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If you have 110v coming out of the AC Input terminal, something is seriously miswired; factory or otherwise.
I don't think your problem is FETs, driver board, or anything of that sort. I would suspect a bad connection somewhere between the secondary (high voltage) side of the transformer, and the battery terminals. Try wiggling the transformer connection wires, or pull the white covers back from over the crimps. Are the crimped transformer wire ends loose / poorly connecting? Are the screw terminals on the PCB loose? Can you move the ring terminal back and forth while the screw is tightened? (They've had issues with the screws being too long--they'll be tight but not actually holding the ring terminal.)
In short: the inverter can regulate output voltage at no load. As soon as you put a load on it, the regulation goes wonky--this to me sounds like the regulator is not seeing any AC output voltage as soon as you put a load on it.
The video showed your tool barely moving as the inverter is "warping" the drive signals. If there was a solid connection, I'd expect that tool to be racing with the transformer, as the output AC voltage ramps from 0 to likely past 300vAC each time it "warps". If it was a FET drive issue, you wouldn't hear the sound from the transformer OR the FETs would just blow up.
(sorry, thought I posted this last night!)
Thankyou for the input
I sent video to seller and the engineers looked and it and they can not figure out what is wrong with it and suggest I return it to them for repair. They are suppose to get back with me on who to send it to seeing how the repair shop in michigan is shut down but they havnt got back yet. If I have to send it to california that will cost some money to send 100 lbs there plus I dont have original packaging.
Hey Sid how would I test the regulator and where is it located.
I enclosed more pics and I double checked the wiring and the wiring seems to be in good shape. Everything was tight during disassembly and the wiring terminals are tight on the wire.
Can I power this inverter up being disconnected from ac charge board/ charging unit so I can measure the voltage coming out of the transformer or would this damage the cpu or fets?
The 1 pic with circles on it identifies where I had 115v and the red circle is the leg off the transformer that I had 0 volts. The drawling with the blue lines identifies the 110 input voltage for what should be the charger and Im actually am producing voltage on both them legs. Yes that is correct on the black and red wire im getting 110. I had a pic of me measuring this voltage but I cant find it. I think I attached it to a previous thread on this above.
thanks
sam
also who can I take this to to have this looked at? Ive call gentery up in michigan but no reply yet
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I sent video to seller and the engineers looked and it and they can not figure out what is wrong with it and suggest I return it to them for repair. They are suppose to get back with me on who to send it to seeing how the repair shop in michigan is shut down but they havnt got back yet
Previous post on this forum say powerjack will do trade in for the 3 boxes 15000 watt which is better but do not know the cost . I do not see anymore one box 15kw on ebay . The new design is AMG but do not know what that output board design is like .
Can I power this inverter up being disconnected from ac charge board/ charging unit so I can measure the voltage coming out of the transformer or would this damage the cpu or fets?
Technically, this should provide exactly the same end result as you are currently getting when putting a load on the inverter.
They are suppose to get back with me on who to send it to seeing how the repair shop in michigan is shut down but they havnt got back yet.
Did Power Jack themselves say "the Michigan repair shop is shut down"?
Hey Sid how would I test the regulator and where is it located.
Regulation is entirely handled in the CPU firmware. The issue would be if the voltage feedback to the CPU is working--if it isn't, that'd be causing the issue.
You might want to try swapping the little removable resistor boards (on the output board), and see if they're at fault. Those are the voltage "feedback" boards.
Can't rule out a bad transformer secondary just yet.
From a much older post...
I contacted supplier I purchased it from and they gave me 2 new cpu boards and drivers and still it does not work.
They sent you CPU boards? You've got a 10.3 control board, the only replaceable part on the control board is the LF Driver. What was the other board they provided?
--Here is the message I recieved from seller about taking inverter to the repair shop in Michigan. I told him seeing how I dont have the boxs I would be willing to take inverter myself to repair shop. I told him it would be a 3 hour drive and I wanted to make sure someone was there before I made the trip. That is when he said they are closed. I have had roughly 25 emails exchanged with this seller trying to get this inverter fixed.
