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1 hour ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:Care to specify which make/model? A 2-channel Hantek can be had pretty cheaply (comparing!) and they're decent. I have a 4-channel Siglent--again, not terribly expensive, but for what I do a 'scope is a necessity! There's of course the super cheap tiny screen "DSO138" things on eBay/Amazon, but those are the better half of a joke.
I think it was one of the Siglent 4 channel 'scopes. The minimum i needed was 2 channel, so wasn't going to risk one day needing 3...
Cheap of course is relative. But this was after putting up the money for the off-grid equipment and prior to the full onset of winter, which is when my living expenses increase by an order of magnitude - had to call a limit at some point. Scope got caught on the wrong side of that budget call.
Wait, so would you still adjust the tranny at 16.5v? 15 and 16.5 are kinda significantly different by my mind... Maybe just removing a single turn?
The other curiosity is about the choke. This has 4 primary wires, 2 lead to 1 choke, the other 2 have no choke. Should those also have a choke?
39 minutes ago, NotMario said:I think it was one of the Siglent 4 channel 'scopes. The minimum i needed was 2 channel, so wasn't going to risk one day needing 3...
Honestly, I've only ever used the 4 channels once. The biggest issue is that the channels aren't electrically isolated--they're all common grounded. Makes it difficult to need 4 channels on the same power potential!
39 minutes ago, NotMario said:Wait, so would you still adjust the tranny at 16.5v? 15 and 16.5 are kinda significantly different by my mind... Maybe just removing a single turn?
Technically the GS 24v spec is 16vAC primary. 15vAC would give a tad more headroom, but the winding spec doesn't quite work out.
40 minutes ago, NotMario said:The other curiosity is about the choke. This has 4 primary wires, 2 lead to 1 choke, the other 2 have no choke. Should those also have a choke?
Technically...yes (as the SPWM method is bipolar modulation, not unipolar modulation). But in practice, it doesn't seem to make too much of a difference.
Biggest improvement you can make is to ensure there's 2 full turns of transformer wire around the choke--if there's just 1, adding a second turn will significantly reduce no-load current.
1 hour ago, workaholic53 said:The LED on the driver board read out about 2.2 one way OL on the other.
kinda as expected. It should have lit up at 2.2v...I tested one board I've got here, and it lit brightly, with my meter measuring 2.3v.
1 hour ago, workaholic53 said:The LED on the control board is on the battery input end of the control board and below one of the 6 pin components at the LF driver board corner.
6 pin components??? Kinda need a picture of the driver board now...there are no 6-pin parts on the PJ LF Driver board. At least not on the ones I've seen...there's 2, 3, 4, and 8 pin parts.
Unless you're referring to LED3 on the control board? (It lights when I check it as well. Not sure what's up, maybe your meter doesn't have enough oomph? If it runs on 2x AA batteries, that would definitely explain the LEDs not lighting up--as full charge is 2.4v, less circuitry. My current meter runs on a 9v battery.)
1 hour ago, workaholic53 said:Upon further inspection and looking alongside the case the FET LEDs indeed dimmed slightly when the inverter is turned on.
All 4 MOS board LEDs dim/flicker briefly when the inverter's turned on? If one of them doesn't, that's a bit of an issue.
Wow, I am really getting old, 8 pins and the number is hard to read. 3120 (D045). Here is a pic to go with it.
The LED is labeled as LED3 and doesn't light when the inverter is turned on, just rechecked and the low freq driver board LED doesn't light either. My Fluke meter is has a 9V battery. Neither LED lit though they both read at 2.23 on the meter on the diode setting.
Ok so I did a startup with the top off the inverter. The positive ones are bright with the inverter off. When I turn it on they dim slightly then go back to the way they were. The negative side ones start off with the same intensity as the ones on the positive side, then they brighten when inverter is turned on and stay that way. I cycled it on and off several times to be sure.
Whoa, that's a reworked driver board! Normally they have white TLP350 opto-drivers, but it looks like they found ACPL3120 chips to be cheaper 😉. Also clearly hand-soldered in.
Q1 / Q2 are removed and bridged over; those are part of a voltage regulator circuit, obviously bypassed now! I'm surprised they don't lose more FETs due to gate overvoltage...
Still not sure why either LED is lighting.....
...but if all 4 MOS board LEDs flicker when the inverter's turned on, then we're kinda back at square one.
I have half a notion to order a new control board with LF driver board and see if that helps.
I have half a notion to order a new control board with LF driver board and see if that helps.
Not sure it would...they've been shorting out the voltage regulator circuit for some time now. I've never seen the ACPL3120 drivers before, but they're specced almost the same as the TLP350. And considering the number of other customers reporting similar issues with the newer PJ inverters, I would be surprised if replacement parts would solve the issue.
I have half a notion to order a new control board with LF driver board and see if that helps.
Only rev 11.3 control board are available from Powerjack and your control board in your inverter now must be rev 11.3 to not blow up the FETs . A new control board has the LF driver included and maybe output 1400 watts . IF your control board is not rev 11.3 then need the seller to modify the main board cable and connector . I modify my mainboard cable and connector to work with rev 9.x or 10.3 or 11.0 or 11.1 but a lot of work to trace every wire for all the FETs .
The LED is labeled as LED3 and doesn't light when the inverter is turned on, just rechecked and the low freq driver board LED doesn't light either. My Fluke meter is has a 9V battery. Neither LED lit though they both read at 2.23 on the meter on the diode setting. Posted 21 hours ago
I install a rev 11.3 control board to replace the rev 11.1 control board today with modify mainboard ribbon connector to my 15kw with ASL9.0 transformer . Only 2 LED light up so for rev 11.3 the 2 other LED will not light . I only run up to 4000 watt load . The rev 11.1 control board has 4 LED light up . PJ is still mess up and why all the changes ? This 3 year old 15kw originally has rev 9,0 control board .