powerjack power inverter 26,000 watt AMG version 48 volt PSW LF 13,000 watt continuous at 240 volts or 120 volts etc.

3 hours ago, pilgrimvalley said:

Is PowerJack the only one using this chnt dz47-80 c50 breaker???

Not that particular model but CHNT breakers seem to be the latest darling in the Chinese manufacturing world.  You will find them used in several brands of 19" rack mount 48V batteries.

I can't speak for their quality but I do know that an Australian inverter manufacturer (yes, there still are domestic manufacture of such things in Australia) decided to use a cheap Chinese breaker several years ago and it bit them.  Lots of problems, lots of money spent fixing (ie replacing) crook breakers.  They went back to a reputable brand of breaker and haven't looked back.

My own experience with a better known Chinese MCB manufacturer, TOMZN, wasn't all that great either.  Apparently TOMZN has a good reputation in Europe but I can't recommend them personally.  Maybe their lower rated AC breakers work well but their higher current DC breakers can't be trusted IMO.

I have some TOMZN dc breakers, and some Langir dc breakers for the 32 amp and 16 amp solar panel breakers but no experience with the CHNT brand...

the CHNT seemed hard to tell on this inverter what its amperage rating was or anything for sure ; still researching it a bit..

seems like there are a lot of china made breakers that one would have to question, that is another reason to utilize the 80 or 100 amp Square D QO AC breaker disconnect 1st.... i have little confidence in the built in breaker on the PowerJack 26000 watt PSW SP LF AMG version inverter. it appears to be an breaker for the output on L1 and L2 so i have to assume it is an AC breaker from CHNT but can not decipher what their amp rating is. Assume is a bad word as it often is something else...

just trying to figure it out a bit more.... need it to be safe....and functional...that is the goal.

my engineer i converse with seems to like the Langir breakers but it seems almost anything can be copycat and fake ones sold by the less than honest china vendors ( to bite my tongue a bit)....

thanks for your reply 😎

The -80 refers to the 'native' amp rating of the breaker while the c50 refers to the set point.  These types of breakers have an adjust screw accessible via a hole in the shell.  They are adjusted for the right thermal trip point at the factory.  The -80 part affects the magnetic trip.

The C curve is what you'll find on normal power circuits while D curve is for things that have a high start current such as large AC motors.  C trips earlier than D.

Thermal trip is not at 50A.  It will take some sustained current above 50A (in standard environmental conditions, 25 celcius, no other heat producing things in contact with the shell of the breaker etc) to trip, refer to the C curve to see how it performs.

Magnetic trip is not at 80A.  It typically takes 6 or more times 80A for the magentic trip to fire.  Check the curves to see what it trips.  MCBs that have had a magentic trip happen usually take enough damage to the actual contacts in the breaker that they have to be replaced.  Pitting and soot prevents them from making a decent low resistance contact again.

This breaker:  50A thermal, 80A magnetic, C curve.

that helps me a lot... thank you 

the second powerjack 26000 watt lf sp psw inverter is delayed due to covid shutting down the powerjack factory for 1.5 months

so they are sending me 2 sets of free mosfets and  driver board 

Hi Sir，
I am really sorry to inform that the item you ordered from us still isn’t sent out, because of the Corona Virus Disease our factory was off work for about one and half a month. Now the prodution is resumed. We are now preparing the goods and could send it out at the end of this month by Ocean shipping. It’s estimated to take about 45 days to the United States and take about 15 days to delivery to your place, please confirm if that is acceptable or not, if it is acceptable, then we would like to send you a set of repair parts(4pcs mosfets boards and 1pc driver board, which cost US$100) by FEDEX express with free cost in one week time, after the parts is sent out then we will submite the tracking number on eBay at first; if that is not acceptable, then we will cancel the order and issue full refund to you right away, as you know, the price we sold before was real low, now every electric components arrise 20%-30%, however, if you cancel the order now and would like it in the future, when all arrive to USA warehouse, we can keep one for you at the same price & you can pay it again, tks.
Please confirm it as soon as possible, thank you!

i told them to ship me the free parts and the inverter, of course...

This kinda goes right along with my statement that there is nothing in a PJ inverter that you can use to make a "better" inverter with.

If you replace the entire boardset with the "5500W" board, then you're left with the main weakness: the transformer.  And if you replace the transformer, then there's nothing but the chassis with mounting holes that don't fit either your new board or the transformer.

Worth noting: that "5500W" board uses 3x HY4008 FETs per quadrant.  Comparatively rated, they're good for 153A continuous @ 100C (= 153 * 3 = 459A)...compared to the 8x RUH1H150R FETs per quadrant on a PJ inverter...rated at 106A continuous @ 100C (= 106 * 8 = 848A).  The main difference will be in the FET driving--because there's no bones that the FET drive on a PJ inverter is very poor.  If the "5500W" board has solid FET driving, you might get more power out of it.  

