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For the neutral/earth link part unless you had grid AC wired to the inverter's AC inputs there's little you could do that would result in an instant blow up apart from managing to short L1 to L2 or L1 to neutral or L2 to neutral. Even if your PJ had an internal neutral/earth link for some reason that shouldn't result in a blow up if you also did that externally (again assuming nothing on the inverters AC input).
There are people here that persist in using these things, so perhaps one of them can offer some better explanation of why your inverter decided to go foom.
Even if your PJ had an internal neutral/earth link for some reason that shouldn't result in a blow up if you also did that externally (again assuming nothing on the inverters AC input).
There are people here that persist in using these things, so perhaps one of them can offer some better explanation of why your inverter decided to go BOOM .
IF your inverter is a Powerjack then in the USA it is always a floating neutral and NOT an internal neutral/earth link . The connection of inverter in a RV is not the same if you connect to shore power as the RV do not have a ground where shore power has the ground and neutral connected to a ground rod at one and only one spot . It would help if you took pictures of your connection to the breaker and ground . Unless you had grid AC wired to the inverter's AC inputs there's little you could do that would result in an instant blow up on first power up . Sean in youtube managing to short L1 to L2 or L1 to neutral or L2 to neutral on the GS 12kw and did not do any damage . I did the same as what Sean did to my PJ three years ago and do no damage but sound like a shotgun blast .
I fried an inverter. I think. And, I had it replaced by Amazon- and still have not returned the old one. Of course, i never received the replacement, but I have 14 days left to return this and I want to figure this out first so I can decide if it's worth buying another.
Return this inverter if Amazon will give you a free replacement . If this is a Powerjack inverter then it should have a 120 vac oullet in front of the case . There is nothing to figure out . Just plug a night light when you get the replacement inverter and it will work when switch on . The only connection is the 12v positive cable and the 12v negative cable . GROUND Connection is not necessary to test . For RV or Boat permanent connection you need GFCI receptacle to be safe .
This youtube video show improper bonding by the user . Could this cause a liabilty problem for GS inverter and the user is electrocuted by miss-wiring ??
the video was not there??? did they block it???
Yep, gone private. I guess he took too much flack for not really understanding what was going on or possibly that Youtube's stupid classification system decided that he was encouraging dangerous activity in minors, because he demonstrated that sticking a wire into the ground would pass current.
You aren't missing much. Essentially he 'discovered' that you could pass current from a live wire, through an appliance, and to earth and run that appliance if it wasn't particularly current hungry nor voltage sensitive. It's a perfectly normal situation when there is a local neutral/earth join and earth stake (or equiv of). His GFCI tripped when he tried a higher load because it exceeded the trip current of the GCFI, something that really should have told him exactly what was going on.
This neutral/ground bonding thing is too much. I've spent 25 years on job sites, engineering offices, and the internet trying to explain it, and people just blink and keep on talking about a rod in the dirt. If you don't understand how electricity works, it will forever remain a mystery, I'm afraid.
the video was not there??? did they block it???
If you don't understand how electricity works, it will forever remain a mystery, I'm afraid.
Yep, gone private. I guess he took too much flack for not really understanding what was going on or possibly that Youtube's stupid classification system decided that he was encouraging dangerous activity
That is the guy who live a few miles from me !!!!! Too many people like that including engineers who think solar inverter are too dangerous and only be use for camping off-grid and never be connected L1 N L2 to power a house .
On 7/10/2021 at 12:17 PM, pilgrimvalley said:our ac output as follows:
2 ac output socket, output is 110v, also we have hard wire terminal-----L1, N, L2,
L1+L2=220V, L1+N=110V, L2+N=110V
Note: can not L1+N+L2 at the same time!!!
15000W Low Frequency Split Phase
Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter
DC 24V AC 110V,220V 60HZ
With UPS & ATS
With 110V Battery Charger
With 110V & 220V LCD Display Box
AC 110V: 7500W continue power, 30000w peak power
AC 220V: 7500W continue power, 30000w peak power
We separte the control board and the transfomer in two boxes,
so cusotmer will receive two boxes as photos show,
one is the transformer box,the other is the control box
I purchased a 15000 watt just recently, installed it was working fine until I decided to use 240 vac. Didn't realize you must use a external device in order to use 240 so I guess I messed something. Have a question....I purchased it in USA and brought it to Guatemala...now I need to purchase parts and I don't know what needs to be replaced, and do you ship to Guatemala.... Gratefully Carlos Garcia.
