powerjack 24-volt 15000W lfsp inverter new 5-14-2021 manufacture

yes, Dickson >>>> that was the huge choke i was asking about that PowerJack is selling on eBay. 

a bandaid? i have been researching them a bit, but still not ready to try one of those huge expensive chokes. 

i do note that when i turn off the heat gun on the 8000-watt PowerJack 24-volt the overhead LED light will flash off as if a shut off surge or flyback issue or something.  i am sure i am not using the right word but maybe it needs more capacitors or something , a choke or something to mellow it out when the load is released????

thanks for the replies and pictures.

just about ready to hook up the 15000-watt 24-volt psw sp lf powerjack to the 32 cell LiFePO4 battery build. a few more details. to do to do!!!!!! to do to do!!1😎

Betcha it's a firmware voltage regulation reaction...the firmware makes a huge difference in how the inverter handles loads.  I'd expect the LED light to briefly "flash" brighter when the heat gun is turned off--though if the LED light has a high line voltage protection, it could conceivably blink "off" for a fraction of a second until the voltage returns to the spec range.

What is the make/model of the meter you are using for said measurements?

I didn't say that standby was 0.11 watts; I was referring to the difference between your measurements of the output load ("10.49 watts" on L2) and your measurement of the input load ("10.60 watt" on the battery) is mathematically 10.6 - 10.49 = 0.11 watts loss.  In other words, if the transformer is somehow 100% efficient with all the chokes, there is not enough extra power draw on the input to allow operation of the control board.

My point is to prove that the measurement methods are not correct, because the static draw of the control board alone is nearly 2 watts (measured on my bench with a DC power supply, and verified with a Uni-T UT210E DC clamp meter.) 

Even assuming the chokes reduced the transformer idle current to nothing (oh happy day!), you will not be able to negate the ~2 watt power draw of the control board.

I personally know a customer who was tweaking things to get extremely low no-load values...only to later find out that their clamp meter was not capable of reading DC amperage, negating all of the tests.

 that was the huge choke i was asking about that PowerJack is selling on eBay

I  was surprise  to see the  490uHenry  ferrite choke  install on the output AC 120v side .   A  lightning  surge  suppressor  do have a  ferrite choke  and a bypass  capacitor  for the AC 240 v  for  house  surge protection    I  have one on my house main service 240v  to protect the heat pump .   A  10uf capacitor on L2   will help start  and run  inductive load like washing machine and  dishwasher .   The  490u Henry choke  on the DC  cable will make a  LC circuit  for back EMF .    Your heat gun cause a huge surge when  shut off  never happen to me .   The Sol Art inverter  and Growatt  inverter  shut down also when  there a huge resistive  load  and  willl  also shut down when a huge inductive load from a dishwasher and washing machine .  This is from  youtube review and  said the 2 above inverters cause a very dangerous condition because the  neutal line  is   shut off at the same time of the surge  but the  inverter  still output 120v  and a person can be electrocuted  because the ground is now 120v .   That is so confusing that  they do not have a solution yet .   Need a EE degree to explain all this .   This subject is going down a rabbit hole .  

I didn't say that standby was 0.11 watts; I was referring to the difference between your measurements of the output load ("10.49 watts" on L2) and your measurement of the input load ("10.60 watt" on the battery) is mathematically 10.6 - 10.49 = 0.11 watts loss

I  am confuse about the measurement of  output  and  DC input  .   I am using the inverter now so I  will try to take picture of what I  measure  tomorrow morning .   Thank you .   

I didn't say that standby was 0.11 watts; I was referring to the difference between your measurements of the output load 

Surprise  a different  meter make a big difference .   Thank you.   DC positive cable  1.434amps   at 61.4 v    and  0.098 AC amp at  107vac .   see picture .

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Bingo, there we go....

So now when measuring DC amps, you need to set the Uni-T UT210E to DC amp scale.  To do this, set it to the desired range (in your case 2A).  Then press the blue button.  Note the LCD display will switch from "AC" to "DC".  Press the black button ("Zero").  Meter should drop to near zero.  NOW you can clamp it to the battery DC wire.

Note that every time you change the amp scale (2A / 20A / 100A), the meter will revert back to AC amps; you will have to re-set it to DC amps, and re-zero it.  Make sure that you remove the meter from the wire when zeroing, otherwise it will "zero" whatever the current load is.

