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The light on my PJ's Driver Board is not lit and both phases are now "slow" to start up.
Recently, when I start my dryer connected to L1, it's starts up fine. On L2, the dryer struggles to start for one or just shy of 1 second.
Now that is happening on both phases.
I'm seeing "energy" issues on my other appliances as well.
So, I ordered a replacement 7.0 Whole control board (including the charger board) from PowerJackInverter.com. $85, not bad.
I just got an email telling me they do not stock the 7.0.
They offered to send me the new 11.0 board. I would need a new LCD for $30. They also asked me for a Photo of the AC side of the inverter.
I don't have the one or two micro rotary switches like the new ones. I have the one micro Rotary knob for the charging selection.
Note: email is coming from youlung.com. I have been to that site years ago ( still in my browser history ) but the site is not active now.
So now the questions.
Anyone ever upgrade their electronics from 7.0 to 9/10 or ??
Has anyone heard of an 11.0 board?
Should I try it or look elsewhere ?
Ed.
Opps, forgot to mention.
I have heard of a v11 board (don't have a photo of it handy), but it is very similar to the v10.3/10.4 board. The whole design is very similar to the v7 board you have above--just packaged differently, and different connectors to a lot of things (which is why PJ would suggest you to purchase a new LCD--with the same old design and code, just different signal connectors).
There is next to no originality in Chinese LF inverter designs...which sometimes is an asset, but it also means they all share the same weaknesses...
Looking at the v4.0 LF Driver board I have here (identical to your unit above), the circuit looks very similar to the current LF Driver...although there is an SMT part with a marking I don't recognize ("RA2-"). On the current units, this is an LM431.
It's very hard to figure out what would be causing the inverter to run, yet poorly (without blowing up). The light on the LF Driver board being out is a bit mystifying. Without a 'scope it's nearly impossible to try to figure out what's going wrong though.
By most accounts, the Rev. 3.6 units (which you appear to have there) were fairly reliable. Not sure what's going on.
The driver led is back on. not sure why myself.
attached a pic of that smd..
I do have an old scope. I think it has vacuum tubes.
I used it a few years back to look at the inverter output. The peaks of the sine were a little squiggly.
Ed
opps.... Thats the problem with dragging and dropping a pic.