Dear Sam
thanks for your mail again
1.our engineer advise you had help all possible test,then we do not know how to guide you to test again,that's why we ask you return to our warehouse for repaire
2.the Michigan repaire center had closed,we'll check with our warehouse for the new repaire center then advise you asap,thanks
have nice weekend
Regards
David
--The new boards he gave me are the big green ones that the driver mounts to. I been calling them cpu or mother boards. Maybe Im calling them the wrong name. He also gave me 2 drivers. There different then the original boards, I believe upgrades?
--I never spoke to powerjack themselves. Do you have a contact for them so I can explain the situation? Ive issues since Ive purchased this inverter, the charger never worked and the fans always run all the time, even if its 30 degrees out with hardly any load.
--here is the most recent response I got from seller after I requested were to send for repair a 2nd time
Dear Sam
we send several times parts to you to replace,we pay much money for the parts and postage to you also,we do not wish this status,at first you want to return to exchange to the 25000w mode,then you change the mind and several month later advise the problem again and we send severl times parts to you to replace,it still can not reslove the problem,then you can just return for our repaire,thanks
Regards
David
--He mentions how I wanted to exchange for a 25000watt which is true but I only asked that after I started having problems with it but he wants me to pay 300 to ship inverter to him plus pay full price for a 25000 watt inverter. I got ebay involved and they said to just keep trying to work it out with seller. If I have to pay for shipping to china to get this fixed it will cost roughly 5-600 dollars and Id be better off just buying a 25000 watt inverter without a charger. I actually bought a forklift charger seeing how the charger dont work on this inverter so theres no need for me to get a charger.
--I almost feel the problem with this inverter is it is trying to charge the batteries at the same time produce ac voltage. I could be wrong but seeing how many people have problems with the charger on these im suspect to think thats the issue.
--
Based in Taiwan, powerservice-inverter has been an eBay member since Aug 13, 2008
--Im do not know where the resister boards are that you are refering to. I can solder and do work like this but would need guidance on this kind of repair.
thanks for the help
-I almost feel the problem with this inverter is it is trying to charge the batteries at the same time produce ac voltage. I could be wrong but seeing how many people have problems with the charger on these im suspect to think thats the issue
David know just about all the problem with powerjack inverter on ebay . David is the one told me to not use charger . David also get report from all the other ebay powerjack seller about any complaint because he send me email when I buy parts from other ebay powerjack sellers . Thank you for your report . I never complain to David .
--Here is the message I recieved from seller about taking inverter to the repair shop in Michigan. I told him seeing how I dont have the boxs I would be willing to take inverter myself to repair shop. I told him it would be a 3 hour drive and I wanted to make sure someone was there before I made the trip. That is when he said they are closed. I have had roughly 25 emails exchanged with this seller trying to get this inverter fixed.
Well, so I guess they can tell everybody but Sean that they don't want him to do repairs for them any more. He's figured as much by this point by guessing and hints.........
Sean is most definitely still around. He wouldn't be compensated by PJ for any repair work (i.e. he'd have to bill you), but he has plenty of spare parts.
Where approximately are you based around? (Respond via PM if you don't want to say in the forum. Just curious if you're in the Ohio area.)
--The new boards he gave me are the big green ones that the driver mounts to. I been calling them cpu or mother boards. Maybe Im calling them the wrong name. He also gave me 2 drivers. There different then the original boards, I believe upgrades?
Those would be "control boards." If replacing that board did not fix the issue, I would continue to maintain that the issue is on the output AC board (one mounted to the front panel) and/or perhaps the transformer. Determining which is at fault could likely be determined by use of a 120vAC light bulb (incandescent, preferably). Connecting it directly to the transformer leads (make sure you get 120v, not 240v!), see if the light bulb gets very bright every time the transformer does the sharp "buzz" ramp.
- If it DOES briefly get very bright at a sharp "buzz" from the transformer, the issue is with the output board with all the wires soldered on random points.
- If the light seems to behave like the tool (i.e. really not getting super bright at each "buzz" from the transformer), then the transformer is at fault.
--I almost feel the problem with this inverter is it is trying to charge the batteries at the same time produce ac voltage. I could be wrong but seeing how many people have problems with the charger on these im suspect to think thats the issue.
