PLEASE NOTE: If you had an account with the previous forum, it has been ported to the new Genetry website!
You will need to reset the password to access the new forum. Click Log In → Forgot Password → enter your username or forum email address → click Email Reset Link.
no output when the green light is on. infact no output on middle green led or small led on top right of the first picture
What do the APS/UPS wires need to be hooked to. Each other or what else ?
Got 110v output on the 220v output but this is split phase i think i got the wrong board it says 110vac can i just hookup it without the board and get split phase or do i need the 220vac board ? I don't need the charger and from what i read it's not that good anyway. But i do have some output now. Forgot to close my current limit sw. HIHI. I have a 50 ohm resistor to keep from sparking.
Got 110v output on the 220v output but this is split phase i think i got the wrong board it says 110vac can i just hookup it without the board and get split phase or do i need the 220vac board ? I don't need the charger and from what i read it's not that good anyway. But i do have some output now. Forgot to close my current limit sw. HIHI. I have a 50 ohm resistor to keep from sparking.
So the 110v or 220v labeled split-phase boards indicate the charge voltage. Unfortunately, they cannot be swapped, thanks to PJ magic. It may be called the "charge" board, but it's really the AC output board--and is necessary for AC output filtration, load limit, and regulation feedback.
The 110v board requires a control board that's had resistors replaced for 110v feedback...while the 220v board requires control board resistor adjustments for 220v feedback. Kinda have to be matched.
If it's working with the current board...that's the one it needs. If you're getting only 60-some volts out, then it needs a 220v "charge" board. If it's oversaturating and sounding terrible, then it needs a 110v "charge" board.
Man i've made evey error I can make with this thing Ha Ha. Good thing this for fun or I would be mad. 😄
Thanks for the help I still have the old 220v board, Can i keep the main board and just change the AC output board or do i have to change them both ?
Just bought 2 total replacement boards 24v 110v/220v with 220v AC output boards guess thats it for this project
Thanks Sid for all the help along the way really appreciate the time and effort. Sorry I'm new to these type of inverters and as you said there is little to no documentation. I own three of these things so again thanks for all the help Big Bob
Can i keep the main board and just change the AC output board or do i have to change them both ?
Should be able to do that. Not much on the "output board" that could be easily damaged.
It is the the old ver 7.0 220vac board can i use that ?
It is the the old ver 7.0 220vac board can i use that ?
Not 100% sure on that one, but I believe so, as long as the ribbon connector matches up. If it has a 9-10 pin connector for the control board connection...it won't work.
Yeah that's the problem it does have a 9-10 pin connector, I;ll just have to wait for my new boards
Thanks BigBob
I have a new unit 24v 110/220vac It meassures 114vac between L1 an N. It measures offscale on the 250vac scale between N and L2. It measures 253vac between L2 and case ???? any ideas
Looks like a wiring problem on a new unit like this or am i missing sum thing ?
Thanks
I have a new unit 24v 110/220vac It meassures 114vac between L1 an N. It measures offscale on the 250vac scale between N and L2. It measures 253vac between L2 and case ???? any ideas
If it's a PJ, you might want to pop the cover and see what's going on inside...send a photo or 2.