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when any cell in the lifepo4 battery reaches 3.55 volts for a predetermined time the sbms0 turns off charging via sense wires to the dssr20's.
3.55 volts is where the lifepo4 cell is at 99 percent state of charge....
i don't know if that makes sense to you but i believe or think that an opto-solator to switch a higher voltage from the stock PowerJack switch from a much lower voltage low amperage SBMS0 ext i/o connections would maybe a workable solution...
An opto-isolator would PROBABLY work, but like I wrote above, you have to pick an opto-isolator rated for ~80-100v. MOST cheap readily-available opto-isolators are rated at less than 50v, and will not work.
The 'arduino relay modules' are pre-built and ready to go, pretty cheap, and available from just about every place imaginable, certainly Amazon. Connect module's built in opto to the GPIO line on the SBMS0 and SBMS0 ground; connect 5v power to module, connect PJ switch contacts to appropriate relay contacts. Done. If you don't mind no isolation between the relay coil and SBMS power you don't even need the separate 5v power supply, but make sure the module has the protection diode.
Don't fart around working out what opto to buy when all the heavy lifting has already been done.
ok I ordered an arduino uno r3; an expansion break out board for it with screw terminals, relay modules(2 of them), and a dupont connector assortment,,,it is good for 30 volts dc (the relays) so should work with a lifepo4 battery that is normally around 27 volts with the sbms0 running the show....maybe in a few weeks I can report back after the pieces and parts arrive if this cures the lack of control on the standard on/off switch for the PowerJack... at least for the 24 volt inverter at the moment.
did not see a 48 volt compatible relay but they are probably there... one small step at a time,,, but this will be a huge improvement once it is cured....
the ability to automatically and accurately shut down the discharging at cell level discharge to protect the lifepo4 battery!! that is one of the most important features.... if you ask me.... the LiFePO4 batteries are worth more than 10 powerjack 15000 watt inverters....
it will be 5v input ,,,, i can get that with the small buck converters units directly via the battery...then the sbms0 can use the ext i/o sense wires to shut the inverter down,,,, with a few more wire connections to the arduino uno r3 with relay module....cost was about 38 dollars with tax delivered with a bunch extra dupont jumper wires(120 of them) and a lot of your help..
amazon had 2 vendors i chose and ebay had 2 vendors i chose for the parts,,,,sometimes ebay is better and sometimes amazon...it it cheaper on aliexpress sometimes or other routes if you want to wait many weeks for delivery... ebay and amazon was about a week or less projected delivery....
thanks for the guidance...😎
i have never had an arduino before!
the ability to automatically and accurately shut down the discharging at cell level discharge to protect the lifepo4 battery!! that is one of the most important features.... if you ask me.... the LiFePO4 batteries are worth more than 10 powerjack 15000 watt inverters.
Every day I go outside to shut down my inverter and recharge each ev car battery at midnight as battery in series where one maybe 28v and the other be 16v and undervoltrage and need to be recharge with a ebike charger at night . The single battery in parallel string will drop to 44v and is ok . People going off grid like me find out now that battery is the most expensive and require the most work and time . I know how to program an arduino and maybe use one to monitor the batteries and maybe sound a loud alarm but not connect to a powerjack switch .
i have never had an arduino before!
Not sure why you ordered actual arduinos? Do you plan on doing something with them?
The 'arduino relay modules' are pre-built and ready to go, pretty cheap, and available from just about every place imaginable, certainly Amazon. Connect module's built in opto to the GPIO line on the SBMS0 and SBMS0 ground; connect 5v power to module, connect PJ switch contacts to appropriate relay contacts. Done. If you don't mind no isolation between the relay coil and SBMS power you don't even need the separate 5v power supply, but make sure the module has the protection diode.
NO programing needed . Connect module's built in opto to the GPIO line on the SBMS0 and SBMS0 ground .
maybe i bought something wrong that was not needed???
have to look closer at the arduino relay module directions,,, hope i did not buy things not needed??? would not be the 1st time....
i will send you some details of what i ordered to try to shut off the inverter automatically via the sbms0 ext i/o sense wires....
MCIGICM 2 Channel DC 5V Relay Module for Arduino UNO R3 DSP ARM PIC AVR STM32 Raspberry Pi with Optocoupler Low Level Trigger Expansion Board
the above is the relay module but is says it is for the arduino.... from amazon.... for $6.99
UNO R3 ATmega328P ATmega16U2 Development Board & USB Cable for ARDUINO
the uno r3 is the uno r3 above from ebay could not do the link readily for $11.95
is there some better simple way.... i likely ordered the wrong parts....🤔🤔🤣🤣😢😢
thanks for the guidance.....
• There are inverters that don’t have a remote trigger circuit, but do have a physical on/off switch. In this case, you can control the switch with an EXTIO circuit, which will allow the SBMS0 to turn the inverter on and off. This is best done with an SSR, sized for the switch voltage & current, to provide RF & voltage isolation (see Section 5.3). You may also want to remove or otherwise lock-out the original switch, because if it gets accidentally left on, the SBMS0 won’t be able to turn off the inverter at low battery.
above from sec5.6 of a user manual written by oberon for electrodacus sbms0...
the powerjack switch seems to fit into the above problem needing a solution. to break the power or turn off the inverter with .
