powerjack 24-volt 15000W lfsp inverter new 5-14-2021 manufacture

Well>>>>> Sid did say or Sean (I forget) that they were working for PowerJack so it is likely that PowerJack uses whatever they choose as all is produced in PowerJack factories as I understand it from Sean's videos on YouTube. It seems that PowerJack is not adverising in the included brochures for Sean's Generry solar business anymore. I had received an inverter that had Sean's contact info with one or more powerjack inverters but now that information is ommitted from the newer inverters I have bought.

Before Sean was talking of a storefront to sell PowerJack inverters in partnere with PowerJack. have not heard much about that business venture in awhile on the YouTube videos.

Dickson???? How and where does your choke mount on the positive DC input? Is that outside the transformer case on the DC input cable? 

organizing the off-grid solar power shed today in preparation of lifting the 96 plus pound 15,000 watt PSW LF PS PowerJack inverter into place. seems like I get a bit weaker with each passing year.😎

Todays rainy day project! the Lishen 272Ah 32 cell 4P8S 25.2 nominal volt battery is waiting for the inverter placement. cables are all made and ready. shelf is built and ready!

How and where does your choke mount on the positive DC input? Is that outside the transformer case on the DC input cable? 

The  choke  suppose to be  40 uHenry  but I  copy  what  other  inverter company give with their inverter to be loop  one  two  or more  times thru the  65mm  ferrite core  depend on wire size   that fit  .    People on youtube  say  it  do noting  but I  think  it  stop the  voltage spike  that  back feed  to the dc  side  when  a inductive load  switch  on .   I  know the  10uF  capacitor  on L2  will  stop  the  voltage spike  on the AC side  and  help run  the inductive  load  of the washing machine . 

See the  picture  of the choke on positive cable .   I   put a choke on the negative cable  also  .    A picture of a  similar  choke on ebay  but  not  the same  as mine .   

on "shematix" YouTube video he says that the choke does nothing on the dc side and only works on the ac side.

i am a bit more confused about the choke idea than before. 

the idea of the choke is to lessen the flyback from surges on heavy loads, but that would be on the ac side or the ac output from the inverter  ..... correct. 

so many things to try to understand. 

i did get the inverter up on the shelf yesterday but not much today as other things to do. i hooked up one of the inverter cables to the 400 amp class t fuse with 4/0 cable so small progress.

thanks for any help. still learning and trying to understand more....

maybe not talking about the exact same thing????

the idea of the choke is to lessen the flyback from surges on heavy loads, but that would be on the ac side or the ac output from the inverter  ..... correct

Yes .  If you  open  the transformer  box  there  is  a  choke  or  2  chokes  on the  AC  side  .   I   have  2 chokes  outside the box  on the  DC  pos  and DC  neg  wires  .   When  a heavy load like  a heat  pump  start  there is a huge  surge  on the AC side  which  cause  a  big  drain  on the  DC side  and the  choke  soften  the  huge  inrush  from the battery  .   People  on  youtube say  DC  choke do nothing which is true   but  nobody  run a 4 ton heat pump on a powerjack either  .   I  have to keep  my  battery voltage 61 volt  to run inductive load  that  why  I use  the dangerous  lithium ion  electric car battery  16s  .   Those  battery  dump  300 amps  in  millisecond  and  the temperature  of the  transformer  and moffet  jump  up  fast .  

maybe not talking about the exact same thing?

Another  youtube  by a  electrical  engineer  EEVblog 1406 - DC Circuit Transients Fundamentals  explain  how bad  an inductive  load  can be on the  DC side .   The  battery  DC  input  wire  of the inverter  go directly  to the positive of the  capacitor and  the ripple on the capacitor  will  destroy the  capacitor over  time  as  mention in this  forum .   I  put  choke on the positive input  like in the picture  so now  the  circuit is  a  LC  circuit .  The  choke  will  reduce the  ripple  on the capacitor  and the  capacitor will  last a  little longer  running the heavy inductive load of the heat pump .   The  surge  is so bad  on the capacitor  that the  capacitor burn and  the solder  melted  and the capacitor come loose  .   That  why I need  the 12kw GS   next year .    The  DC  choke  also reduce the  standby wattage to almost nothing .   

i will study up on the chokes on ac and dc. thanks for your reply/guidance. 

i suspect like you indicate and eevlog also at higher loads and voltages the transient spikes as the inverter ramps up and down may cause surge issues to the inverter electronics.

sounds like a good preventative way of giving it a soft start

i in time will see if i can aid the inverter a bit more to improve its performance.

today i am working on the Electrodacus SBMS0 hookup for the 32 cell Lishen LiFePO4 27,852.8Wh battery; I now have the heavy 15k 24-volt inverter on the shelf hooked to 4/0 cables now and to the 400 amp class T fuse.

thanks!

