powerjack 24-volt 15000W lfsp inverter new 5-14-2021 manufacture

Likely the transformer current limit SMD "DIP" switches have not been set, causing it to shut down early.  But like you said, it takes 5 seconds to shut down.  To save FETs from destruction, the inverter has to respond in less than a thousandth of a second.

I  better leave the DIP switch alone  as I do not use the heat pump  for the next six months  and your 12kw GS should be ready .  If the powerjack is working  do not try to make it better or it could be worse .   Thank you .

the 15k 24-volt 3 piece stainless steel  inverter has been running on the LiFePO4 32 cell (Lishen 272Ah cells)build for several months now without any issues. I only see it on sale now for 1500 dollars so they are really proud of it now. never on auction any more. so I don't really want to invest that much on a twin one at the moment.

I know it was a major pain to get put up on a shelf ,,, had to get a friend to come help do that. at any rate it is hooked up to a small ac panel running a small load continuously with out problems.

the only thing I note but have not measured is the continual power draw.it runs 24/7 powering a very small load. i hooked up an 2000  watt auto transformer and it seemed to improve the led light flicker I had seen. and also a kill-a-watt meter.

the off-grid solar power shed needs to be bigger. so i will build a bigger one soon.

as I study up on grounding it may be better to leave it a floating ground just like RV's and generators do with solar PV systems now. watch mike holt on grounding with PV solar you tube videos. 

mine is all still a floating ground system.

electricians will likely run away as some have said. 🤔

but then again I have no plans to hook this off-grid build up to their electrical grid.

the green equipment ground is not used at this point either. actually a small attachment point on the front of the case if one needed it. probably a good idea it is outside in the off-grid solar power shed with a lockable door. maybe should wear gloves but no stray voltage noted.

question: that was one of the things i wanted to improve upon was suitable gloves for electrical work. i bought a few cheapo pairs that anyone can buy but not specifically electrical gloves. Any glove suggestions?

37 minutes ago, pilgrimvalley said:

and it seemed to improve the led light flicker I had seen.

LED light flicker is (as I've said elsewhere on the forum) the result of a CPU software voltage regulator oscillation.  There isn't much you can do about it, except dampen it down a bit by happenstance.

I generally don't like to talk about earthing systems since it's a pretty important thing to get right and there's plenty of variation in how earthing is done but for you, you are using LF inverters that have a big output transformer.  That inherently gives you isolation between the input side and output side including DC input.

Add salt as necessary for everything below.

If this was my installation that had nothing to do with the grid I would have the current carrying wires out of the inverter floating, ie not tied to earth in any way.  They go to the supply panel / meter / fuse box and there is where the neutral is declared and tied to ground and the premises internal system earth is derived from.  The inverter chassis is tied to the internal system earth.  Downstream from the panel / meter / fuse box 3 wires (earth, neutral, live/line/active) go to each point of delivery be it a wall outlet or light.  Its important that there is only 1 neutral earth bonding / tie point in the system and that all supply points down stream have a separate earth wire.  If this is not the case RCDs (GFCIs) can't function properly, or perhaps at all.

Youtube threw up a clip from a South African sounding guy this morning about the use of European (really just 230VAC single phase) inverters and adapting them to USA split phase.  This should be mandatory viewing for people in the USA considering this course of action.  I don't know the MPP and Growatt inverters in enough detail to tell but it is possible they have a neutral/earth bond relay which is switched depending on the inverter sensing it can pass current across neutral earth.  That has implications for what he says so don't forget to have that salt handy while watching.  I do know that several models of MPP Solar clearly state there is no isolation between the PV side and the AC side and that simple sentence brings a whole lot of safety requirements which can not be ignored.

On 7/12/2021 at 9:38 AM, dickson said:

 when i complained and made a negative review they no longer allow me to bid on ebay

 

Is  that what  ebay allow the seller  do if  negative review ?   Other  in this forum  say  they  are also  block  in the US  and  from powerjack in China .   Now I better not  make any  more review .   Thank you .  

yes i now have a new ebay account and when i specifically complained about the blocking problem to powerjack they asked what i wanted to buy but never cured their seller blocking on ebay. i posted they renigged and got blocked from the 1st ebay account i had since 2003. shifty they are for sure. i have read on other forums that it is their mentality, not a customer service based mentality but one of deception is their pride. yes, i think it best to temper ones responses/reviews a bit or risk getting blocked without notice.

wonder when sean is going to open his powerjack store?

this was over a 15k 48volt inverter that arrived damaged in a previous purchase where they tried to go outside of ebay where you would have no recourse. ebay specifically said not to do it when i talked to customer service at ebay. but somehow without notice ebay allowed the seller to block me. big money talks huh?

at any rate one has to be careful of their words. lots of snake oil sales people out there.

I have been following sean's youtube videos for a couple years and the powerjack and now gs inverter videos.😎😎

If this was my installation that had nothing to do with the grid I would have the current carrying wires out of the inverter floating, ie not tied to earth in any way.  They go to the supply panel / meter / fuse box and there is where the neutral is declared and tied to ground and the premises internal system earth is derived from.  The inverter chassis is tied to the internal system earth. 

