to get it setup. The main reason I decided to mount them this way, is one, being thats its only me, I can't lift and hold and try lineing the bolt holes and holding the inver with nuts in my mouth, and yes I said it. and then trying screwing, *cough* them onto the bolts that is protruding out of the plywood. I figured if I go ahead and mount them then juststand the ply would up since I have to cut sheets for them I could lean them then flush them and screw them into the support on the wall to hold the top weight.
Oh boy, I try to keep a straight face while typeing that out, and well, it still sounds so dirty. I left out a lot of other words to try to keep it clean. . . *Tight Lip smirk with raised eye brows.*
It's only as dirty as the people reading it decide to make it be.
Yes, well. Its a real question, wasn't trying to make it sound as such. but, to me, that is the way it came out and if I wrote it exactly the way I was going to post. But, Yes I want to mount them Vertical, . which actually puts the screen near the floor, I guess somebody could read it side ways if they lay down next to it.
3 hours ago, The Blind Wolf said:and the fan on the bottem I think blows out, not sure might blow in?.
Both fans blow inwards. Fan above the tranny vents out the sides.
1 minute ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:Both fans blow inwards. Fan above the tranny vents out the sides.
Where does the rear fan vent out? the side as well? If so, then sweet, then it should cool better that way, since heat rises. Will mount it that way in the morning, and the slave then. I just got to fire up the slave and get the ID off of it and connected to wifi. then hook the DC up all nice and neat, I wish I could find a breaker that could handle a 600A Dc Load, or at least two 300A breakers. any you recommend Sid that is rated for 24v, and take the 0/3 wire I think its that size, its big. I know that for sure.
Where does the rear fan vent out? the side as well?
Vents across the tranny and out the same side vents.
any you recommend Sid that is rated for 24v, and take the 0/3 wire I think its that size, its big. I know that for sure.
For less than 32vDC, almost any breaker will be fine--though I'd pass up the chintzy Chinese turn-flip breakers that flood eBay. (Rumor has it that a lot of them have fake ratings on them anyhow.) It's just >32v (i.e. 36v, 48v, 60v, etc.) that require specialized breakers.
I'm only seeing 300a as the max on amazon. seems that is the max unless you get the t fuse block which I got two of those they are 78 bucks each 😛 they just don't have a switch lol.
got a link to one of them Sid if you don't mind, I can't see the pics and might order something stupid lol.
probley need something bigger then 300a cause that will trip if I max out the inverter. 375a maybe?
I can testify to the cheapie turn handle / flippy breaker things on ebay being crap. For laughs I bought some that claimed to be rated at 250A. Straight out of the packet their on resistance was all over the place. They'd trip at somewhere around 80A once the metal heated up. I have to say somewhere because their trip point was as unstable as their on resistance, as you'd expect. There's plenty of variations and the same warning goes for so called battery isolation switches too. You can get genuine items from BlueSea and the like but most of the stuff on ebay, amazon etc are 100% grade A junk.
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Well did a breaker search on ebay, I'm not paying $4k for a breaker I'll bu a roll of aluminam foil and use it as a fuse before I do that.
I bought a pair of 300a battery cut off switches and well, lets just say they ended up melting with the 12v system. I do got one heavy duty switch that I've had good luck with but its a battery selector I think it was rated at 400. But I've seen it get hot under a big load.
3 pole 300A 65V (max) Blue Sea (so it's real) DC breaker. Not sure if that 300A is all three breakers combined, but the datasheet for it will state that sort of info. 125 yankee bucks.
https://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-7271-Triple-Pole-DC-Circuit-Breaker-300-Amps-White_p_2314.html
8 hours ago, TheButcher said:I can testify to the cheapie turn handle / flippy breaker things on ebay being crap. For laughs I bought some that claimed to be rated at 250A. Straight out of the packet their on resistance was all over the place. They'd trip at somewhere around 80A once the metal heated up. I have to say somewhere because their trip point was as unstable as their on resistance, as you'd expect. There's plenty of variations and the same warning goes for so called battery isolation switches too. You can get genuine items from BlueSea and the like but most of the stuff on ebay, amazon etc are 100% grade A junk.
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That first one is a 12Volt one anyways. The ones I use are either Bussmann 42VDC units or these.
The voltage listed on the ebay / amazon ones is as meaningless as the amperage. Unless you buy it from a reputable seller that states it is the genuine item anything in the style as you have shown is fake junk.
Here's the page for the real Bussman items. https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/electrical-circuit-protection/high-amp-circuit-breakers.html
Here's the datasheet. https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data Sheets/Cooper Bussmann PDFs/18x_Series_DS.pdf