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I got a 24V U-power 6000W LF inverter off ebay a few years ago for parts hoping it was just blown fuses or mosfets. It looks to be a Power Jack. Two of the mosfet boards are blown as well as the driver board. The control board had two transformers that were connected with wires as they weren't the right size and one was completely broken off. I ordered the control board for $95 from PJ thinking it included the driver board but they sent only the driver board so I returned it. The website has a lot of broken links so I can't get a manual or order just the driver board which seems to only cost $19. My plan is mostly for learning, testing and to have a backup.
First question, is there is a source for driver boards and these transformers on the control board and a place to download the manual? I can fix the mosfet boards and can try using these existing transformers on the control board.
Second, what is involved with switching over to 48V? I see some jumpers but is there anything that needs to be switched out? My current inverter is a 24v hybrid at 120V which runs my living room off a 100AH battery bank. Once I get the batteries I plan to get a 48V split phase that can run the whole house except for A/C, stove, dryer, WH, etc.
Third question, can I fully populate the mosfet board and add a second capacitor to the main board to get a little more headroom out of this inverter? What other mods have been done to units like this can I do?
First question, is there is a source for driver boards and these transformers on the control board and a place to download the manual? I can fix the mosfet boards and can try using these existing transformers on the control board.
Jiminey crickets, what a mess! This is a recent PJ build, as judging by the heavy-ish negative battery wire to a screw terminal on the mainboard and the v11 control board. (They used to use 4-8 strands of much thinner wire soldered directly to the mainboard.)
The one transformer that's completely broken off is the main DC SMPS transformer. It unfortunately for you is a completely custom transformer--and for whatever wild reason, they apparently have a new shape/size of that transformer, and did an awful bodge job to cobble it onto the control board. (This transformer has 3 isolated 12v taps, and one -12v tap to provide a +/-12v supply for their nonsensical op-amp circuitry.)
The other transformer is an AC current feedback transformer; for practical purposes, this can simply be ignored/bypassed. Unit doesn't appear to have an AC input relay, and the only function that could use it would be charge anyway. (It's also a custom spec...you won't be able to find it "on the shelf" from any parts supplier.)
I found a PJ manual for download somewhere (can't remember where!), but can say that it doesn't provide you any pertinent info anyway--and it's for version 3.6 boards anyhow. Considerable changes in the time since!
Source for parts...since Sean is no longer the USA PJ repair center, he no longer has access to parts and supplies. If you can't get it out of PJ, you're kinda in a bit of a pickle. I've got a couple odd parts here and there--plus some redesigned "improved" designs if nothing else--but it's a PJ ;-). Great starter inverter...if we can get it to run!
Part of the fun of a PJ is that the driver board isn't fully isolated, so it's possible (but not common) for damage to go upstream from the driver board. I have one board in my junk box with a hole blown right out of the main CPU.
Second, what is involved with switching over to 48V? I see some jumpers but is there anything that needs to be switched out? My current inverter is a 24v hybrid at 120V which runs my living room off a 100AH battery bank. Once I get the batteries I plan to get a 48V split phase that can run the whole house except for A/C, stove, dryer, WH, etc.
A few things...
- The jumpers adjust a lot of resistor dividers and such all regarding the battery voltage. They're at the "24" setting now; "48" would be on one of the two ends, but I can't specifically recall which one ;-). Would have to look closer.
- The MOSFETs need to be 100v (PJ has used NCEP039N10 or RUH1H150R or even HY3810 in the past without any rhyme or reason). Use of 60v FETs here is asking for trouble (well, on top of being a bodged PJ, hehe!) due to a lack of headroom.
- The transformer primary needs to be somewhere between 32-36vAC; you can see from the marking that they tested the primary to 15.6v (i.e. ~16v, decent for 24v inverters). Fortunately, the primary winding is on the outside, so this is at least somewhat feasible, if messy.
Third question, can I fully populate the mosfet board and add a second capacitor to the main board to get a little more headroom out of this inverter? What other mods have been done to units like this can I do?
You can fully populate the FET boards and/or add a cap, but the real problem is the transformer winding spec (or lack thereof). Expect 1/3rd the listed rating continuous...before the transformer goes well past 100C and literally melts itself down (that is, if you disable the temp sensors).
First question, is there is a source for driver boards and these transformers on the control board and a place to download the manual? I can fix the mosfet boards and can try using these existing transformers on the control board.
The control board has the driver board . The control board price gone up 100 dollars since last year .
The brand new Powerjack inverter is less than 300 dollars on ebay and shipping is free .