My inverter chassis is tied to the internal system earth  at  the main service entrance / meter  which go to one ground rod   The  neutral  is never fuse and never  connect to  a  breaker  and  is one 100 feet wire go back to the main service entrance  and  is grounded at only one place .   This is a floating  neutral  because it is  not  connect to the PJ  inverter chassis  but is one wire all the way back to the  service entrance ground rod .    Grounding  do not  prevent you  from being shock  or electrocuted because the  breaker may take  8 second to trip  but you will be dead in milliseconds .  Mike Holt talk  about  gronding and bonding and GFCI  to prevent  being electrocuted .  

Grounding is more about protecting the system than it is about protecting you.  If the hot wire comes into contact with the physical earth and enough current flows to damage the wiring the fuse should let go before the wiring is damaged (including insulation damage).

The part of the system that was there to protect the user was the neutral earth bond.  If an appliances chassis is tied to the earth wire the hot wire coming off internally and contacting the chassis will immediately blow the fuse protecting the user.  Assuming the earth wiring is up to the task of carrying the fault current which is why it's really important to use the right gauge earth wire vs fuses and to ensure the earthing system has low impedance back to that neutral earth bond point.

That was all fine and dandy in the age where things had metal chassis that could be used for that purpose and also in the age where people were smart enough to not stick fingers where they don't belong.  Those days are long past with a flood of cheap poorly made things coming out of certain Asian countries and an increase in the number of people that don't know not to do stupid things.  Hence RCDs/GFCIs.

There are also well known fault modes in electrical systems where neutral / earth and earthing won't protect the user while a correctly installed RCD etc will.

the breakers on the AC side (breaker panel box)protect the wires. the 400 amp class T fuses on the DC side protect the inverter from the battery essentially and protect the wires on the DC side.

I have a DC rated blue sea disconnect switch on one 32 cell lifepo4 build (series e, I think on the negative 4/0 cable); I put in after I got a little spark from the 24 volt inverter when trying to do the final fuse connection. the spark kind of scared me a bit to be more careful. so stop -- crimp a few more cables an mount a DC disconnect switch on the negative end of the 1088Ah 32 cell LifePO4 battery. no more spark. it may of been stored energy from the capacitors in the 15k inverter as I  had it hooked up for initial test before the wiring to the bigger battery was completed.

that is why I asked about glove suggestions? i wear glasses when doing the connection and wear gloves but really want to be safe as possible and avoid dumb dumb mistakes.

Mike Holt video on the floating neutral for inverters and generators is to prevent damage to the inverter (or generators if installed - I will not be using noisy generators to charge the LiFePO4 batteries only solar PV panels) as I understand it.

this is being connected totally off-grid and all battery charging etc. is being done with the stored power from the LiFePO4 batteries.

will prowse in a youtube video also talked about floating neutrals from the inverters so as to not cause damage to the components he was working with.

I do not have any GFCI breakers installed at this time. only Square D QO breakers on the AC side (without the GFCI capability). I do agree that the GFCI breakers or outlets would be an improvement to one's safety so they would be an improvement to the design of the AC side wiring.

what I am trying to avoid is any interconnection to the grid -- period. I do not want any noisy generators. I prefer the animal noises on the off-grid farm. essentially rewiring everything to be off grid.

I have no earth ground at the moment, just like an RV system. the AC panel is not earth grounded either. the solar panels are not earth grounded. 

I am still trying to get my head wrapped around some of the electrical issues and complications to ensure a safe system.

I built the off-grid solar power shed to house all the batteries and inverters specifically to keep my autistic daughter from doing something unpredictable and accidentally getting injured. she is an angel but unpredictable at times. I am glad I put in in the separate outside off-grid solar power shed, but it took a lot of time/resources to build and insulate it(money and time well spent though)! 

Many thanks for any and all help / replies. 😎

the 15K 3 piece SS 24volt LF SP PSW inverter has been running 24/7 for several months now. I think since September.

Sean used to do PowerJack "upgrades", etc., but I don't think he is planning to put much time into them after starting the Genetry Solar product line.

17 hours ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

LED light flicker is (as I've said elsewhere on the forum) the result of a CPU software voltage regulator oscillation.  There isn't much you can do about it, except dampen it down a bit by happenstance.

there is a math tutor who talks about phase change oscillations. he said there is no problem with resistive loads as they are in the same phase, both the amp and volts. is this the problem with the LED light flicker you say is not cured by their CPU in the PowerJack inverters? I just trying to learn more about the electronic issues of these LF PSW SP inverters.

so the old inefficient incandescent lights would not have the flicker issues. I see they (incandescent light bulbs)now cost more than the led lights. see what government mandates do to the market. 

the 15K 3 piece SS 24volt LF SP PSW inverter has been running 24/7 for several months now.

Too bad PJ  will sell  the  last  5 wires  transformer  inverter  15kw  on ebay  and now go to the  six wires transformer AMG .

My 5 wires 15kw been  running  good for  2 years  and  a lot longer at less than 4000 watts .   I  done some stupid testing when I first got it  and it blew up the FETs  mainboard LF driver and capacitor .   I  message Sid in youtube  and he  say  to go  one third  advertise  PJ  output  and now  no problem  .    I  never tell the ebay seller or he may block me  from getting parts to repair .