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Okay, I got my balancers yesturday. Uhm, I don't see no place for the heat sink. . . I think I feel the pads, not sure, I feel looks like two metal square in the center of the blank I guessing its the back and the other sides has some kind of squre thing and the bottem of where I think the pads are is the program chip. . . I don't see any mounting holes at all.
First off, you need to find the (rather large) TO-247 main transistor. It's about 5/8" wide by 3/4" tall; at the top center of this device is the heatsink mounting hole (roughly 4mm diameter).
The PCB is flat-level with the top of the main transistor if held right-side up, transistor mounting hole "12 o'clock". Note that the PCB does not extend all the way to the top of the transistor.
The LCD is at the 6 o'clock end of the PCB, mounted on top of the PCB. (The MCU is below the LCD and can't be felt.)
With the transistor mounting hole at 12 o'clock, the PCB directly to the left of the transistor (9 o'clock) is battery cell positive, and the PCB directly to the right (3 o'clock) is battery cell negative. (There are no parts on these "legs" of PCB.)
If you feel a row of pads, that's the underside of the PCB, and that's the LCD's leads.
Oh just felt the center of that thing in the middle I feel the hole there, is the heat sink go on the square object?
Yes, that's the main transistor. Entire back needs to contact a large heatsink--but be electrically isolated if more than one balancer is on the heatsink.
I thought that was the display I think I got ones without display. just the big square thing and the chip is all on mine.
All of the current run of balance shunts have LCDs.
Ah, gotyah, odd, its almost like I could put a gater clip but, your saying the bottem pads are for the lcd, so I guess that would be a nono. . 😛 Cool, got the bolts and after I find my poor soldering gun, I'll give it a shot.
These are the Li 7s version right?
Ah, gotyah, odd, its almost like I could put a gater clip but, your saying the bottem pads are for the lcd, so I guess that would be a nono. . 😛 Cool, got the bolts and after I find my poor soldering gun, I'll give it a shot.
Yes, you can use a gator clip on the battery input pads--there is nothing directly on the underside of the PCB, not even a ground plane.
The row of pins (12 of them) is the LCD, that's not the battery input.
Battery input is the exposed copper pad to directly to the left and right of the transistor. Left is positive, right is negative--this is with the mounting bolt hole upwards, LCD downwards.
And yes, these are the Li-Ion 4.15v shunts.
Ah, so the LCD is the long chip thing that I thought it was. okay, feels like a chip more then a lcd, must be one of the LED LCD not the old fashion kind. so the coper pad is wrapping around then?.
1 hour ago, The Blind Wolf said:Ah, so the LCD is the long chip thing that I thought it was. okay, feels like a chip more then a lcd, must be one of the LED LCD not the old fashion kind. so the coper pad is wrapping around then?.
LCD is a standard STN (supertwisted nematic) LCD. Instead of zebra or FPC connections, it has solder pins.
The LCD is mounted on the top of the PCB, and it is located at the bottom end of the PCB. Transistor is at the top end of the PCB. Cell positive connection is the PCB section on the left side of the transistor, cell negative is the PCB section on the right side of the transistor.
42 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:LCD is a standard STN (supertwisted nematic) LCD. Instead of zebra or FPC connections, it has solder pins.
The LCD is mounted on the top of the PCB, and it is located at the bottom end of the PCB. Transistor is at the top end of the PCB. Cell positive connection is the PCB section on the left side of the transistor, cell negative is the PCB section on the right side of the transistor.
So the heatsink is going to be on the backside and the lcd in the front?
So the heatsink is going to be on the backside and the lcd in the front?
Yes. Oriented transistor mounting hole "top", LCD "bottom".
If you have an electrician coming by today, it might help if they could describe to you how they see the balancers. The battery inputs are clearly marked on the silkscreen, so they might be able to give you a head start?
Remember that the transistors must be electrically isolated from the heatsink with TO-247 mica/silicone insulators--that is, if there's more than one balance shunt per (non-touching) heatsink.
1 hour ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:If you have an electrician coming by today, it might help if they could describe to you how they see the balancers. The battery inputs are clearly marked on the silkscreen, so they might be able to give you a head start?
Remember that the transistors must be electrically isolated from the heatsink with TO-247 mica/silicone insulators--that is, if there's more than one balance shunt per (non-touching) heatsink.
well, its going to be one heat sink per balancer, and I'll probley use two or three insulators 😛 Yeah my friend is supposed to show up here shortly, so will be shutting down the GS and hooking them up to the main. Just got donw installing one panel on my one array and rewired it to 100v 3 string 1500w for my 60a skyblue.
well, its going to be one heat sink per balancer, and I'll probley use two or three insulators 😛 Yeah my friend is supposed to show up here shortly, so will be shutting down the GS and hooking them up to the main. Just got donw installing one panel on my one array and rewired it to 100v 3 string 1500w for my 60a skyblue.
The fewer the insulators the better--these shunts get VERY hot. They need electrically isolated, but not thermally isolated.
Was just seeing if anybody I know somebody says they could do cad work for STL files. Was wondering if they could make a case for the balancer? Have the front with the one hold for mounting to the front, will use a metal spacer to keep the PLA from touching the back of the resister, have where the display is in front, then wraps around about two inches, for a normal size heat sink, with a 40x40 mm mounting fan spot with two holes on one sid eand the other side same thing for the two TX wires and the power wires. and maybe have it where theyu can interconnect side by side maybe on the back side since that is going to be the best place to have that due to the area. would be nice if you could put mounting brackes over the fan area on top to push away from the wall to allow air flow for the fan and have the bottme of the fan aprt have a vent to allow air out, maybe on top as well. If I could see, I would do it my self lol. cad isn't blind friendly.
I'm now on my 18650 cells, soldering wires between the moduals, and as well as putting my balancers on each. Have to cut and drill each heat sink. I'm at a lost on how this going to work as far as cooling them. since I'll have seven hot items. I'm makeing the heat sink a bit taller so I can have a mounting hole on the top of the balancers. Thinking of useing some L brackets to hold them on a board so I can some how mount a fan to blow over the sinks. if I can get the tempture contrtoller working. Hey sid, idea on a new thing a small relay switch that triggers when the balancer is active have tow soldering pads or two pins and I cand take and use the pin out to a relay that is set for the voltage of my battery bank to turn on the fan when the relay on the balancer kicks on. that will get rid of having to use a tempture controller.
<a contenteditable="false" data-ipshover="" data-ipshover-target="/profile/3-the-blind-wolf/?do=hovercard" data-mentionid="3" href="/profile/3-the-blind-wolf/" rel="">@The Blind Wolf
i can help you modify STL files if u still help.
<a contenteditable="false" data-ipshover="" data-ipshover-target="/profile/2-sid-genetry-solar/?do=hovercard" data-mentionid="2" href="/profile/2-sid-genetry-solar/" rel="">@Sid Genetry Solar
Are there any balancers for sale At the moment? Or are you willing to sell the gerber files?
Last I know, there are still balancer for sale on the main web site. I'm fixing to order a set of them now I need more.