Not possible. Pretty sure the issue with the voltage coming out of the input terminals is that the inverter output board is seriously miswired and/or the relay is faulty/latched on. Do not connect any AC input to the inverter with it like this, you'll just fry the FETs.
If the inverter is running in charge mode, it will NOT be producing any AC output. Charge runs a boost function on the transformer, which will not produce any AC output from the transformer.
And yes, the charger function is very poorly implemented in software.
--I never spoke to powerjack themselves. Do you have a contact for them so I can explain the situation? Ive issues since Ive purchased this inverter, the charger never worked and the fans always run all the time, even if its 30 degrees out with hardly any load.
You probably are speaking to PJ themselves. They have a lot of different names/stores.
You probably are speaking to PJ themselves. They have a lot of different names/stores.
I think David is the representive for Powerjack in the US selling on ebay . It seem David answer no matter which ebay seller I ask for information . I was suprise at first but it seem all complaint get back to Powerjack in China .
Hey Sid thanks and dickson as well, and yes im in NW ohio, Custar ohio to be exact. Its just 20 min south of bowling green ohio.
--I did the test with a 120 light bulb as discribed and I checked both legs coming off of transformer. The light got bright then dimmed down and did this roughly 2 times before the alarm started to sound then I powered off inverter. I attached a short vid of it. I guess this rules out the the possibility that the transformer is bad. Im not sure if the alarm should have sounded though or if it should have kept pulsing. The 3rd leg coming off the transformer is ground and I used the same ground for each test. I have a earth ground and power company ground attached to case of inverter.
--Also is the out put board another name for ac board? I attached a pic of what is mounted to the front cover and I believe you said this is the ac board.
--Here is the latest message I recieved from david (PJ). Before he said I could take it to ups and have them package it and ship it but Im not sure if he will allow that now. Hopfully we can just fix it. I do believe he should supply the parts though.
New message from: powerservice-inverter (10,887<img alt="YellowShooting Star" data-ratio="100.00" height="18" style="text-decoration:none;vertical-align:middle;border:none;" width="18" data-src=" https://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/stars-11.gi f" target="_blank">https://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/stars-11.gi f"/> " src="/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png" />)
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--I did the test with a 120 light bulb as discribed and I checked both legs coming off of transformer. The light got bright then dimmed down and did this roughly 2 times before the alarm started to sound then I powered off inverter. I attached a short vid of it. I guess this rules out the the possibility that the transformer is bad. Im not sure if the alarm should have sounded though or if it should have kept pulsing. The 3rd leg coming off the transformer is ground and I used the same ground for each test. I have a earth ground and power company ground attached to case of inverter.
Ah, OK, finally got the video to download...
...I meant under load! Connect the light bulb to the transformer terminals WITH IT CONNECTED to the AC / output board as well. Then load the inverter down until it starts doing that "warping" sound--and see what the light bulb is doing.
Passing no-load tests is easy, that's like idling a car. Putting some load on it is like loading the engine down--that's when you find that the crankshaft bolts weren't tight enough.
If the transformer isn't connected to the AC / output board, it's impossible for the CPU to regulate the output voltage in the first place.
Perhaps a better test would be to connect a 120v light bulb directly to an output phase of the transformer (i.e. 120v, not 240v!)...and another one at the output terminals of the inverter where your load is connected.
If they don't match, then there's a hardware problem on the AC / output board. (The pig's nest of wiring on it haphazardly connected to the board strongly suggests that to be the issue.) If they DO match, but they aren't brightest when the transformer is at the loudest "buzz" part of the warp, then there's a transformer issue.
P.S. You're a lot closer to me than to Sean. But Sean has more repair parts than I do 😉
well dang im tempted to ask you to work on it or check it out for me.. I will hook the transformer back up to ac board and try and run test again.
But in the mean time please call me or send me a text if it is possible for you to look at this. Im sure we can fix it going the way we are but I kinda would really like to have this up and running soon and if that means me taking 4 hours (possibly) out of my day for you to check this out that would be great. Im going to try and PM you my number.
thank you much
sam