On 7/10/2021 at 12:17 PM, pilgrimvalley said:our ac output as follows:
2 ac output socket, output is 110v, also we have hard wire terminal-----L1, N, L2,
L1+L2=220V, L1+N=110V, L2+N=110V
Note: can not L1+N+L2 at the same time!!!
15000W Low Frequency Split Phase
Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter
DC 24V AC 110V,220V 60HZ
With UPS & ATS
With 110V Battery Charger
With 110V & 220V LCD Display Box
AC 110V: 7500W continue power, 30000w peak power
AC 220V: 7500W continue power, 30000w peak power
We separte the control board and the transfomer in two boxes,
so cusotmer will receive two boxes as photos show,
one is the transformer box,the other is the control box
1 hour ago, Carlos Garcia said:I purchased a 15000 watt just recently, installed it was working fine until I decided to use 240 vac. Didn't realize you must use a external device in order to use 240 so I guess I messed something. Have a question....I purchased it in USA and brought it to Guatemala...now I need to purchase parts and I don't know what needs to be replaced, and do you ship to Guatemala.... Gratefully Carlos Garcia.
Well, it's worth noting that *any* AC input on a PJ inverter is liable to cause failure. Case in point: it should have rejected the 240v input and not switched over!
Genetry Solar has not been an "authorized PJ repair center" for over a year now--we do not have official replacement parts nor manufacturer authorization any more. Your best bet for replacement parts would be to contact the original seller you purchased the inverter from.
I purchased a 15000 watt just recently, installed it was working fine until I decided to use 240 vac. Didn't realize you must use a external device in order to use 240 so I guess I messed something. Have a question....I purchased it in USA and brought it to Guatemala...now I need to purchase parts and I don't know what needs to be replaced, and do you ship to Guatemala.... Gratefully Carlos Garcia.
The external device is the "power choke"?
On 1/12/2023 at 8:39 PM, Sid Genetry Solar said:Well, it's worth noting that *any* AC input on a PJ inverter is liable to cause failure. Case in point: it should have rejected the 240v input and not switched over!
Genetry Solar has not been an "authorized PJ repair center" for over a year now--we do not have official replacement parts nor manufacturer authorization any more. Your best bet for replacement parts would be to contact the original seller you purchased the inverter from.
I wish I had known ( worth noting that *any* AC input on a PJ inverter is liable to cause failure.) I have wasted a lots of my time trying to figure out why the New AGM 12000w PJ tripping the input breaker…….. isn’t the the whole purpose of the input is to function as ATS and charger ( all useless options) I have wasted $649 on a complete piece of junk and yeah after the transaction complete silent from Jely or jack. ( Superpower) I bought an other Powmr , very simple installation and working without tripping any of breakers.
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I bought an other Powmr , very simple installation and working without tripping any of breakers.
Worth noting that the PowMr and other similar units are all HF-based inverters. If they work for your needs...great 👍.
But they are often between not-so-good and just plain terrible with surge loads (well pumps, etc.) Not to mention being basically impossible to repair by the end user (if necessary).
Well, it's worth noting that *any* AC input on a PJ inverter is liable to cause failure. Case in point: it should have rejected the 240v input and not switched over!
I wish I had known ( worth noting that *any* AC input on a PJ inverter is liable to cause failure.) I have wasted a lots of my time trying to figure out why the New AGM 12000w PJ tripping the input breaker…….. isn’t the the whole purpose of the input is to function as ATS and charger ( all useless options) I have wasted $649 on a complete piece of junk and yeah after the transaction complete silent from Jely or jack. ( Superpower) I bought an other Powmr , very simple installation and working without tripping any of breakers.
10 hours ago, Lener said:Does anyone know About this adjustment potentiometer/ battery adjustment. It just goes around and around does not seem to do anything nor that can tell .now After I touched it of course the ATS does not engage anyone longer..
Thanks.
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So that is a 10-position switch that selects between predefined battery charge settings (should be covered in the manual??) Several of the settings are "empty", which likely is what's causing ATS not to engage.
Worth noting that several of the "preset battery charge settings" are beyond the OVP (overvoltage protect) thresholds. Go PJ!