PLEASE NOTE: If you had an account with the previous forum, it has been ported to the new Genetry website!
You will need to reset the password to access the new forum. Click Log In → Forgot Password → enter your username or forum email address → click Email Reset Link.
So that is a 10-position switch that selects between predefined battery charge settings (should be covered in the manual??) Several of the settings are "empty", which likely is what's causing ATS not to engage.
Ahha there’s a manual! I have searched google I have yet to see one for 12000w AGM PJ, .PJ web site indicated an electronic version but can not seems to be able download , unless the is something special that I need to do. Day one was set 6/1 after touching then it is the rest of the story. I am going try all one at the time if am lucky one will do the job. I wonder if that board is available to purchase in case that I screwed it up while spinning around so much.
Thank you.
I wonder if that board is available to purchase in case that I screwed it up while spinning around so much.
Highly unlikely that it was damaged; the 10-position switch is designed for endless/continuous rotation.
I have searched google I have yet to see one for 12000w AGM PJ, .PJ web site indicated an electronic version but can not seems to be able download , unless the is something special that I need to do.
All of the PJ inverters are basically the same (using the exact same firmware); there are no notable functional differences between them.
Finally I found this
How to use Battery Charging function on this 5KW LF inverter?
1. Make sure the switch is “off” .
2. Battery is well connected.
3. Connect AC input to your home grid outlet.
( Note : Make sure your home grid frequency and voltage match with the 5KW LF power inverter.)
4. According to your battery type , “adjust the battery “charge adjustor marked "BTY VOLT" to the right voltage.
( No spec to any battery type and voltage , I have some 12.8 BTR lithium battery =26v ) which setting do I choose.? So ambiguous….. I guessed I just turn one round to the original setting 6/1
5. turn "ON" the inverter, then will charger your battery automatically..
Finally I found this
Yeah, and best of luck 😉.
There might be "voltage specs" for the setpoints on the rotary switch...BUT they are directly affected by the "battery voltage knob" which literally adjusts the battery voltage feedback to the main MCU.
each pure copper 1/4 inch by 6 inch busbar by 1.5 inch busbar will have a rated ampacity(i would need to look it up in a chart),I do not know off the top of my head,,,, but these busbars fill up rather quickly and more than one is needed in any system I think I have 6 busbars connected to the 15000 watt PowerJack 2 stainless steel box version with Thors Notebook that has 2 LCD screens.
I was just outside in the solar power shed and noted that it (the 15000 watt PowerJack inverter)was running at 54 watts with the fans running inside of it,,,,just out of curiosity and when I turned the inverter off to the center position it still had a 1/2 watt load from the inverter so I guess that would have the standby draw from the inverter to keep it continually online..
the accurate measurement is from the BMS....I did not note much on the Thors notebook screens...>>>because it (Thors notebook)is mounted behind other inverters at the moment.... I need more room in the solar power shed...
so right now it (the 15000 watt PowerJack ss 2 box inverter) is connected to the 1088Ah battery with a disconnect switch on the negative end and a 400 amp class T fuse on the positive end of the LiFePO4 battery....
the one thing I wonder is about the inrush current when I turn it on and off>>> but i make sure to shut down all loads before flipping the switch on the inverter.....I don't want to blow it up with a dum & dummer move...(the 15000 watt PowerJack inverter as it has been running 24/7 for a long time).
the pure copper bus bar is a good conductor of electricity and will run cooler with less resistance the larger the diameter it is just the same as a larger copper wire.... the copper bus bar will not get hot but a loose connection will as the one guy who had the connections wrong experienced the arc welder effect....
I will have to locate the non contact thermometer to see what the temperatures of the various connection points are running...
