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want to power a 1/2hp 240V 3-Wire pump. My initial attempts were failures. The inverter shut down within a few seconds. a 230v pump motor draws 9 amps when it's running, probably it's 3/4 to 1 horsepower .
The 1/2 hp pump at 5 amps is 1200 watts and should start . Try to start a microwave oven which is 3000 watts . Try 4/0 cable copper wires . The battery connection inside may be loose . Try turn on a hair dryer first and then turn on the pump second . Your inverter look the same but mine 8 kw PJ is different .
The well pump is less than 15A to start, and it also has a start capacitor in the pump control box. My guess the starting surge is about 3000W. I will try again when it's cooler. I recently learned how to start my 800W 115V refrigerator, and it was your hair dryer trick.
I recently learned how to start my 800W 115V refrigerator, and it was your hair dryer trick.
My 8kw PJ with the rev 10.3 control board can run a 5 hp air compressor by running it on the grid for 2 minutes to charge the capacitor then connect directly th the 8 kw PJ to run the 5 HP shop compressor . Running 2 minutes on grid is a trick to charge the capacitor on the compressor and it also work to start the 4 ton heat pump with my 15kw PJ with the rev 10.3 control board . I run the heat heat pump 3 minutes on grid and then switch to directly connect to the 15 kw PJ . I found that my 15kw PJ advertise on ebay auction was actually a 20 kw PJ prototype from Walnut with the ASL9.0 transformer . Your 8kw PJ should easily start any 1/2 hp motor buy never know what is actually inside any PJ case .
Your 8kw PJ should easily start any 1/2 hp motor buy never know what is actually inside any PJ case .
It has 2 big caps and the ASL-2 transformer. I am slowly learning the tricks, so my next attempt might work.
My 10k upower is also 2 caps and asl2.
Running RU7088 FETs which failed fairly quickly
I suspect it was during pump start as that was my only load and running current doesn't get it hot.
I wasn't watching it
I wouldn't expect the choke to help.
My clamp meter showed a 56A inrush current when running it from utility power so the initial pulse is very heavy
I suspect it was during pump start as that was my only load and running current doesn't get it hot.
I have a 1/2hp pump meant to be protected by a 15A fuse. Wouldn't that mean the inrush current would be less than 15A?
Inrush can be well above fuse as it takes time to heat the fuse
Inrush can be well above fuse as it takes time to heat the fuse
I'll continue to try to start and run the pump. I'll add a choke, and just replace the mosfet boards, if they blow. Live and learn. My initial problem was probably voltage sag, but I think I've solved that.
I'll continue to try to start and run the pump. I'll add a choke, and just replace the mosfet boards, if they blow. Live and learn.
I learn enough in testing the rev 11.1 control board that I never blow up any FETs . I overload with 240v 30 years oven and 240v water heater and 5 hp air compressor and 4 ton heat pump and always red light alarm in one second . I will be surprise if your rev 11.3 control board will blow up a single FETs . The rev 10.3 or rev 9.0 control board is a different story as I blow up over 100 FETs in testing . The overload last 7 seconds and all the FETs will blow up and I have to manually shut down before 5 seconds to save the FETs .
I will be surprise if your rev 11.3 control board will blow up a single FETs .
I'll do my pump testing once I finish the 115V house wiring and such. The odd thing is that Power Jack is suddenly warning us recent buyers (after we buy, with stickers on the inverter) to buy their chokes. Maybe it's to make extra money, and to limit their liability if the inverter fails. I wish I knew if the smaller aftermarket choke was enough.
I bought 5 20A 50uH chokes for $13 total. I plan to put one on each inverter output hot and neutral line.