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it has 2 positive and 2 negative posts for 24 volt input. positives are above the negatives. i wish they were side by sis --- the other orientation to avoid shorting issue potential better.
they appear to be conneted in parallel inside. so bothe positives are hooked together. and both negatives are hooked together.
would 2 cables be better? i am using 1 4/0 cable to positive and 1 4/0 cable to the negative.
would 2 cables be better? i am using 1 4/0 cable to positive and 1 4/0 cable to the negative
Yes 2 cables 4/0 and I tape the other pos and neg post not use .
i taped the red one on the other 2 inverter with only one post for 24-volt input. i would not think one would need to put a cable on each of the 4 input posts. probably more for powerjack use to be able to use smaller machine rated wire inside the 3 piece 24-volt inverter (15,000watt LF PSW SplitPhase) . thanks for your replies. yes the tape and isolation between all that power is very important. i shorted the 24-volt battery build early on in 2020 so it set me back and made me a lot more careful. it was like a welder and ruined a stud on the LiFePO4 battery. it made me do thing a bit differently. i label all positive battery posts with red tape and used a label maker to make positive label for them as well.
thanks, got the 4/0 cables made and shrink wrapped, and all bolted down to the bus bar. have to check a few connections before i turn it in. the battery has a on off switch and the inverter has an on off switch so all is off at the moment.. but man it is hot and humid today had an inch or two of rain overnight. good but humid now at 90 degrees in the solar power shed. all done with off-grid electricity. the heat gun added heat that was not needed inside today.
Thanks for the tape off the unused post comment. always a good reminder to me. thanks again.
Yesterday, I got the15,000 watt LF PSW split phase Powerjack inverter all connected to the heavy-duty busbar with 4/0 hydraulically crimped cables and shrink wrapped them with red and black adhesive lined shrink wrap for easy colr coding. all exposed terminals were taped up for safety in case something was accidentally dropped. dont short nothing. no no no.
fired up the inverter to run the small 120 volt fan. for a small test.
it is hooke to a 5kW lifepo4 battery for test but will ultimately be hooked to a much larger capacity lifepo4 battery.
thor's notebook registerd ok as far as i can tell. ithink i would like to mount that at eye level up on the wall or beneath a wall shelf in the solar power shed.
more later in a few days, but at least it did not let the smoke out.
will do a load test with bigger battery.
i shut it down over night and then turned it back on this morning. again no problems with the very small test load. so far so good... thank to the lord.
dc voltage definitely has my respect.
all done with off-grid generated electricity.
off grid coffee time .... bye bye 😎
thor's notebook registerd ok as far as i can tell. ithink i would like to mount that at eye level up on the wall
Good to know the inverter is working good . My inverter is always on harbor freight mover cart just off the floor . I like to get a used ASL6.5 transformer to make a test bench to test FET and LF driver and control board for my spare PJ parts before connecting to my working 15kw PJ . If I install a bad ebay PJ parts to my working PJ inverter to test sometime it will blow up all 24 FET that was working but not anymore . I never tell the seller or I will probably be block from ebay .
the reason i put up at a better working level is because it is better on the back than having to bend over stoop over to do the connections. one would think it is only done once; but as you arrange and reorganize and expand your sytem....>>>> locations change>>>> disconnect / reconnect etc...
i put 4 foot long 4/0 crimped and shrink wrapped cables so i could more readily hook to other battery configurations as i get them assembled. i used red 4/0 and black 4/0 for easy color coding.
right now i dont have the class t fuse on this one but it is in the plan. the inverter has circuit breakers built in; but i do not know that will be sufficient or not.
i consider the 400 amp class t fuse to be the catastrophe fuse... just in case. i also have some 300 amp class t fuse i could put inline.
the big very expensive dc capable circuit breakers would be convenient but some say when tested they are not always as good as they are hyped up to be for the dc side of things.
there is a youtube guy who goes by lithium solar who talks about correct fuses for dc.
lots of snake oil saespeople out there so reasearch is a must. 😎
hopefully in a few days i can get more assembled on the charge side of the battery. this one (15000 watt lf psw sp power jack 24-volt inverter) is not yet hooked to the solar panels; but the other 2 inverters are running 24/7 on solar pv generated electricity ( the 6000 and 8000 wat 24volt powerjack lf psw ps inverters).
there is a youtube guy who goes by lithium solar who talks about correct fuses for dc
Yes I watch youtube all the time . Last week I change some of my 300 amp dc breaker because they trip for no reason . I try t fuse 400 amps and none trip when nothing is shorted and works ok .
i have been making coffee every morning with this 15k 24volt lf sp psw powerjack inverter hooked up to a 24 volt lifepo4 battery. will run heavier loads later. the fan on the transformer box comes on as well as the 2 fans in the control box. and when i shut the inverter down the fans continue to run until it cools down.
