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I wouldn't ask you to bridge the solder jumper for LiFePo4; it's tricky enough for a sighted person 😉.
I wouldn't ask you to bridge the solder jumper for LiFePo4; it's tricky enough for a sighted person 😉.
Well, good. . . I'll order those heat sink I posted and wire and silicon insulators, far as I know, sean hasn't sent those balancers to me, think he going to put it with the inverts, and I'm guessing some breakers of some kind? Beats me, he asked about that.
10 minutes ago, The Blind Wolf said:But it would work right? I mean drilling isn't a issue, I have a drill press to deal with that part, and I can order some more m6 bolts that are long enough.
Yeah you will be good, going to be a nice setup with that heat sink and the 40mm fans may be a good idea they don't take much power.
14 minutes ago, AquaticsLive said:Yeah you will be good, going to be a nice setup with that heat sink and the 40mm fans may be a good idea they don't take much power.
Well order three of them, I think its one heat sink, so got three, and 50 silcon insulators 40feet of black and read high temp silcon 14awg wire and more RGB 24v fans 😛
1 minute ago, The Blind Wolf said:RGB 24v fans 😛
Gave me a chuckle. This forum sure has made working on projects more fun.
7 minutes ago, AquaticsLive said:Gave me a chuckle. This forum sure has made working on projects more fun.
oH sID, IF YOU NEED SOMETHING 3D PRINTED, AND YOU CAN MAKE THE STL FILE, i HAVE A 3D PRINTER 220X220X250MM AT YOUR NED IF YOU NEED TO DESIGN A CASE OR SOMETHING AND NEED A PROTO TYPE. i'LL BE GLAD TO PRINT IT OUT AND SEND IT YOUR WAY, AND i'LL DO IT IN RAINBOW COLORS JUST FOR YOU. . . 😛
1 minute ago, The Blind Wolf said:oH sID, IF YOU NEED SOMETHING 3D PRINTED, AND YOU CAN MAKE THE STL FILE, i HAVE A 3D PRINTER 220X220X250MM AT YOUR NED IF YOU NEED TO DESIGN A CASE OR SOMETHING AND NEED A PROTO TYPE. i'LL BE GLAD TO PRINT IT OUT AND SEND IT YOUR WAY, AND i'LL DO IT IN RAINBOW COLORS JUST FOR YOU. . . 😛
Will pass on the rainbow colors, but thanks for the offer. Turns out one of my brothers has several 3D printers, so I'm good on that end.
You give us all a laugh though with your RGB fans 😉.
Will pass on the rainbow colors, but thanks for the offer. Turns out one of my brothers has several 3D printers, so I'm good on that end.
wELL, WHAT CAN i SAY, YOU GET 4 OF THEM FOR 12 BUCKS, AND THEY ARE NICE FANS. hERE IS A PIC OF MY 3D PRINTER WITH THE MODDED FAN SHRUD i DID WITH A NEW BLOWER FAN AND A RGB FAN. EXCUSE THE WIREING, 😛
Funny that we own 3-D printers. That was the first thing that I ran on my 500 Watt inverter. And found it could not hack it. But the 3k did. Those things can be power hungry if you need a high temp for good plastic flow and adhesion to the printing plate. Mine is an AnyCubic Delta Kossel Linear Plus with a 230 X 300 printable round area. it also has upgrades to close off the open areas on the column tops and the gaps at the bed so that the plate stays warmer without heating.
3 hours ago, Waterman said:Funny that we own 3-D printers. That was the first thing that I ran on my 500 Watt inverter. And found it could not hack it. But the 3k did. Those things can be power hungry if you need a high temp for good plastic flow and adhesion to the printing plate. Mine is an AnyCubic Delta Kossel Linear Plus with a 230 X 300 printable round area. it also has upgrades to close off the open areas on the column tops and the gaps at the bed so that the plate stays warmer without heating.
I got the new Voxelab model. 220x220x250 heated plate. Modded like heck with everything, just got to change out the power supply fan to make it less loud. its rated at 350w. so it don't pull that much power, everything on it is 24v.
I got the new Voxelab model. 220x220x250 heated plate. Modded like heck with everything, just got to change out the power supply fan to make it less loud. its rated at 350w. so it don't pull that much power, everything on it is 24v.
That is a lower draw than mine. At max load it is rated 32 Amps at 12 Volts. The power supply has 2 output lines to handle it. One 12 Amps and the other 20 Amps. I have thought about powering it directly off the batteries instead of the inverter as it can take up to 30 Volts on the control board.
Curious what charge voltage some of you are planning on, I thinking that it may take a bit of tuning to figure out with voltage drop and well measurement imperfections. Sid's document has the below values when the balance kicks in so think just take those numbers and multiply by cells as a starting point. Well then see if any are getting warm and then if not maybe add a little bit and see if any get warm, then back down a bit. My LiFePo4 batteries hardly ever need any balancing but would like to set charging boards to be right on the edge so if they do need some balancing that they kick in before they get out of balance too much.
◦ 3.55v for LiFePo4
◦ 4.15v for Li-Ion
1 hour ago, AquaticsLive said:Curious what charge voltage some of you are planning on, I thinking that it may take a bit of tuning to figure out with voltage drop and well measurement imperfections. Sid's document has the below values when the balance kicks in so think just take those numbers and multiply by cells as a starting point. Well then see if any are getting warm and then if not maybe add a little bit and see if any get warm, then back down a bit. My LiFePo4 batteries hardly ever need any balancing but would like to set charging boards to be right on the edge so if they do need some balancing that they kick in before they get out of balance too much.
◦ 3.55v for LiFePo4
◦ 4.15v for Li-Ion
I personally have a 16S LiFePo4 bank, with the above balancer values (please note, there is a +/-0.03v potential error due to manufacturing tolerances). I run "bulk" of 56.5v (3.53vpc), and "float" of 56.0v (3.50vpc). Goal isn't to live on the balancers, but that they're there in case they're needed.
At least for LiFePo4, there is no real gain by running a higher charge voltage--it falls right off anyhow as soon as you put any sort of load on it. Li-Ion seems different, with a much flatter discharge curve.
So far in my experience, LiFePo4 after initial balancing just 'touch' the balancers on a day-to-day basis. Li-Ion on the other hand seems to put the balancers to serious work every time they're brought to full charge.
I personally have a 16S LiFePo4 bank, with the above balancer values (please note, there is a +/-0.03v potential error due to manufacturing tolerances). I run "bulk" of 56.5v (3.53vpc), and "float" of 56.0v (3.50vpc). Goal isn't to live on the balancers, but that they're there in case they're needed.
Sounds good, so looks like I should start a bit lower than my plan. Glad I asked kind of figured that there may be some tolerances that I need to keep in mind and experience on how they actually work. I hope they don't really need to kick in much my LiFePo4 battery bank has been rock solid, but guessing with age it may need some balancing.
My used BYD modules (16S, lifepo4) start getting out of balance above 54v, so my bulk setpoint right now is 54.4v with float at 54v. That's just to be safe for daily use, and it's what Battery hookup recommended. My solar can put more than 120a into the bank at peak. Don't want to do any damage.
Hoping once these balancers are hooked up I can start gradually bumping up to bulk of 56.5v and float of 56v. At worst I can stay with 54v but would like to do a bit better. With good, reliable, properly working balancing I'm hoping to get a long lifetime out of these batteries.