I was running a dedicated LiFePO4 charger yesterday and it shuts down automatically when the battery is fully charged it pulls about 800 watts, but I did note the ac power cord that came on it from the factory was a bit warm so that supplied power cord likely could have been supplied with a more expensive thicker AWG cord and it would be safer and run cooler also, but I am not going to tear it apart.as it functions without issues ((the dedicated LiFePO4 charger))...
on eBay I have purchased some much much larger tin plated busbars with pre-drilled holes and some insulators to make standoffs....I may use the larger busbars with a higher voltage system I am thinking on setting up.... still buying /acquiring pieces and parts for it....the larger copper busbars are 3inch x 24inch by 3/8 tinned copper I think with pre-drilled holes (an eBay find from some other decommissioned piece of equipment)
well the sun is shining at 24 degrees Fahrenheit so I hope there is no wind today and more of the snow will melt away....terrible dangerous ice pack under it.
have a great day all 😎
Each pure copper 1/4 inch by 6 inch busbar by 1.5 inch busbar will have a rated ampacity from the chart is 740 Amps .The larger copper busbars are 3inch x 24inch by 3/8 tinned copper is 1600 Amps from your chart . My flatten 3/4 inch copper pipe is 1/16 inch by 2 inch and from the chart is 460 Amps .
when sizing bus bars and connections, one is a lot better off to go the next size or more for the larger ampacities .... this will keep these parts cooler at higher ampacities....IMO
it does not cost much more to use the better inter connections....
one does not want the wire to act as a fuse and burn up.....
i observed that 1st hand with a small wire melting one time just like a fuse on a fire cracker it went burning quickly...
plastic enclosures are a joke .... use metal enclosures....
cheap aluminum and copper clad aluminum wire is best avoided....
in enclosed spaces where there is no air to cool the aluminum off it is a disaster waiting to happen....
copper will out perform aluminum wire any day of the week in almost all respects....
if your going to the effort to hook these things up,,,,,taking the time and getting the connections tight and using good quality materials to begin with is all to the end users benefit....
using el cheapo stuff has never paid off very well except for the el cheapo seller's benefit....
I like the hydraulically crimped pure copper 4/0 cables with tinned copper lugs for the connections....hydraulic crimper is about a 50-60 dollar investment.
a burned down house due to inferior connections is priceless, let alone the occupants safety....
dum and dummer need to learn the sound of an arc welder I think....that is the sound of a loose dc connection for sure..as it is arcing
that is why special breakers and special switches are needed for dc voltage vs ac voltage....
jack riccard of evtv was a pioneer in high voltage but an expert.... he was ahead of the curve some....IMO
have a great and safe day,,,, never believe everything and do your research if you plan to diy electric...
I am not an electrical engineer, my room mate in college tower dormitory is an engineer....with expertise....
cheers, the sun is out and a balmy 36 degrees Fahrenheit now (yea ha >>> global warming in my tiny cosmosphere)
🤔😎😎 definitely need sun glasses for the reflection off of the snow pack>>> great for the solar PV production though
On 7/13/2021 at 9:37 AM, pilgrimvalley said:i started looking at linus operating systems a bit as microsoft 11 may become the monopoly nightmare and not compatible with older computers. i have built and upgraded computers for many years but always issues with hardware compatibilities.
i do note that 2 different scanners are not supported at all on google chrome so had to go to a windows machine w/windows 10 pro 64bit to make the high speed auto duplexing scanner work like a charm...
had same problems with fast laser printers....
google chrome good for portable web browsing but is no good for running an office environment...
google chrome good for portable web browsing but is no good for running an office environment...
my wife thought she had to have the google chrome computer for xmas present to herself >>> it was less than 100 bucks but good for web stuff and not much else..... she does not understand the differences and I am busy so never needed her computer....but not much use to me (the google chrome laptop )....
I upgraded theDell latitude i7 processor windows-10-pro based machine with more memory and an ssd to speed it up.....
still not using penguin based os stuff yet...
working on the electrical testing of things more and tending the critters etc.....
the PowerJack 15000 watt lf psw sp 3 box ss inverter works good without issues still....i think it sounds like the best is to leave it running 24/7 which I do....
right now working on increasing usable space etc....
