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Hi Sid Tim here again I was about to ask Sean to set up the inverters like you said split sync then I saw a new video Sean made and in it he mentioned of how the 6000 had usable parallel or daisy chain I'm now confused.if it works properly this is why I originally ordered them that way if one went down I would at least have one until I got the other one fixed.if in a tight this would be managable both 240v split phase.am I missing or forgotten something?I will go with whichever one you think is best just kind of got mixed up couple days ago after watching last video.but I would like to fix the filter like blind wolf's just in case.after all these years we have a variety of electronics in the house.i will pay of course if nessasary.question did all hall sensors get corrected to the right side?please don't think I'm being smart.but read in one of your posts.one more question please on my generator regular fully grounded type no information in manual should I keep the neutral and ground disconnected.on generator from the house in case of using during power outage to keep from back feeding to power company working on the main lines ?I know this is long just trying to get everything together.thanks Tim
I saw a new video Sean made and in it he mentioned of how the 6000 had usable parallel or daisy chain I'm now confused.if it works properly this is why I originally ordered them that way
I am confused also after watching Sean again . The parallel or daisy is not usable I think the bee was causing him to say that . I will wait 2 weeks until he test the revC board with the 12kw and maybe it will be less confusing .
Hi Sid Tim here again I was about to ask Sean to set up the inverters like you said split sync then I saw a new video Sean made and in it he mentioned of how the 6000 had usable parallel or daisy chain I'm now confused.
Remember...there's usually a difference between the sales side and the design side.......
The parallel function is sorta workable/usable on the Rev. A.1 / B boards; however, due to hardware shortcomings, I can't recommend it for solid use. Told Sean while I was trying to write the code that it is extremely difficult to handle from a technical standpoint. Split-sync will work with A.1 / B boards, however.
The Rev. C control board with the major changes/improvements to the AC Input section, will make parallel functionality considerably easier. Any further improvements to parallel will have to be via further hardware changes/tweaks.
but I would like to fix the filter like blind wolf's just in case.after all these years we have a variety of electronics in the house.i will pay of course if nessasary.
Doubling the AC output caps to 10uF? That can be done. Doesn't seem to hurt no-load current much, fortunately.
Rev. C boards will have 10uF output filter caps out the gate; however, the earliest I expect to have "C" control boards will be early next month.
question did all hall sensors get corrected to the right side?
I have no idea what you're referring to??
one more question please on my generator regular fully grounded type no information in manual should I keep the neutral and ground disconnected.on generator from the house in case of using during power outage to keep from back feeding to power company working on the main lines ?I know this is long just trying to get everything together.
For Rev. A.1 / B boards, DEFINITELY neutral/ground have to be kept separate. For Rev. C board...doesn't matter.
Not sure how you'd end up "back feeding to power company"...if you want to use the generator as a backup if the grid goes down, you'll need to use a transfer switch.
On 8/20/2021 at 6:21 PM, Sid Genetry Solar said:I do not use a BMS on my system. Properly-rated DC breakers for overcurrent protection, and set the inverter's UVP to a safe discharge voltage for the batteries (i.e. if batteries run too low, it'll shut off). GS balancers on the LFP bank. To each their own, though.
huh? Sid you saying you don't use a bms for you battery pack?
I guess with the gs relay tings that would keep the battery from going over the voltage, as long as it don't fail.
If I didn't have to use stupid bms on my batteries that would save me the head ache of all the problems I'm dealing with. I got one BMS saying it see one cell at 5.65V when its balance with all the others at 3.38 or what ever the charge is at the time.
huh? Sid you saying you don't use a bms for you battery pack?
Yup, no "BMS" battery disconnect. Just breakers and balancers + settings.
Sid Doesn't most transfer switches stop the neutral and ground therefore using the neutral/ground at house panel?if you ran neutral/ground to house it could backfeed to utility worker's right?same with inverters? just like the house could backfeed to inverters also.
52 minutes ago, Tim said:Sid Doesn't most transfer switches stop the neutral and ground therefore using the neutral/ground at house panel?if you ran neutral/ground to house it could backfeed to utility worker's right?same with inverters? just like the house could backfeed to inverters also.
Not to my knowledge. More often than not, Neutral and Ground are bonded together. It's impossible to have power flow with a single potential...for power systems, there always has to be at least 2 lines for power to flow.
As long as the transfer switch disconnects at least L1 & L2, it will stop any power flow from reaching the utility pole.
Not to my knowledge. More often than not, Neutral and Ground are bonded together. It's impossible to have power flow with a single potential...for power systems, there always has to be at least 2 lines for power to flow.
Yeah cause the 240v and 120v transfer switchs I have, the L1 and L2 are the only ones that are wired into the switch part, the nutral and ground goes to the side bar if it has one, my 240v does not, just l1 and l2 input that is it, so that means you have to ground the n and ground at the box it self, or just bundel it up and wing nut it, but not the best thing to do lol.
Well Sid I guess I will try to get in touch with Sean and see if he will rewire the inverters for 120 split sync also can I ask him to replace the filter like he did on Blind Wolf's.im aware it will be 120v ac in charge.48v dc side what did you decide on surge if any, well pump,fair size a/c.i mean unexpected seldom possible.cant save
The can't save was for been having trouble saving to text.i don't have as large a/c-as Sean's.are the letters supposed to be this large when writing?don't know what the symbols at top are for.im a little under par at the meanings of a lot of texting symbols and shortcuts.finaly worked though thanks.tim
Well Sid I guess I will try to get in touch with Sean and see if he will rewire the inverters for 120 split sync also can I ask him to replace the filter like he did on Blind Wolf's.im aware it will be 120v ac in charge.48v dc side what did you decide on surge if any, well pump,fair size a/c.i mean unexpected seldom possible.cant save
We didn't replace a filter on "The Blind Wolf's" inverter, but doubling the existing AC filtration should definitely help with washing machine compatibility.
Surge is limited by the transformer; the 6kw inverters seem to be able to run an 18kw surge...though I'm not about to start emblazoning that on literature without knowing exactly what it can do. (Do know that it can't start Sean's big A/C with the 28kw surge rating.) Due to the transformer / FET ratings working out quite nicely, we have never had a 6kw inverter failure from a surge/overload condition.
Great I had no idea of anything that hi.ok do you need to tell Sean about the filters or do I?thanks a lot for all the info I really appreciate it.
Great I had no idea of anything that hi.ok do you need to tell Sean about the filters or do I?thanks a lot for all the info I really appreciate it.
You can message him about the output filtration; I am not in the order fulfillment process. Increasing output filtration should help.
wish mine had double filter then. will know more after I solder on these balancers and get them on heat sinks, so I can remove one BMS on the system.going to have to order more balancers if I going to get rid of these bms. Sid do you have a bunch of cells for one big battery, or more then one bank? I got to take two of my big ev batts and get bolts welded to the ends so I can attach cables to them, if they can weld onto the ends, then I might take all the others and have them do the same, since these ev batt cells are able to push out 500a, so I can put my big 0/2 wires on it if they can weld the 3/8 bolts on the ends.
Going to wait till Monday and send that remote to you as well, was waiting till you got back home from Sean. Also I sitll can't charge my batt without it sparking a storm on the master.