PJ 8000w SP got shorted out

Mine was user error. Period. Both l1 and l2 hit the N at the same time, yes it was hooked up to charge also. Only one side of the boards light up, with or without the driver board installed. The driver boards one white (not sure what it is) thing gets hot fast, and hot enough to dis-color. Only when you turn it on though. 

Only one side of the boards light up, with or without the driver board installed. The driver boards one white (not sure what it is) thing gets hot fast, and hot enough to dis-color. Only when you turn it on though .    

IF  the FETs  blow up after just replacing  all the FETs  then the  mainboard may  be crack or the copper trace burn  and the solder shorted .     A  new rev 11.3  complete mainboard about 200 dollars and  rev 11.3 control board 95 dollars  will repair your inverter .     Parts available from Powerjack in China .    I  upgrade to rev 11.3  system and works good  .     

1 hour ago, JSG said:

Only one side of the boards light up, with or without the driver board installed.

Whoa, that's a huge clue...as when the power switch is off, all four MOS board lights should be on.  Is it the high side (positive battery heatsink) or low side (transformer wire heatsinks)?

Try disconnecting one primary lead of the transformer.  This will help you see exactly which quadrant is at fault.

Any visible heat damage to the rainbow ribbon cable?

2 hours ago, JSG said:

The driver boards one white (not sure what it is) thing gets hot fast, and hot enough to dis-color. Only when you turn it on though. 

"white things" are TLP350 opto-isolated FET drivers.  I'm trying to think how it would get hot when the power switch is turned on--that's really weird.  (Probably indicates the driver board is toast though.)  Assuming you're at 48v?

I have to say, the photo of a driver board early on, showing busted low-side transistor drivers, is somewhat concerning.  The PJ driver board is NOT fully isolated--and as such, damage CAN pass upstream to the control board.  (I've seen holes blown in the CPU.)

Thanks for the clarification. There will be some older PJ inverters listed here for sale soon, but my guess is that you have a newer PJ, and you may not be able to find the newer PJ boards from Genetry Solar. The brand new 6K from Genetry Solar is a good choice.

I took a couple pics, to hopefully know for sure what I need. 

This is the I have been talking about, got shorted out l1+l2 went to N 🤪 I bought it as a return, came all smashed up, but worked great. I also have another sp 8000, but it appears to be an older model, I would like to get it up and going also. But this one first 🤪 And thanks for the help!

One pic is the control board, the one has a banged up crystal on it, but you can see the discoloration on the FET. The other one beside it, is a new one. Gets hot fast on that same fet. 

The MOSFET boards...one side lights up green, the other does not. Does not matter if the driver board is in or not.

I do get the green inverter light on, but no output on either sides. If you do not have the driver board in, it will start beeping after just a short time if you turn it on.

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Sid I just seen this! I will do this today at some point and post the results, thank you!!!!

And ALL the MOSFETs boards exploded like that, all 4 of them.

Sid, it is the positive side that lights up. Both boards, negative side, has nothing.

No heat damage to the ribbon.

Am I able to get my parts thru you guys?

With the negative side disconnected, the board closest to the fan lights up, the other one does not. I am at 24v.

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Unfortunately not...Sean is no longer doing PJ repairs, and as such does not have access to parts.  (And even when he did, any repairs had to be handled through PJ.)  If we produced our own "spare parts", they would not be complementary, as otherwise we'd go broke trying to keep PJ inverters running!

Banged up crystal?  Which FET on the control board are you referring to?

This indicates a hardware issue.  I would suggest:

• removing and checking that particular MOS board that doesn't light up, verify it's good with a diode check.  (LED should light up with a DMM in diode check mode if you measure positive from a FET heatsink and negative to any of the non-gate screw terminals.  Remove it from the inverter first!)
• If the MOS board IS good, then there's a hardware fault somewhere on the mainboard--OR it could be a miswired ribbon cable (if this inverter's never run before).  Try unplugging the rainbow ribbon cable from the control board and see if the LED comes back on.
  • if this is the case, that would explain why the LF Driver board gets so hot--however, I would expect a very hot chip to be a very damaged chip.

Banged up crystal?  Which FET on the control board are you referring to?

Bang up  capacitor ?    TLP350  on LF driver board ?  

Am I able to get my parts thru you guys?

Your  control board  look like rev 11.0 or rev 11.1  from the picture of he ribbon cable  which is no longer availabe from Powerjsck in China .     I think the rev 11.3 control board  AND  a complete rev 11.3 mainboard  will be needed to repair .    Parts avilable from  Powerjack in China .    IF your control  board  is a rev 11.3  then do not need  a complete mainboard .    For unknown reason the  rev 11.3 mainboard ribbon cable  do NOT  match the rev11.1 or rev11.0 or rev10.3 or rev9.0  control board .      

The fet on the far right is discolored from heat. 

No, unplugging the ribbon does not turn that board on. I am going to install a new MOSFET board now, and see if it lights up.

Did you replace all 4 mosboards at the time?

Without testing individually, usually you'd replace all of them whenever one needed replaced.