1.434A @ 61v on the battery is pretty high for no load.......ideal should be under 1A.

@dicksonBTW the MT87 meter is NOT designed to measure DC amps.

1.434A @ 61v on the battery is pretty high for no load.......ideal should be under 1A.

I  was using  the wrong meter before   amd  now  measure  the  positive cable again with Uni-T UT210E  and  reading  1.6amps  at  57 vDC . This  is  still high  so  the choke on the  positive cable outside the  inverter probably not  lower the standby  current and maybe increase  the current  .  The choke inside  the box  on the primary of transformer do lower the  standby  current  .   Thank you .     

I doubt it is doing anything.  It may reduce AC ripple on the lines (as indicated by reduced AC amperage readings), but it won't significantly help anything else.  I don't think it'll increase the current at all.

2 full turns around the PJ choke (if at all possible) on the low voltage side of the transformer (primary side) will give you the best result.  (I don't expect much of any change with a choke on the high voltage side--secondary--of the transformer.)

And yes, I try to specify "primary" and "secondary" simply because PJ seems to label the low voltage side as the "O.P" (output) and the high voltage side as the "I.P." (input).  Doesn't make sense to me, but keeping the vernacular clear should help prevent confusion...

If your system regularly runs >60v, you'll probably benefit quite a bit from a second low-side choke on the transformer.  The higher the difference between the transformer spec voltage and the actual battery voltage, the more chokes will be necessary to keep the no-load current down.  One on each side of the primary winding should have the best results.

If your system regularly runs >60v, you'll probably benefit quite a bit from a second low-side choke on the transformer.

Yes I  added a second  choke on the other primary of the  transformer  from what you tested  on this forum  eariler .  The  best  improvment was removing  one  complete  main board .   Blow up  48 FETs  is too expensive .  24 FETs  on ebay is now over 100 dollars  and 30 dollars for  LF driver .   

1.434A @ 61v on the battery is pretty high for no load.......ideal should be under 1A.

I  watch  Sean  youtube  about how he measure  standby ampage .   The PJ 6000 watt inverter  measure 0.10 amp  which is 1.35 watt  with the switch  OFF .   My  mistake was  measuring 1.6amps  with the switch ON  and  the fan ON . Now measure again with switch  off  and fan off  is 0.42amp at  57vDC  is now the same as last year 24 watts .   Thank you  Sid for  your patience to answer  my stupid mistake  .   The  choke  by PJ  on ebay  probably  do nothing  but cost  over 100 dollars .   

I  watch  Sean  youtube  about how he measure  standby ampage

This is the youtube by Sean .

15,000 watt 24-volt 3 piece PowerJack inverter : big spark trying to install class t fuse?? it was one of my final connections. ... so had to stop and rethink....

 Question#1 : Was this because the inverter had already been hooked up to another 24-volt lifepo4 battery (for testing) and the capacitors were  already charged up?  when i turned the inverter on without power then the green led went down to off.

Question#2: So is it now with the capacitors discharged? are the capacitors now discharged?

Sorry for the dumb questions, but I am still learning and a bit cautious!

as this is a 1088Ah battery .... I decided to add the BlueSea battery switch ...  I am putting it on the negative side of the battery....

it is only rated at 350 amps 48 volts continual.

thanks in advance for any help/suggestions! 😎

Was this because the inverter had already been hooked up to another 24-volt lifepo4 battery (for testing) and the capacitors were  already charged up? 

Are you trying to  parallel  the 1088ah battery  to the  24 v lifepo4 battery already  connected  ?    Need to  check the  voltage of the  2 different battery bank  before  parallel  the connection  .   The voltage of  2  different  battery bank should be the same within  2 volts .  There will be  a huge  spark  becuase the  2 bank of battery  will  equalize in  millisecond . 

If the  capacitor is  discharge  when  all  cables is disconnected  then  do you know how to   pre-charge  the  capacitor  to avoid  a huge  spark when the inverter  switch turn on  to  charge  the capacitor in millisecond  ?  

Sorry to ask a question to your  question .  

If it was wired up forwards, then in all likelihood this is normal expected behavior.

Like @dickson reminded, using a light bulb or other resistive load to "precharge" the inverter (to avoid the surge) is always a good idea; the surge of those main filter caps is insane.  (I personally have had the surge damage other DC devices connected to the battery bank due to overvoltage.)