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Note: can not L1+N+L2 at the same time!!!
I suspect that this has to do with the input circuit, which for 220v input inverters must only consist of L1 / L2, and Neutral / ground-bonded neutral must never come CLOSE to the inverter.
Note: can not L1+N+L2 at the same time!!!
When I first connect my 15kw PJ to the main service L1 N L2 and it run the heat pump with no problem when the 120vac for the refrigerator and the freezer was not running . When the 120vac freezer and refrigerator is on at the same time as the 240vac heat pump is also on then L1 and L2 is way out of balance and the light flicker bad and I shut everything down . Now I directly connect the heat pump L1 L2 G and no problem with L1 L2 out of balance . The most I get is 6100 watts . I think your ASL 6.5 is a good transformer and will also run my heat pump directly wired L1 L2 G . PJ inverters has no surge protection . Thank for your information .
do you ever think that powerjack may read your responses. in previous videos i obseved a 1500 watt inverter running 2600 watts. but this is their newest style inverter 15000 watts and is said to do 7500 watts contiuosly. i will not be using their ac charging or ups. only the off-grid 24 volt inverter hooked to a 120/240 panel. their warranty is not very good but it seems they have upped their inverters a bit. i have several 24-volt 5kw LiFePO4 batteries i will test it on in a few days hopefully.
i know they won't allow me to bid on auction after they had to replace the very heavy 20,000 watt inverter 48-volt lf sp psw that arrive to me as their 1st guineypig due to shipping damage; bad packaging. the powerjack seller names just change on ebay --- but still sold by powerjack.
this inverter arrived in 3 separate boxes from california in good condition. no physical damage noted. i hope it does 7500 watts without any problems...time will tell!
the 6000 and 8000 watt ss inverters have been running continuosly for months at low load though. expensive lights and coffee maker everyday and all night bug zapper.
this is a lot larger inverter than the 6000 and also a lot larger than the 8000 watt sp psw lf inverter i currently am running. i ran heat lamps in the barn all winter at about 200 feet away also for the baby hair sheep. you know they had to be born december 21st.
do you ever think that powerjack may read your responses. in previous videos i obseved a 1500 watt inverter running 2600 watts. but this is their newest style
I think youtube is block in China but people in Walnut CA will read this forum and is making new style control board and LF driver and is selling ASL11 ASL10 ASL9 and ASL 6.5 transformer on ebay . UPS do their fast delivery in the US . I do not think ASL11 transformer can do more than 10kw continue at least I can not find any test in youtube . Me and you are guineypigs .
i wonder if they took business away from genetry solar due to the negative comments or negative reviews; which were more glowing sometimes on the early youtube videos? i am sure feedback goes back to china. when i complained and made a negative review they no longer allow me to bid on ebay. so they are a lot more shifty in teir ways of projecting their products. they chnge vedor names and change product names but still are powerjackproducts. no explanation just action reaction without explanation.
if they read many negative comments, their reaction likely will not be positive. a company that has hundreds possibly thousands of employees working for pennies compared to what is paid in the USA. they do not advertise for genetry solar on their included manual anymore. just an observation.
before sean talked of opening a retail store with them in his videos, but now the rhetoric goes back and forth. my 24-volt systems are running Electrodacu SBMS0 on LiFePO4 battery banks off grid. there is no incentive to give power to the grid in south dakota where these are set up.
working toward a totally offgrid redundant system for the farm.
i have been acquiing more electric appliances to test and utilize the solar pv power via the offgrid inverters. coffee everday and pressure cookers, bug zappper, led lights, 24 volt water pumps, 24 volt water heater elements etc.table saws etc.
when you say the powerjack inverters has no surge protection? they just shut down due to overload or what have you observed? the battery charging from the solar panel is not an issue for me at this moment. i have a 400amp class t fuse between the inverters and the LiFePO4 batteries. two separate systems.
i am on process of assembling a higher amp (1088 amp) LiFePO4 battery at 24-volts currently.
is the issue when a heavy load starts and the surge amps are too high for the inverter? what problems have you encountered?
when i complained and made a negative review they no longer allow me to bid on ebay
Is that what ebay allow the seller do if negative review ? Other in this forum say they are also block in the US and from powerjack in China . Now I better not make any more review . Thank you .
is the issue when a heavy load starts and the surge amps are too high for the inverter? what problems have you encountered?