so far all seems to function ok!!!!
unfortunately my internet went down for 10 days so taking awhile to add updates.
internet wireless in country with ne provider today.
many circuit breakers are not what they claim. class t fuses have been working great for me for the past 10 months without issue.
more later 😎
iI do note that the stainless Steel powerbox which has the control boards and all the mosfets and two fans was blowing out cool air and the stainless steel box which houses the large terroidal transformer was blowing out warmer air. so to me that indicates it was a good move by powerjack to separate the transformer from the control boads to aid with the heat disipation. I still dont have the thors notebook with the two lcd screens mounted at eye level but will in time so I can monitor what the lcd screens are indicating. right now just running a coffee pot and some other small loads. more later I am in the proces of assembling a 32 cell 24volt Lishen 272 Ah battery bank. I have 8 groups of 4 272Ah cells in parallel and I am awaiting the 2/0 copper cable and .25 inch tinned copper lugs to make the parallel to series battery interconnects. It will be 272 x4 = 1088 Ah potential at 24 volt nominal so 3.2 volts x 32 272Ah cells = 27852.8 Wh capacity @ 1088 Ah potential. likely will only use 200 amps or less ---- that is the goal, but will have more reserve capacity. 3.2volts x 8cells = 25.6 nominal volts but that is the low end, it will likely be at 3.4 to 3.55 so more likely (3.4x 8= 27.2 to 3.55x8 = 28.4 volts) 27.2 to 28.4 volts. my Electrodacus SBMS0 stops charging from the solar panel array at 3.55 volts. the Electrodacus SBMS0 controlls the Electrodacus DSSR20's which are the solar charge controllers. the Electrodacus SBMS0 balances the cells when they are charging. 😎
I ordered a Delta 24volt 5500rpm 120mm fan yesterday from aliexpress for $13.57 including shipping and tax. I think I will add this onto the transformer box to aid the cooling a bit. 120*120*38; I think it is 1.2 amps. model number FFB1224 12038 24 v 2.2 5500 RPM from SENSDA Electronics Store. I also ordered 50 pieces of 25mm long M6 set screws (grub Screws) for the 32 cell lishen battery build these were only 3.70 for 50 pieces including shipping. this will make it easier to attach the sense wires and lugs on the Lishen 32 cell battery build from another vendor on Aliexpress. time to make some coffee! using the solar power saved in the LipO4 batttery running the 24volt powerjack 15000 watt psw sp lf inverter. more later.
Have you been able to measure the no-load power consumption of the inverter?
One "FYI" is that pretty much all commercially available fans are rated to a surprisingly low voltage. A Delta FFB1224VHE (151CFM) fan is usually rated for 14.0-26.4vDC input. https://www.delta-fan.com/Download/Spec/FFB1224VHE-R00.pdf
While the fans WILL run at voltages beyond their rating, I HAVE had a FFB1248EHE Delta 48v fan (rated to 53v) fail after less than a year at 56.0-56.5v. Replaced it, and the other identical fans are still running today--but still! https://www.delta-fan.com/Download/Spec/FFB1248EHE-F00.pdf
This is why GS inverters have custom-designed fans. 24v inverters have fans rated for 20-40vDC input. The other fans we have are rated 38-75vDC input.
Here is a pic of the $5.00 drill press garage sale buy and my $60.00 hydraulic crimper.
i have used the 16 ton hydraulic crimper for many large gauge cable but did buy a smaller crimper for some small gauge wire hydraulic crimping also.
the old man selling the drill press vise already had it mounted on a board with a couple wood runners to mount on his drill press, so it makes a good stable base as well. Never have enough hands when making up cables it seems.
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I have not seen a spec sheet on the 12038 delta 24 volt fan yet but at 5500 RPM it should move some air. hope it lasts the rated 50,000 hours before failure!. probably have to do some more research on it. it likely wont be here for another 30 to 60 days. Aliexpress China shipping is often slow but somethimes things arrive in 10-20 days. I could hook up a buck converter on it to adjust input voltage a bit. I will try a few things when it arrives. thanks for your input.
today the 2/0 cable shoud be here, so I may get to start making the cable interconnects for the 32 cell LiFePO4 battery (32 272 Ah cells in a 4P8S configuration).😎
Model: FFB1224SHE
Size: 120 * 120 * 38 mm
Voltage: 24 v
Current: 1.2 A
Power: 28.8 W
Speed: 5500 RPM
53 the dba noise:
it has 3 wire leads
this seems to be the closest spec sheet i can find for the 24 volt delta fan i ordered but maybe not the exact one but it indicated 70,000 hours before failure? and 2 amps? but the measurements and rpms are the same.
time will tell if i bought a dud or a gem...... 😎