powerjack 24-volt 15000W lfsp inverter new 5-14-2021 manufacture

put a kill a watt meter on the 15k and also on the 8k inverter. the 2k Variac transformer has very little power usage at the moment and is connected to the 15k 24-volt 3 piece LF PSW Sp PowerJack inverter. will work on the ac breaker box some tomorrow (hopefully) if i can find the breakers I already purchased.

it is amazing how hard it is to locate stuff after you move.

Want to know the real cause of the flickering in your lights?

Regulator oscillation in the CPU.

Yes, seriously.

Running the variac may be either putting a tad more load on the inverter and/or coincidentally moving the inverter out of a "sweet spot" where it oscillates.  As such, with different loads, you'll probably experience flickering at random times, and for seemingly no reason at all.

You can hear such regulation oscillations in the transformer...if it's a clean buzz, or a warbling buzz.  Very visible on a 'scope.

If they ever were "off" at one point, then likely one of the bimetallic thermostats have "stuck" in the on position.  If the fans have only ever been "on", then have you checked for a "fans" switch?  (If so, all it does is bypass the thermostats and hold the fans on.)

it looks like the standby wattage is about 60 watts as the fans run continuously. i have if the Electrodacus SBMS0 is measuring accurately>>> which i think it is. the led shop light is about  a 40 watt load increase. the Electrodacus SBMS0 measures load and PV through shunts connected to it and is fairly precise. 

i ordered a Klein cl700 clamp meter to see if i can measure more things accurately in the future. 

thanks for the replies.

i do not think there is a fans switch. once it was turned on it was only a short time before the fans turned on. 

in my smaller 6k and 8k LF PSW SP inverters, the fan come on and off >> run more as load increases or they get hotter i think, but in this 15k 3 piece inverter the fans run continuously.

i can see a bit more with the Kill-A-Watt meters. 

more later.

Sis: so if the led lights flicker due to oscillation in the cpu >>> (sid says)? ... there is no cure to this problem ?

can one turn up the voltage from the inverter?

would that help?

the kill-a-watt shows 115.6 volts, whereas the thor's notebook lcd screen says 118.6 to 119 volts. on the 24-volt 15k psw sp lf powerjack 3 piece ss inverter

is the voltage too low for the led light?. 

i used my aneng an8008 multimeter and at the 110v ac 220v ac output terminals on the front of the inverter it measures 116 volts L1>N; and 116.1 volts N>L2; so that would indicate a fairly balanced transformer.... correct?

No, there is no solution to the problem--apart from updating the firmware in the CPU.

Yup, that's about as good as it can get.  Should be no problem at all.

Question: the green led inside stays on even when the inverter is off. i think the mosfets are on this board. does this have any correlation to the capacitors retaining their charge? the 1088Ah 32cell 4P8S LifePO4 battery is still hooked to the inverter.

would it be best off turn the battery switch off? i installed a blue seas battery switch on the negative end of the LiFePO4 battery.

if i turn the battery switch off>>>> will the green LED drain down as the capacitors in the inverter drain down?

i have 3 2AWG guage cables now hooked to the front of this inverter, and i turned off the breakers on the front of the inverter. one on L1 one on N and one on L2. i used reds 2 awg for the L! and L2 and a black 2awg for the N (that's what I had on hand).

i do not have the equipment chassis ground wire at this time. 

the AC breaker box is not going to be connected to the grid in any way. kind of like the inverters in RV systems ( i think they may call it floating ground or something as the neutral and chassis grounds do not actually connect to an earth ground rod.

when i turned the power switch to the off position >>>> the fans kept running for maybe 5 minutes >>> my understanding is this is normal and what you want it to do. it was not overheated or anything as far as i know as the load on the inverter was very small. 

thanks for any help!

There's anywhere from 7-11 green LEDs inside a PJ inverter, so it depends where the LED is....

Likely you're referring to LEDs on the MOS boards...and if so, yes, that is showing you that the caps are still charged up.

If you're using the inverter (i.e. on during the day, off at night), I do not recommend turning the battery switch off--otherwise you'll be "blasting" the entire battery system with a huge power on surge every time you turn the battery switch on. 

Loss from those LEDs will run up to roughly 30mA; for your large battery bank, I wouldn't worry about it.

Yup, that's about as good as it can get.  Should be no problem at all.

I  think the 3 box 15kw  transformer is the new  ASL6.5 which is perfectly baanced  and  is good for wiring  L1  N  L2  .  Notice in the US  all  neutral is color  WHITE  and ground is  GREEN  if  electrican do the work .   Neutral  is NEVER fused or connected to a breaker  for safety .   Ground  wire should  be connected  but  how is  always a  problem for off grid  and RV and boat  and solar  and  generator and  need to be explain by a  electrician  .    ALL powerjack  is floating neutral  .  I  talk to a electrican  and he  will not answer  any grounding  question when he see  all my battery and inverter  and run away .  He is scared  for liability  problem .  

i plan to put white tape on the neutral and label correctly.