PJ had a rash of bad capacitors within the past year...caps that were poor quality and tended to fail easily.  As far as I know those caps can be identified by their black label.  PJ switched back to the beige/purplish caps after that, which haven't been problematic.  Which color caps do your inverter have?

What is the standby draw on your inverter now?

What is the standby draw on your inverter now?

DC  positive cable  measure  0.032 amp x  61v  equal  1.95 watt .    L2  has no  filter cap  measure 0.099 amp x  106v equal  10.49 watts .    L1 has  4uf  filter  capacitor  measure  0.002 amp x 116v  equal  0.23 watt .    The  black  label  capacitors blew out  were replaced with brown  capacitors  .    

i will study up on the chokes on ac and dc. thanks for your reply/guidance

Powerjack  now sell  the largest  choke I  ever seem on ebay  .    490 uHenry  for the  DC side and  also can be put on the output  AC side  for  L1   but maybe not  L2  because has no  filter capacitor .   This  make L1  like  a surge protectin  circuit .

The DC  side  will now be  a  LC  filter  circuit .   see  picture .   Powerjack  know their inverter has  a problem  and try the best  to fix it .   I  just lately  see  that  the  Sol Ark  and Growatt  inverter  has  a major  problem  with surge  but  will  be very difficult to fix because  it is a HF Inverter .   They  has a difficult  time running  washing machine and dishwasher  . 

Here  the pictures of  the  ebay inductor .

I don't think your meter is reading DC amperage.  With filtration, chokes, etc. you're getting the AC amperage down to a very commendable number--but that is not giving you the actual power draw of the inverter.  For example, an AC clamp meter will read 0 amps with a straight resistive DC load (i.e. a heater) that's running 300A off a DC source.

You need to either use a DC shunt or a clamp ammeter that is capable of reading DC amperage.  I personally have a Uni-T UT210E clamp meter, but there are other options available as well.

The magnetizing current of the main transformer is going to be somewhere above 25 watts.  A fully "choked" and cleanly driven design may be able to run as low as ~0.6A @ 50v, or 30W.

I don't think your meter is reading DC amperage.

I  have  to measure  with a different  meter as  reading is too low  .  Thank you .   A  year ago it was 0.4 a  x  60v equal  24 watts .  

 I have to measure with a different meter as reading is too low

 This morning  I measure   the pos DC  cable  is  0.171 amp  x  62v   equal  10.60 watt .    I measure  L2  is 0.099 amp  x  106v  equal  10.49  watt .    

Yeah, you need a proper DC meter to calculate input wattage.  95% of the clamp meters will only register AC amperage--which you can get to extremely low levels with chokes and filtration.  But an AC clamp meter cannot be used to determine overall system efficiency by "measuring power draw" on the DC battery cables.

As far as I know, DC clamp ammeters will have to be manually zeroed.  If your meter auto-zeroes, it's an AC clamp meter.

There is no way that the switching losses + control board power requirements of your inverter are 0.11W.  A whole "8kw" 24v PJ inverter runs 80mA @ 24v with just the electronics running (transformer off).  That's 1.92W power draw WITHOUT the transformer or FETs in the picture.

• The LEDs on the MOS boards at idle state consume nearly 250mW (10mA @ 24v = 0.24W).  If 48v, that's nearly 960mW (20mA @ 48v = 0.96W) loss with the entire inverter off.
• CPU alone is rated @ 100mW (0.1W), and it's fed by an LDO LM7805 regulator--which is a total loss device, requiring a total of 0.24W from the on-board 12v supply rail.

There is no way that the switching losses + control board power requirements of your inverter are 0.11W.  A whole "8kw" 24v PJ inverter runs 80mA @ 24v with just the electronics running (transformer off).

The 4/0  positive cable  is  11.0  watts on standby  not  0.11 watt .   The  L2  output  is  11.0  watts on the  AC side  awg 6 cable .      This is the new  measurement  this  morning .    Last year was 24.0  watts .