Maybe.

Look at those caps.  PJ uses (4-8) 80v, 10,000uF caps...which are physically large, and have a decent ripple current rating.  That "5500W" board has six 63v, 1500uF caps--that are going to have an extremely miniscule ripple current rating, and likely won't last too long under heavy load.

Worth noting that the "5500W" board is very curiously rated just under the ~6-7kw threshold at which FET driving just seems to go haywire.

Those eBay boardsets are based around the EG8010 controller chip.  A crude but effective Chinese-designed ASIC; it has actually been heavily tinkered with on TheBackShed forums--but they eventually gave up on it due to the bugs and issues with it, and designed their own controller board.

wow they do sell a 10,000 watt inverter board for about $156 or so also... vs the 5500 watt one the youtube commentor was utilizing....

its interesting, but i have never dug into trying to solder pieces into one yet! more of a bolt it together type of DIY person. with diy lifepo4 cells into larger battery builds....

inverter is still my weakest link....

thanks for your replies....😎

Posted Saturday at 07:45 AM

wow they do sell a 10,000 watt inverter board for about $156 or so also... vs the 5500 watt one the youtube commentor

The youtube  show the AMG  12000 watt can not run a  room AC  and he  decide not to  do L1  N  L2  to run the house .  He think PJ is limiting the inverter via software  to not blowup the FETs .    I  found on ebay  a 60v inverter board  that would match my ASL9.0  36vac transformer  for  80 dollars .   It should be easy to  wire for 240v ac 60 hz  single  phase .   The rev 11.1  and rev 11.3 PJ  control board  is useless for  inductive load .    

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I will repeat again: the software has NOT changed since the Microchip PIC MCU appeared on the picture several years ago.  It's purely a hardware change, and most likely the "charge amp limit" circuit on v11.

the 2nd PowerJack 26000 watt 48-volt lf sp psw amg version inverter has an asl5 tag on it...

just popped off the top and checked it out as it arrived yesterday via ups and the box was a bit tattered.

the only thing i found was the white covered wire going to the circuit breaker on the front had the connection broken off... so not functional at the moment.

there are 4 white covered wires but this is the only one that goes to the breaker on the front....

93 pounds

more later,,,,😎 

raining out so a bit of inside stuff today...... dryer than popcorn farts so the rain is welcomed...🤣

here is the asl5 tag pics

this ASL5 seems to be a rather large transformer and a lot bigger than what comes in the 20000 or 16000 AMG inverters...

i would shy from the 12000, 16000, and 20000, amg versions; but have higher hopes the larger 26000 amg version may be the better choice for the budget.... especially if you score them on eBay auction for a lower price as I did!!!

it must be the sean thing of buying a second one as back-up....

dont like being in the dark in the winter (ice storm did that to me one year) when grid-connected...off-grid is more reliable...

i have a brick building (old bank building) that i am going to put solar in this summer (maybe....)

lots of projects.....still waiting for good weather for outside projects....

cheers all, 😎

best to open them up as you never know how hard the UPS, etal throws your stuff around....🤣

PowerJack 26000W LF SP PSW AMG Version inverter:

so it says 32 volt input??? on the transformer tag?? I am using LifeP04 which will be 3.2volt x16 = 51.2 volts nominal but normally will be closer to 3.4 x 16 = 54.4 volts.. (I never get it close to 3.2 volts --- Knock on wood)

48-volt PowerJack LF SP PSW AMG version 26000W (advertised at a rated at 13000 watts continuous) trying to understand it better.... they say 54.4 volts DC current goes into the control boards/inverter boards and is converted to 32 volt AC which goes to the primary winding of the toroidal transformer and then the toroidal transformer secondary winding puts out 120 or 240 volts AC...the 120 being from the center tap of the secondary winding of the transformer and the 240 volt AC is each end of the secondary of the transformer... correct????

yes i understand it will likely not do the 13000 watts continuous.... maybe more like a model number in the chinesium math....🤣🤣🤣🤣 ((( i think my abicus works better than theirs)))

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so it has to go from an approximate 54 volt DC input from the LiFePO4 battery bank to 32 volt AC via the control boards with the mosfets and heat sinks and  high voltage capacitors......which is then transformed(stepped up) to 240 or 120 volt AC.... correct??? the large capacitors basically store a charge to help the mosfet transform the DC voltage from the LiFePO4 battery to AC voltage sent out to the large toroidal transformer..... in a simplistic how it works understanding ( i keep trying to learn more ) 

thanks for any replies....

from a South Dakota off-grid farm boy by heart!😎