The L1 and L2 cables i will label as well. totally understand the electricians don't want to touch with the battery liability issue. 

the green equipment case ground i have not addressed this issue yet.

i do not have a actual ground rod for this installed, and it may not be a good idea anyway(not sure on this point).

The array i may put an earth equipment ground out there but I have not done that yet either.

I am trying to locate a spot for the AC 100 amp breaker box. Yesterday I made the 3 copper 6 foot long 2AWG cables with hydraulically crimped tinned copper lugs and some re-arranging to make more space. cable are hooked to the invederter and still need to connect to the AC panel. Again totally off-grid!!!

this is strictly an off-grid build, but want it to be as safe as can be and reliable of course.

the LiFePO4 battery is a 32 cell build using 272Ah Lishen cells in a 4P8S configuration to give a 25.2 nominal volt battery with 1088Ah so it has 3.2x32x272=27,852.8Wh potential capacity and a bit more. it5 has been function correctly for about a month or more without issues at low load.

thanks for any input 😎

the local electric company came one day (about 4 or 5 months ago) and asked to help but there is no net metering and they said they have no solar electric experience with installs so I am still working on it by myself. i told him it was not going to be connected to the grid in any way.

the local electric company came one day (about 4 or 5 months ago) and asked to help but there is no net metering and they said they have no solar electric experience with installs so I am still working on it by myself. i told him it was not going to be connected to the grid in any way.

I  know they are not there to help  .   The  local electric company  came to my house when I  am not home and took the main service panel  apart to look for transfer  switch  but there is none  as i   hide it in the attic .  My solar panel I  hide in back  of the  house .   Keep  working on it by  yourself .      The  20kw  is  new  as  you  are one of the  first  to  win the auction on ebay .   The  6 wires  transformer  L! and L2  will be perfect balanced  and can be wired  L1  N  L2  but do not  tell powerjack .   The  rev11.1  control board  has current limit  like the GS inverter  and will probably  shut down  and not run a heat pump because it sense the  high surge  on start up  and save the FETs .     The new design 20kw  should be a good  powerjack inverter  by looking  at the  protection bracket for the  transformer .   I  would  remove the center bolt and bracket  if it is install on the floor for more air flow .   

Nope.  There has been no significant change in the PJ boards from ~v4-6 through the current v11.1.  Same firmware the whole time, too......

There is an output current sensor going to the CPU, but it's only on L1 (it's one of the transformers mounted to the output board).  Been just this way for years.

That's the "AMG" wiring methodology...split-phase 240 or single-phase 120 depending on the wiring.  If wiring for 240v, just pull "N" from the jumper.

Nope.  There has been no significant change in the PJ boards from ~v4-6 through the current v11.1.  Same firmware the whole time, too......

There is now  almost no review  on powerjack inverter on youtube .   Maybe someone in this forum  will review  AMG inverter and  say how much improve the  new design is .     I   am  hoping the  powerjack engineer  will figure a way  to not blow up the FETs  like a GS inverter that  never blow up FETs  .   Mosfetts amd  mosboard  are going up  in price on ebay  and way too expensive to replace . 

The only changes I'm aware of have been to the transformer, where they reportedly are using more wire on the transformer, as well as (finally!) balancing the 2 secondary phases.  (Have not seen one of these inverters in person yet, so cannot say how much improved the transformer might be.)

Everything else electrically is practically identical to the designs from several years past.  Yes, someone may notice the different "CPU" (87K90) on the v11.1 control boards--but that is purely and entirely due to their being unable to source the  venerable 87K22 anymore.  (The K90 is practically a drop-in replacement, removing any need to redesign the control board.)

Everything else electrically is practically identical to the designs from several years past.  Yes, someone may notice the different "CPU" (87K90) on the v11.1 control boards--but that is purely and entirely due to their being unable to source the  venerable 87K22 anymore.  (The K90 is practically a drop-in replacement, removing any need to redesign the control board.)

I  did not know  they change the  CPU .   I  change   the still  working  rev10.3  control board on my 15kw  powerjack which has the large mainboard  with a new  rev 11.1   control board  and the  4 ton heat  sometime not  start but the inverter shut down after 5 seconds with the red light alarm  and the FETs is still good .   The old rev 10.3  control board  always start the 4 ton heat pump  but had to wait  2  hours   after running the heat pump one hour .