sect 5.3 below says:
5.3 Switched trigger circuits: above 50mA If your devices are on/off triggered, and the total switching current needed on one EXTIO port is above 50mA, then you will need a relay — ideally, an optically-isolated solid-state relay (SSR). Here are some examples to choose from: • The SSR-25DD and DC60S5 are panel-mounted options. They’re overkill for most applications, but easy to use. • The CPC1706 is a good choice for many circuits, and has a maximum load current of 4A, but it needs to be soldered into perfboard or other circuit board. If you need to reverse the on/off signal, which is common for EXTIO Type 3, 4, & 5, you can use the CPC1705 or other normally-closed SSR. • The 817 optocoupler board, available on Amazon, is popular, but not particularly high-quality. Remove the red jumpers if you use it. In order to power the relay, you’ll need to connect the EXTIO+ through a resistor to your positive distribution busbar, and the EXTIO− to the SSR input positive. Then connect the SSR input negative to your negative busbar. Your device(s) can now be switched by the SSR load terminals. You can also add more than one SSR in parallel on a single EXTIO as long as the total draw is under 50mA. The size of the resistor depends on the minimum switching current that’s required by the SSR. For example, a CPC1706 requires 5mA to activate, so for a 24V battery, the resistor can be a maximum of 24V ÷ 0.005A = 4,800 . Ω To give a safety margin, you may want to size it around 3,000 . Then to check the power rating for the resistor, V Ω 2 /R = 242 ÷ 3000 0.2W, so with a ≈ healthy safety margin, a 0.5W resistor will work well.
the user manual v6 by oberon has pictures and is 40 pages in a pdf version... i think the ext io number 4 (+ and - ) on the Electrodacus SBMS0 is the one dedicated for turning off the load (discharge from the inverter in my setup)...
the manual by oberon pdf hyperlink address above
hope this helps you so you can better understand what i am trying to get done without damaging the SBMS0 or the expensive LiFePO4 battery...
some of the terminology makes my head spin in all this...
The 817 optocoupler board, available on Amazon, is popular, but not particularly high-quality.
The 817 will not work, for reasons I mentioned above (namely, 35v maximum voltage; the PJ switch leg will have battery positive, or ~55v on it).
the above is the relay module but is says it is for the arduino.... from amazon.... for $6.99
The relay module saying "Arduino Uno R3" is simply the typical "keyword bomb" used on most listings. Sellers just throw as many "possibly viable" keywords into the listing title as possible, in hopes that a search term will hit at least one of them. This definitely doesn't mean that you have to buy every single item listed in the title! (In this case, you won't need the Uno R3.)
The basic premise is that you need some way to control a 55v signal from a small control output. The biggest issue with all of this is that the SBMS0's output control device is simply listed as an "SSR" on the schematic--and no part number is given. If this is an electrically isolated device, then what's the maximum switching voltage/amperage it supports? If it isn't an electrically isolated device, the circuit requirements got quite a bit more more complicated (as now you have to electrically isolate the output signals from the SBMS).
Further complicating things is the fact that the SBMS0 does not support 48v systems. If you use 2 SBMS units (one per 24v half), then your "power on off" circuit just got 4 times more complicated. Now you have to handle 2 control signals (possibly at completely different voltage levels, depending on whether the SBMS0 "SSR" device is electrically isolated or not and what it's max voltage rating is)...as the inverter can only be "on" if BOTH SBMS units are saying "all good."
Some of the other SBMS offerings (all max 24v) don't even have the "SSR" on the control output--instead, the CPU I/O lead goes directly to a connector--and you're responsible for any switching control of an output device. Not exactly a DIY-friendly option--unless you use 2 of the SSR units that they recommend.
The reason I bring this up is because the quotation you made above says "maximum 50mA", and recommending an SSR, etc., etc.--this makes it sound like there is NO SSR on the board (despite having it ID'd as "SSR2" on the SBMS0 schematic), and you're dealing with a direct CPU output (as shown on the SBMS100 / SBMS60 schematics).
here are a few pics, the cat 6 24awg sense wires to the sbms0 and the 15000 watt 3pc powerjack which is a 24-volt inverter.... but still need to control the switch via the ext io connection at the side of the sbms0 with cat 6 sense wires...
i have 4 of the sbms0 controlling 4 different batteries two are 2P8S and 2 are 4P8S...
the 4/0 cables from inverters go thru shunts so the sbms0 measures input and output to the batteries at the cell level for each of the 8 cells...
more later, gotta go
sun is out today ,,, yeah
the new battery is a 32 cell 4P and soon 4P8S using 280AH EVE LF280K 6000 cycle rated LiFePO4 cells..
don't mind the mess...
right now i am working to control the 24-volt switch on the 15000 watt powerjack,,,, but this is still something that will have to be done on the 48 volt powerjack also...
they all have the same type of switch just different battery voltage in the wire... correct??
they all have the same type of switch just different battery voltage in the wire... correct??
All the same type of switch and circuit, just the battery voltage is different between 24v and 48v inverters (duh, right?)
What's really important to know is whether your SBMS unit(s) have the "SSR2" device on the PCB, or if it's a direct CPU output. If the SBMS unit(s) have the SSR device on the PCB, what's the part number on the SSR device?
What's really important to know is whether your SBMS unit(s) have the "SSR2" device on the PCB, or if it's a direct CPU output. If the SBMS unit(s) have the SSR device on the PCB, what's the part number on the SSR device?
I will get a SMS0 when back in stock and try something . The PDF show what to do but still something is missing to make it work for Powerjack with 60 volt battery bank . Right now I watch the LED light flickering and go outside at night to recharge the low battery . If the GS 12kw has ATS grid backward then I do not have to go outside at night .