48v 15000 watt low voltage shut down and no restart

Also I wanted to add the 2 green light are on when I power inverter up as well

And the dip switch seems to be acting funny.  I have open lead acid battery and I'm suppose to have it on setting 6 but one of the green lights isn't that bright as apposed to having it on 5.  I've always had issues with the fan always running also

If all 3 LEDs are lighting up, this means that the CPU is stuck in startup.  Possible that it's resetting dozens of times per second due to shorted FETs or otherwise?

One way to check if the FETs are at fault would be to unscrew and unplug the LF Driver board.  If the inverter gives a beep error (and just the red light), that'd kinda indicate FETs are damaged.

Charge / AC input on PJ inverters seems to be a bit problematic.  No comment on that 😉.

And the dip switch seems to be acting funny.  I have open lead acid battery and I'm suppose to have it on setting 6 but one of the green lights isn't that bright as apposed to having it on 5.  I've always had issues with the fan always running also

Is the  dip switch inside the inverter ?    My 15kw PS  fan run even after shut down for an hour  which is normal  because   sometimes  it takes  the transformer 2 hours to cool down .   Your  15kw can be repair  but  without  charging function  if that is ok ?   The  information  given so far  do not tell  what parts  are needed  except  that it  is not working .    I  need photo  of  control  board  and  charger and output board  that show  L!  and neutral  from transformer wire connections  .    What is the  voltage  from transformer L1 to N  and  L2 to N  after removing  the cover ?    Measuring  ac voltage is very  dangerous so  if you never done   electronic work  then  maybe just take some photos  to see if parts is still available .     Thank you  .   

Ty for input.  What 3 led lights are you referring to?  Please look at pics and let me know what you think.  Also when inverter shut down over low voltage I shut inverter off within 2 min.  I never smelled anything burnt.  I checked voltage of black wires going from the Moffett heat sink to transformer and its reading direct voltage/ 28 volts on each heat sink.  I checked for ac voltage coming out of inverter and there is no voltage reading.

I was mistaken when speaking abt dip switch.  I mentioned to say selector switch.  Also when measuring voltage from heat sink to transformer I get a reading of 28v direct current on each heat sink which together equal battery voltage.  The white insulated wires coming out of transformer measure 0 voltage.  Please look at pics and get back with me.  

Ty

Thank you  for the sharp photos .   The  white wires  reading  zero at the transformer mean the LF driver not working  .   I  see one led  light up on control board and no led light up on LF driver .  Is this photo taken with the switch on ?   The control board  should have 3 led on  continuous  and LF driver led on also when switch on .   Mosfets are all  good  from the photos .  Please turn switch on  for no more than  5 seconds to see if the 3 leds on control board  start  blinking  and one LF driver led also blink .  IF  any led  is blinking  SHUT OFF  the switch immediately  or the mofets  may blow up .     Let  me know .   

@samI'm afraid you spotted the problem....that hole in the main MCU ("CPU" PJ calls it) shouldn't be there--it indicates catastrophic failure of the MCU (microcontroller unit).  Wish I knew what the MCU die looked like, that way I could use some forensic analysis to determine what caused it to blow...

You'll need at least a new control board.  Not sure if the damage has gone any farther downstream (i.e. LF Driver / MOS boards)...

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Looked at the pinout...technically, the only signal line that could cause issues in that area of the "CPU" is the AC Mains relay.  Wonder if it doesn't have a sufficient backsplash diode on it...? 

The same port that controls the relay also controls all 3 LEDs (front panel).

The same port that controls the relay also controls all 3 LEDs (front panel).

Yes sir .   The new rev 11.1 control board come with new LF driver will  fix your inverter  .  The  mosboard  led is on may not mean the mosboard is  good .   All the  mosfets  need to be check like in Sean video  and  I  found  that  the last  shipment of mosboard  has some bad resistor  .  A bad resistor on one mosboard  will blow up all the other mosfets  that I test on my test bench .   You can not trust ebay parts .   Show the photos of  the bad  MCU  and your test  of the transformer ac voltage is zero and  some of  the other photos  and  do not comment on charger  and that your max load is less than 5000w and the  seller may send  the parts  or the spare parts is 100 dollars .  Ask for the output board since your voltage reading is zero .    Thank you .    

Im still having troubles with this inverter.  I contacted supplier I purchased it from and they gave me 2 new cpu boards and drivers and still it does not work.  I check the wires coming off transformer into AC board and they are tight.  I measured the voltage coming out of transformer and the pic with the blue circles measure roughly 115v but the one wire in bottom left of that pick right above the blue circle has no voltage on it.  This has the battery charger on this but if I can bypass that in anyway to resolve this issue Im all for it.

thanks

sam

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 I contacted supplier I purchased it from and they gave me 2 new cpu boards and drivers and still it does not work

I  go back to your post  on july 28 .    Look like you  replace the rev 10.3 control board with the  bad MCU  with a   new rev 11.1 control board .   Your new  picture  show  the green  LED  working  but  has problem  .   Your  output  and  charger  board  show 115 vac .  My  15kw powerjack  do not  have charger board  and is wire  different  .   I  will  open  my powerjack   and   get back  to this post  later  .    Your  charger board  may  be damage  on july 28  and  need to be change  with a output board that has no   charger  board  .    Thank you  for the video  and  I   will  compare  to  my  rev 11.1 control board   running  with no problem  later  .  

also i disassembled the inverter a little more so I could test mosfets.   I got 1 section removed and it tested great.  The visual inspection shows no signs of bad mosfets.  I took a picture of what I believe is the ac charge board and probably the direct current charger.  I dont understand how to hook up the charger.  From what I understand I should wire up 110 volts to the 110 input on the front lower left panel of inverter but the thing is I have 110v going out of it.  Not shur why?  I attached a pic of the front cover where the 110 input is and I circled it in blue but I have 110 coming out.

thanks

sam

I dont understand how to hook up the charger.  From what I understand I should wire up 110 volts to the 110 input on the front lower left panel of inverter 

Sorry  my  15kw  do not have a charger  board and I  do not know how to hook up the  charger  .    Can you  not connect  to the 110 input  and not use charging  ?   Almost eveyone  who post in this forum  say  charging  is a problem .    Your  connection  to the   L1  N  L2  output  is  disturbing  .    The  bare copper  wire  is Ground  and suppose connect to the inverter metal case .  The  white  wire  is  N  to the  inverter output  and   need  to be  AWG 6  the same size  as the  red  and black  to L1  and L2  .   My  output board  which  has no  charging  is  completely  different  from your  output  board in the picture .   There is not  and  easy way  to  modify  your inverter  with  an output board like  mine .   I  suggest  send  the video  of the  LED  blinking  and  making the thumping  noise  to the seller and  have a powerjack  engineer  look at the video  .  Thank  you for all the pictures .   Now  I  know why  Sean  have such a hard time  repairing  powerjack inverter  and not answer  because  of all  the diiferent  boards .