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On the plus side, it ran my microwave and my 15k BTU ac plus it started my compressor. So at least it works at this point lol
Microwave 3000 watts and ac 1000 watts and compressor 1 hp 800 watts . Maybe the v 11 board can do 5000 watts .
I tried making 'em a better LF Driver board, but it reportedly results in instant FET blowups >9kw loads. PJ inverters are quite a song and dance it seems...I left it at that.
A bad LF driver board on my 8kw PJ inverter do not blow the mofets . I put that same bad LF ver 9.0 driver board on my 15kw PJ inverter and instant FET blowup and destroy my 10.3 control board and all 24 mofets . This was a year ago and I will do no more stupid testing .
First, upon testing, I see that she's putting out 115.9v steady on L1, but L2 kinda bounces all over between 110 and 113v. Anything I can do to clean that up even a little?
Yeah. I'd pop one of the large 4.7uF (250v??) caps off the output board, and put it across the other phase of the tranny (L2 - N). The PJ design here is regulating 120vAC on the control board end (not the total 240v), meaning that only the L1 - N phase is filtered. You probably notice that the L2 wire goes directly from the tranny to the front panel, and has no AC filtering of any sort.
If the 2 phases are different voltages, just remember what you bought. We had to be very specific with PJ on the manufacturing of GS inverters, that there is no "1-2 turns tolerance" on GS inverters.
Second, can you tell me (not that I plan on playing with them unless it's necessary) which voltage adjuster controls which, input and output voltage?
The two potentiometers on the control board? Not sure off the top of my head--go ahead and twist 'em to find out. One will adjust the AC output voltage. The other adjusts the battery voltage thresholds--as in, every single one. Gotta love the engineering...
7 hours ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:Yeah. I'd pop one of the large 4.7uF (250v??) caps off the output board, and put it across the other phase of the tranny (L2 - N). The PJ design here is regulating 120vAC on the control board end (not the total 240v), meaning that only the L1 - N phase is filtered. You probably notice that the L2 wire goes directly from the tranny to the front panel, and has no AC filtering of any sort.
Yeah I think these ones are 400v but I'll double check.
I might actually have a few of those, too. Is it safer or better in any way to simply add one to L2-N as you suggest, rather than removing one of the existing ones?
Is there any gain to adding 2 like L1 has now?
K, last Q's for sure lol ☺
I might actually have a few of those, too. Is it safer or better in any way to simply add one to L2-N as you suggest, rather than removing one of the existing ones?
Any gain to adding 2? Might smooth the AC output a tad--but it for sure will increase the inverter's no-load current significantly.
If these caps are too small, you'll get some of the high frequency (24KHz) SPWM hash in the output AC...if they're too big, you'll have extraneous no-load current on the inverter.
Lol K so, I need new fuses 🙄
Have one spot for 220v and one for 110v. Anyone please tell me what I'm looking for so I can order some?
3 hours ago, Glenn S said:Lol K so, I need new fuses 🙄
Have one spot for 220v and one for 110v. Anyone please tell me what I'm looking for so I can order some?
Could you clarify with a photo?
Could you clarify with a photo?
They're the stubby ones, only about 3/4" long. One is ceramic, the other is glass with a serrated filement inside. I'm at work now but I'll get pics when I get home
Could you clarify with a photo?
Here. 1 said 10a the other 20a, but they're not a normal fuse that I've seen so I don't know what to look for to replace them.
Have to say I have no idea what size fuse those are. The PJ inverters on my bench use standard AGC-size fuses.
Might be about time to rip that mess of fuses out and replace it with an AC breaker??
Those actually look like plastic fuses to me, judging by the melted appearance and shape. Cheapest of cheap Chinese stuff...
12 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:Have to say I have no idea what size fuse those are. The PJ inverters on my bench use standard AGC-size fuses.
Might be about time to rip that mess of fuses out and replace it with an AC breaker??
well, I'll be honest, I mean I kinda wondered why they're there. I mean, shouldn't the ac side be handled by my breaker panel?
it's still an interrupt, it's just further down the line by a few feet lol
14 minutes ago, Glenn S said:well, I'll be honest, I mean I kinda wondered why they're there. I mean, shouldn't the ac side be handled by my breaker panel?
it's still an interrupt, it's just further down the line by a few feet lol
It's PJ, it doesn't have to make sense 🤪. Not everyone connects to a breaker panel, so it does make a tad of sense--but not when they use 20A fuses on ONE leg of "8kw" inverters.
It's PJ, it doesn't have to make sense 🤪. Not everyone connects to a breaker panel, so it does make a tad of sense--but not when they use 20A fuses on ONE leg of "8kw" inverters.
Lol can't disagree there. Ok, I'll remove them completely then. Thank again for everyone's input! 😃
Yeah. I'd pop one of the large 4.7uF (250v??) caps off the output board, and put it across the other phase of the tranny (L2 - N). The PJ design here is regulating 120vAC on the control board end (not the total 240v), meaning that only the L1 - N phase is filtered. You probably notice that the L2 wire goes directly from the tranny to the front panel, and has no AC filtering of any sort.
Hi again. K, so, I'm ready to try this cap mod. Can you please clarify which cap to remove from which board and place where, with a photo? I just don't want to screw up what is currently my only LF inverter lol.
Is the process similar to this vid?
Also, I never did find that led4 on this v11 board. I'm assuming they've deleted it, but if Sid or anyone else has seen it, please let me know where so I can remove it.
Having the over heating issues that so many do, so I've ordered another delta fan. It's a 24v fan so I'll run it straight off the inputs so as not to ask anything more of the control board. I've put a hole in the top, right over the tranny, and a hole beneath it as well as removed the retainer. This will allow me to force a shit ton of air through the toroid and should eliminate that problem forever. I've come up with a new retainer that will hold the transformer in place from the outside rather than going through the middle and covering the hole.