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it was disconnected from the 24 volt test battery. i am not paralleling the batteries. this was the final hookup to the new 32 cell lifepo4 battery. (4P8S 4cells in parallel first then the series connections)
I turned the inverter on (with no battery attached) and the led dimmed down so i suspect this was discharging the capacitors in the inverter.
i went ahead and installed the Blue Sea battery disconnect switch on the negative end of the battery.
i then installed the class T fuse without any spark.
i did not have to again charge/ pre-charge the capacitors in the 15000 watt inverter, at least i did not , maybe i should have... i do not know. previously on a different inverter i used a resister to pre-charge the capacitors but have never done that with this inverter (the 24-volt 15,000 watt PSW LF SP PowerJack 3 piece SS inverter).
i do now have the Thor's Note Book mounted at slightly below eye level so i can actually read the LCD screens.
when i turned on the blue sea battery switch the inverter started normally and the lights (a small load) came on. no problems.
the spark kind of scared me a bit before as it is a high amperage battery LiFePO4.
now if i can get the solar panels to charge it a bit more.
i hooked up a dedicated LiFePO4 24-volt charger to it from a different inverter(6000watt PowerJack) on a different battery bank to more fully charge the 32 cell battery as i was testing it a bit yesterday. the cell delta are about 10mV so tit is fairly well balanced within the 32cell LiFePO4 battery build.
the 24-volt LiFePO4 charger is a 110 volt charger specific for LiFePO4 batteries so have to run it off 110 from a different inverter/battery bank.
perhaps it was just the capacitor already charged giving me feed back or a normal 24 volt spark during connection. but after i turned the inverter back on and drained the inverter with no battery connected (green LED dimmed out) there was no spark.
at any rate it now has a battery disconnect switch on the negative end of the battery.
1088 Ah 25.2 nominal volt 32 cell battery is a bit scary to me. i have to respect for the high amps. i arced another battery once about 9 months ago (it was like an arc welder to the bus bar and stud but luckily i was able to get it stopped disconnected with a piece of wood quickly)
thanks all.
inverter running and battery charging this morning! now need the solar to work correctly for this battery. 😎
previously on a different inverter i used a resister to pre-charge the capacitors but have never done that with this inverter (the 24-volt 15,000 watt PSW LF SP PowerJack 3 piece SS inverter).
I always precharge before connecting the positive cable from battery bank . One time I forget and touch a 8kwh battery bank positive cable to the inverter pos terminal and sparks fly and sound like a shotgun went off and I thought I blew up the inverter . Good to see you have everything working .
I do not like to see this forum shutdown so I may donate 50 dollars to keep it going till dec . Sid give a lot of useful information.
are they talking of shutting the forum down? seems like it just got started. most businesses have to have another source of income until they get to a point of being profitable.
looks like they are saying use this choke or no warranty! not their fault? hmm? essentially everything i bought has no warranty anyway, but still may be a bandaid along with faster fans, i did note the fans run a lot but are really quiet so it would be hard to notice when they stop working in the 3 piece ss 15000 watt powerjack 24-volt lf sp psw inverter. i have it running on the 32 cell 25.2 nominal volt battery now, got the sbms0 to function a bit better and a couple solar panels giving a charge in the rain (small charge in the rain/cloudy day). it may soon be a 4 piece ss inverter as this choke is in a ss case as well! 😎
Honestly, I'm not convinced that the big choke is going to help that much. But hey, they can do whatever they want.
can you shed a little light on the power fact reading on the powerjack thor's notebook screen for me???🤔
what does it mean?
right now i am only using the 118.7 volt outlets (labeled 110V AC OUTPUT) on L1 no 220 at the moment so i shut off the other 3 breakers on the front of the 15000 watt inverter control box.
not hooked to a ac panel yet. but it will be all off-grid >>>> nothing connected to the grid.
power fact 0.482 at the moment???/???? 118.5V AC Volt
thanks in advance😎
can you shed a little light on the power fact reading on the powerjack thor's notebook screen for me???🤔
Well, with no load on the system, it's awfully hard to calculate power factor. The power sense chip on the screen is likely just calculating this number from the noise on the current sensor.
If you put a purely resistive load on the monitored leg (i.e. space heater / incandescent light bulb), the power factor should go to 1.000 or 0.999.
Note that the "Thor's Notebook" is reading L1 power for the "240v" screen, and Neutral power for the "120v" screen. Loads on L2-N cannot be measured; if you have perfectly balanced 120v loads on L1-N and L2-N, the "120v" screen will read no load.
Please give me diagram on how to connect my u-power 15000 inverter. I don’t have an manual so I would like to know where to connect my solar panels. Thanks
Please give me diagram on how to connect my u-power 15000 inverter. I don’t have an manual so I would like to know where to connect my solar panels
Solar panels are connected to a solar controller and battery and not directly to the U-Power . See MSB on this forum . MSB website has a diagram .
i added a Variac 2000watt transformer plugged into the 110V outlet on the 15k 24-volt lf sp psw inverter just now. then plugged in the surge protector switch to it. then plugged in 2 different led lights, then a 3rd led light. when i turned up the Variac (rotary dial on top of it) to increase the voltage >>> the one led light worked perfect at a lower voltage then the 2nd led light came on at a higher voltage. the second led light would flicker if i turned the Variac down. it seemed to need a higher voltage to work correctly without flickering. the 3rd led light was more like a shop light 48 inch led light that i had some flicker issues with before. so i plugged it in and turned it on and no flicker at all.
so i interpret this as the variac transformer helping to clean up the signal and get the voltage to the surge protwection strip more in a range likeable by the led electronics.
question: what do you think?
sure likely to lose some efficiency but it is all solar pv electricity generated off-grid.
PowerJack 15k inverter 24-volt PSW SP LF: small update>>>>
the fans in the control box run 24/7 in this 15k 24-volt LF PSW SP 3 piece inverter.... but it does not seem to get hot at the moment... just maybe using more power to run the 2 fans in the control box.
the output air is now being utilized to cool the 2000watt Variac transformer i plugged into it; so maybe a bonus for the moment.
i have let this inverter run continuously now for a week or 2 or more?. i have been testing it slow but sure for about 3 months.
more later,
right now it is hooked up to 1000watts of solar panels through the Electrodacus SBMS0 and 2 Electrodacus DSSR20's. the Electrodacus SBMS0 is the BMS(battery management system and the Electrodacus DSSR20's are the solar char controllers which control up to 20 amps of solar each ( i use 2 panels in parallel - so 500watts per Electrodacus DSSR20). they work great and the SBMS0 can control up to 18,000 watts of solar panels. This is a LIFePO4 battery off-grid system. lots more solar PV panels to hook up. slow but sure...
i added a Variac 2000watt transformer plugged into the 110V outlet on the 15k 24-volt lf sp psw inverter just now. then plugged in the surge protector switch to it
Should use a wattmeter with that 110vac outlet where the variac is connected . Make sure that outlet do not exceed the max of the variac 2000 watts or bad thing will happen . Do not ask what will happen just see the review on Growatt inverter using external transformer . Thank you for letting us know what you are doing .
yes i was thinking of plugging in a watt meter. thanks for the reply. once i wire it into the ac panel i will try the variac transformer there as well. the variac transformer has a 20 amp fuse but the small manual says 15 amp output. it does seem to have cured the flicker in the led lights, i moved the watt meters so will have to go seek one out. thanks again.