Just got my new PJ LFPSW-8000 Inverter

Thats a good point actually, and you mentioned it before but it escaped from my little brain since!

However I would be surprised if they could get enough turns of suitable gauge wire on a ASL2 core to do more than 3kW. There's not a lot of space left in the centre of my ASL3, and as mentioned before that can't do more than 3.5kW continuous without getting hotter than I am comfortable with.

If they have used 3mm dia wire on the output that would certainly help reduce heat buildup, but then it's harder to get as many turns of that on a small core so that might become a limiting factor.

Can anyone confirm this AMG split phase inverter is wired properly for 230V?

59 minutes ago, RobertM said:

Can anyone confirm this AMG split phase inverter is wired properly for 230V?

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On the outside anyway 😉

It's a PJ, better hope the inside's wired right....

It tested fine in the original AMG 115V jumper configuration, but not after I set it up as above. I don't seem to have any 230V output.

It tested fine in the original AMG 115V jumper configuration, but not after I set it up as above. I don't seem to have any 230V output

If voltmeter measure  120vac  between  1 and 2   and  measure  120vac between  3 and 4   then  between 1 and 4  has to be  240 vac   if  one  jumper  between  2 and  3 .

1 and 2 should be 120vac  and  3 and 4 should be  120vac  also .    I do not  understand  why no  240 vac .    

Like @dickson hinted, check the 2 phase outputs with a multimeter.  There's 2 possible issues here:

1. (most likely): If you measure 115vAC across terminals 1-2 and 3-4, yet 0v across terminals 1-4, then PJ got the internal AC phase mixed up at the factory, so the 2 windings are canceling each other out ([+120] - [+120] = 0).  Instead of jumpering terminals 2-3 for 230vAC output, jumper EITHER 1-3 OR 2-4 (reversing phase of one winding.)  Should give you then 230vAC across the 2 terminals you DIDN'T jumper together.
2. If only 1-2 OR 3-4 has 115vAC on it, then there's an internal wiring fault and one winding isn't connected to the terminal.

Worth noting that if the original "115v wiring" worked, then it's likely issue #2, with only one winding working.  Reversed internal winding phase would result in a dead short across the transformer output if the 2 windings were paralleled.

Thanks for all the input. I'm going to test the batteries, and see how far they discharged, test the inverter in both modes, charge the batteries, and add a second battery bank.  Finally connect to the pump and try again.

Still no luck pumping water with my new LFPSW-8000 inverter. The pump will start for a split second, and then the inverter seem to shut down. It will initially measure 115V on each hot wire, but then no power after a start attempt. There is a start capacitor in the pump control box, and I wonder if that is coming in to play. When the inverter shuts down, I can turn it off, then back on, and it seems fine. Plenty of battery capacity (I think), ~170 AH @ 24V. 

A 1/2hp 230V 3-wire well pump (like mine) are supposed to be the very easiest to start. The amps when running are just 6.0, and the starting amps, that you might need for 5 seconds are 21.5.

I've ordered a clamp meter, that will arrive Monday, and I will test the electrical surge both when the pump is running with grid power, and then, when I try to start it via the Powerjack inverter.  I can also expand the battery capacity another 40% more.

170AH at 24V is very little for sustaining more than 1kW, let alone the startup surge of a large motor. I have 600Ah of gel batteries at 24v for my Upower '8k' at which I sometimes have sustained loads of up to 3.6kW on. Even then, the battery terminal voltage drops slightly below 24v after a few minutes if there is no solar input.

I suspect your inverter might be cutting out because the motor startup surge causes the DC voltage to drop below the cut-off threshold momentarily due to the undersized batteries and internal resistance thereof. Also what gauge of cable are you using to connect the batteries to the inverter? I would recommend 70mm2 or thicker.

Also if it only has 3 capacitors on the mainboard (like mine did), adding a 4th one in the empty position may help.

I suspect your inverter might be cutting out because the motor startup surge causes the DC voltage to drop below the cut-off threshold 

Yes the DC voltage drop  when I  use the microwave with the rev 11.1  control board  .    I  connect  a kill a watt meter  and find the  ac voltage drop  from  118vac to  99vac and the  microwave  shut down  after 6 seconds  with red light alarm .      The old rev 10.3 control board can start the  microwave  3000 watts  or can start  a 5 hp air compressor . 

This is a 2 year old  PJ  12v  8000 watt  inverter .  I  add  6  more capacitors  externally  and   now  will start the  microwave  but not the  air compressor .   I  think  PJ  design the  rev 11.1  control board  to  shut down  when  it see a  huge  surge  ?    Your AMG  should start  a 1/2  hp  well pump  but  maybe a 8000 watt AMG only output  2000 watts and  3 capacitors is not enough ?     Use a kill a watt meter to check  a  120vac line  and how much it drop  with the well pump .    

Thanks. I will try to determine the DC voltage drop. I'm using 2 gauge copper cable, which the references seem to accept. They're only about 2 feet long. Next time, will add another 70AH to the battery capacity.

My inverter only has 2 caps, but I saw places outlined on the board for more. Do the mainboard caps boost the surge power? I also have a starting capacitor on the pump control, and have toyed with idea of upgrading that when I run the inverter. I couldn't find much online about doing that, but one source wrote not to increase it over 20%.

I'll have a clamp meter soon, and will do more testing. I would be happy to add capacitors (have only 2 on mainboard) , if that would boost my starting amps.