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It took 29 days from order date to arrive from China. I opened up the case to look at the components, but have not tested it yet. From the dates inside, it seems to have been built to order on December 29, 2021. It's the 24V split phase "4000 watt continuous" AMG version, and I'm hoping to power a 230V 1/2hp well pump, in case of grid failure. Three questions. 1)Is anybody familiar with the 7 pin amphenol type "110 V" plug? 2) Can I tweek the output voltage with the "L" potentiometer? 3) When I wire the universal power block for US 230V, do I jumper the N1 and N2 and then run a single wire from them to act as the ground to the pump? Thanks.
I just saw the Genetry "Thor's Notebook" video on YouTube, and my 7-pin mystery plug must be for a remote LCD screen.
3) When I wire the universal power block for US 230V, do I jumper the N1 and N2 and then run a single wire from them to act as the ground to the pump?
NO NO NO Jump N1 and N2 to ground will cause a short and blow the fuse IF wired for 240 vac . IF wire for 110v then N1 and N2 can go to ground if wire for RV and will NOT be a floating neutral . This AMG is not design for L! N L2 but will work if wire direct to your well pump L1 L2 and ground is connected to the inverter chassis . Grounding is complicated for inverter and generator . IF your well pump need more than 2000 watts the rev 11.1 control board may shut down the inverter with red light alarm .
Thanks. So the L1 and L2 should power the pump, and the ground wire for the submerged well pump should run from the ground terminal on the back of the inverter?
10 hours ago, RobertM said:1)Is anybody familiar with the 7 pin amphenol type "110 V" plug?
Like <a contenteditable="false" data-ipshover="" data-ipshover-target="/profile/49-dickson/?do=hovercard" data-mentionid="49" href="/profile/49-dickson/" rel="">@dickson said, this is for their LCD board.
10 hours ago, RobertM said:2) Can I tweek the output voltage with the "L" potentiometer?
What "L" potentiometer are you referring to? On the control board internally?
10 hours ago, RobertM said:3) When I wire the universal power block for US 230V, do I jumper the N1 and N2 and then run a single wire from them to act as the ground to the pump?
As long as you remove the other jumper wire--i.e. follow the "220v AMG" wiring diagram with just the single jumper wire between the "N1" and "N2" (no other jumper wires--common electrical sense).
Technically you can. But first remember: the inverter is NOT a ground source. The pump ground should go to an electrical ground; you can also wire that same ground to the inverter chassis. If you wanted to ground the inverter "neutral", that would be fine as well.
I will be very surprised if the inverter is capable of 4kw continuous. A much more reasonable continuous output expectation would be 2kw.
13 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:I will be very surprised if the inverter is capable of 4kw continuous. A much more reasonable continuous output expectation would be 2kw.
That would be OK, as it's a 1/2 hp pump that supposedly draws less than 1000 volts once it has started. Once I have tested it, I'll report back.
Can you provide a photo of the control board pot?
If there's 2 knobs, the other will adjust the internal battery voltage setpoints. Differentiating is as simple as twisting one of them...if the output voltage doesn't change, put it back where it was, and twist the other one.
There's no science/rhyme or reason for the voltage adjustment...you'll just have to fire the inverter up with the cover off, and twist the knob while measuring the output voltage.
You can ground the Neutral jumper wire on N1 - N2 if you want. Not going to hurt anything. Just remember that the inverter is not a ground source 😉. And use common electrical sense; the 4 output terminal wires are basically 2 transformer secondaries. Wired in parallel for 120v, wired in series for 240v.
That would be OK, as it's a 1/2 hp pump that supposedly draws less than 1000 volts once it has started. Once I have tested it, I'll report back.
1000 watts, I mean.
Can you provide a photo of the control board pot?
OK, I'll post a photo later today
Maybe I'm going a little off topic now, but whilst we are on the subject of wattages I noticed that the casing of your '8000w AMG' inverter looks more like the '6000w 230v' that they used to sell on ebay UK.
So I had a look on the ebay US website and sure enough the '8000w split phase': https://www.ebay.com/itm/403247207055 looks like the '6000w single phase' 230v unit I have seen for sale on the UK ebay site before (no listings at present for comparison).
The '10000w split phase' unit https://www.ebay.com/itm/403127622433 looks identical in casing size etc. to the 8000w single phase 230v that they sell on ebay UK: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373439121334 (thats the one I have).
Is there some reason for this difference or it just some more dodgy chinese maths? I'm not sure whether the 'split phase' thing makes the same size inverter somehow able to miraculously produce more output than a single-phase 230v unit??
Maybe I'm going a little off topic now, but whilst we are on the subject of wattages I noticed that the casing of your '8000w AMG' inverter looks more like the '6000w 230v' that they used to sell on ebay UK.
It shipped as 43 lbs, and seems to have a pretty hefty transformer. I'll post a photo of the transformer, later, as well.
Is there some reason for this difference or it just some more dodgy chinese maths? I'm not sure whether the 'split phase' thing makes the same size inverter somehow able to miraculously produce more output than a single-phase 230v unit?
You are not off topic . The new AMG with 6 wires transformer with 2 secondary 120v windings is better for single phase 120vac . Your 8 kw 230 vac single phase 50 hz produce more output than the AMG wired as split phase L1 N L2 . The AMG should only be wire L1 and L2 and Ground for 240vac 60 hz single phase OR 120vac single phase . The old 5 wires transformer has one secondary winding and a center tap is good for split phase L1 N L2 . AMG is not recommended for L1 N L2 .