If the surge amps are too high for the FETs, the inverter likely will blow up. No surge protection as in, there's no way to instantaneously shut down if a short-circuit condition is detected.
when you say the powerjack inverters has no surge protection? they just shut down due to overload or what have you observed?
GS 6000 watt inverter has surge protection and will shut down at over 8000 watts . The 15kw PS will start my 4 ton heat pump because it do not know the 28000 watts surge because last only for less than a second and will start the heat pump no matter what . The 15kw now run 1 and 1/2 hour with Delta fans and will shut when temp reach 170 degree F but the voltage drop fast and the square wave cause me to manually shut down earlier . I let it cool down 2 hours because FETS is 135 degree F and will probably blow up all 24 FETS if I restart immediately . I do not want to be a guineypig .
If the surge amps are too high for the FETs, the inverter likely will blow up. No surge protection as in, there's no way to instantaneously shut down if a short-circuit condition is detected
Sid is completely right and I did blow up all 48 FETS (now only 1 mainboard) when I just got delivery over a year ago and see what happen when I restart with the FETS and transformer too HOT . That why I wait 2 hours because there is no warning when the FETS will blow out along with the LF driver .
if I wire L1 L2 and neutral to a 100 amp rated breaker box then it should be able to do either 120 or 240 at the same time. correct? i am not hooking it to the grid at all. most things i use are 120 but the kitchen stove is 220 and the oven is 220 and the electric dryer. the welder is 220 but may not hook that up to this. i have a generator i could run the welder on if i needed it.
it is rather confusing when they say you cant do
Note: can not L1+N+L2 at the same time!!!
if I wire L1 L2 and neutral to a 100 amp rated breaker box then it should be able to do either 120 or 240 at the same time.
Yes and do not forget the ground so there will be 4 wires to the main service box and make sure grid power is OFF . I do this in the winter and run the top of stove but not the oven and the microwave and the refrigerator and the freezer and all the lights and (the 220 vac hot waterheater for one hour) at the same time but not the washer or dryer or my 240 vac welder or 240vac heatpump . Hard wire #6 awg to the main service entrance from the inverter 3 terminals L1 N L2 and ground terminal and do not use the outlet on the box . Use a 50 amp transfer switch like the one for generator or some other way on youtube .
1 hour ago, pilgrimvalley said:if I wire L1 L2 and neutral to a 100 amp rated breaker box then it should be able to do either 120 or 240 at the same time. correct? i am not hooking it to the grid at all. most things i use are 120 but the kitchen stove is 220 and the oven is 220 and the electric dryer. the welder is 220 but may not hook that up to this. i have a generator i could run the welder on if i needed it.
it is rather confusing when they say you cant do
Note: can not L1+N+L2 at the same time!!!
Yes, it is highly confusing. I could make several guesses as to why/what, but at the end of the day electrical reality is what will prevail...
I can tell you that the center-tapped secondary of the transformer is going to handle any set of split loads. (L1 - N - L2). That's how I wired up my 9k PJ when I first got it (and it still runs that way, although the only PJ parts left are the mainboard and chassis!), and how most users will wire it up.
Possible reasons why PJ would put up that note:
- Overcurrent protection is only on L1 (deductively, L1 - N for 120v and L1 - L2 for 240v)
- LCD "meter" reading is only on L1 (for 240v) and N (for 120v)
Pulling from the L2 - N circuit won't have any overcurrent protection (for what little good it does), nor will such a load register on the LCDs. But it'll still work.
Yes, it is highly confusing. I could make several guesses as to why/what, but at the end of the day electrical reality is what will prevail
What Sid say is correct with the PJ inverter . PJ probably say do not L1 N L2 for liability or possible lawsuit if people wired wrong using the 3 terminals . They want people to use the provided outlets . Wiring for RV is different than for the house main service entrance as RV do not have a ground so is bonded to the neutral of the inverter but RV when connected to shorepower will have the neutral bonded to the shore . Let say someone use a sudicide cord connected to a older house with 3 wires L1 and L2 and ground . His house will burn down . Must connect 4 wires with neutral to the house to be safe or use GFCI like someone with RV in this forum .