I personally have never done the oscilloscope checking of things....but may look at that in the future.
the problem most people encounter is the lack of adequate battery to run an inverter....
a 12000 watt inverter running 24/7 will need a big battery then think of the (days of autonomy) time you want for say three days of no sun and etc,,,
12000watts x 24 hours x 3 days = 864,000 watts or 864 kW and that is if said 12k inverter is 100 percent efficient ( no such critter out there) maybe 90 percent efficient inverter in all reality )
a 30000 watt solar array can produce no where near that amount in a day... 30 kW per hour of 100 percent solar PV out put ( again one can expect 4-6 hours on a daily basis when the sun is shining...)
the long and short of it is solar can help when the sun is shining..... but few people will actually be able to run a 12000 watt inverter 24/7 off grid... without the most expensive part >>>> the huge battery.....
still waiting to see that done.....and done safely
the battery is the most expensive part unfortunately....
more solar PV panels help a lot when the sun is shining.
to be comfortably off grid with all the modern energy wasting gismos a family desires requires a lot of battery storage or else not much electrical loads when the sun goes down...
conservation is always the fastest payback,,,,insulate the house 1st... reduce energy waste and I do not mean wasting big money on expensive new fangled appliances that will never pay for themselves before they break down..... that is just dumb... seek energy efficient appliances and use only as needed...cover the windows with thick insulating blankets at night ( orient windows to the south in northern USA for the winter and cover in summer time as you do not want the extra heat ) ((((energy conservation is always going to pay back the fastest))))
look for the phantom wall wart loads and shut them off if not absolutely required....use power strip with a switch easy and inexpensively removes some of the wasted wall wart drains...i use incandescent light bulbs in the winter time as I like this light and I like the heat they put off (not efficient but it often takes several led lights to give the same amount of good light....cheapo poor quality Chinese led lights suck vs better quality led lights( you get what you pay for sometimes) your mileage may vary.
I like power strips with a switch and you can find these every where...
PowerJack keeps changing their inverters and have raised their prices but bargains are still out there on eBay...
PowerJack may have dumped the annoying non profitable little fish but still sells and changes to innovate for the bargain market,,,making more money is their strategy surely..
inflation is rampant in the USA currently...
in the future more efficient safe battery innovations and better energy storage solutions will come along...
I have not ever blown a PowerJack inverter up and that is still the way I prefer to keep it.....(knock on wood)
sorry for the long reply typing....🤔
have a great Monday and be safe all 😎
I still prefer the inverter to do strictly the task of inverting and do not need or want an all in one.... I want my solar charge controller to be separate and I do not need or want WIFI or firmware update headaches...
as all people know one product is seldom compatible with another and they want to hide their innovations to make the dreamed million dollar product... fine, no problem (get a patent)... KISS...so the thing can easily be repaired...
it is always good and appreciated when people give good feedback and a little direction to the neophytes (I am a neophyte to electrical doo dad diagnosis/repair and never too old to learn)...
the PowerJack 15000 watt LF SP PSW 3 box stainless steel inverter is still working and a good design IMO
most know this or should by now:
a 12000 watt load ??? will use 12000 watt in one hour or 12kWh
a 48-volt inverter will heat up a DC cable with 250 amps running a 12000 watt load,,,, the higher the amps the hotter it gets....
12000 watts divided by 48 volts = 250amps if there were no losses in the cables and connections...( not likely )
you don't want the cable or any of the connections to heat up and act like a fuse so all those parts should be oversized to keep it all running at cooler more manageable temperatures...
the loose connection is where the arc will be the fire hazard
the battery (aka ESS or energy storage device) will also get hotter under heavy loads if not designed correctly with proper connections.... and the right BMS to protect the battery from us neophytes out here....
my BMS(battery management system) worked correctly and shut down under a low voltage scenario....when I was too busy minding the livestock and family demands in the fierce winter onslaughts in December./ January ((forget the day as we have had huge snowstorms every week or so)),>>>the inverter shut down under low voltage on the 8k LF inverter not the 15000 watt unit (PowerJack 15000 watt LF SP PSW 3 box stainless steel inverter ) as it had a larger battery....
more later,,, got to go
have a great day 😎
20k coming via Philadelphia PA in North Hampton PA today eta the 17th of February via FedEx,,,, must have came in to a port on the east coast??? from China directly >>> have to see in a few days shows as 87 pounds on FedEx site??
20k coming via Philadelphia PA in North Hampton PA today eta the 17th of February via FedEx,
The 20k was in Chicago and now in PA ? They loaded it in a wrong plane going the wrong direction ? I hope they keep the 2 boxes together .