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Hi
I have a Power Jack spilt phase inverter charger. I did a test start on it before installing it. I put a light load on it only 15 watts at 120 volts according to the display. It got pretty hot and and smelt like burning rubber and there was some smoke coming from the rubber pad that is on top of the transformer. The fan didn't start up as it looks like it doesn't start up till the transformer reaches a certain temperature. I not sure this occurred because it's new. The board version is 10.3.Can you plug the fan directly to the board as i see there is a plug on the board for the fan. I don't really want to play with it. Just wondering if this is normal doesn't seem like it to me. Really don't want to burn the cottage down.
Thanks.
Check the transformer bolt on the bottom of the chassis. There should be a black plastic insulator around it, insulating it from the metal chassis. If that insulator is broken/missing, the bolt will get extremely hot in a few minutes' time (not instantly), and yes, could turn into a fire hazard.
If the insulator is missing, and you are planning to mount the inverter to a table of sorts (i.e. not wall mount), you could simply remove the offending bolt...though now the transformer will not be as firmly secured in place. (NOTE: Do not ship the inverter anywhere without this bolt--the transformer moving around will pretty well destroy it.)
Plugging the fan directly into the board likely will not work, as the board's output is 12v--and the fans are likely 24 or 48v (depending on the battery voltage you selected). Worse, the fans only turn on if ONE of the 2 temperature sensors reaches overtemp.
13 hours ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:Worse, the fans only turn on if ONE of the 2 temperature sensors reaches overtemp.
Isn't that correct operation? Either sensor turns on the fan? Maybe I misunderstood....
Not that I'm a fan of powerjack's fan controls. Sometimes they aren't on when things are hot. Sometimes they come on for no apparent reason. That's why I always add independent fan controls to my powerjacks.
Isn't that correct operation? Either sensor turns on the fan? Maybe I misunderstood....
For the CPU temperature sensors, you would THINK that either of them could turn the fans on.
Nope. Both can shut the inverter down...but only one can turn the fan on.
Unless they're using a code revision I provided to them last year that adds that functionality...
Not that I'm a fan of powerjack's fan controls. Sometimes they aren't on when things are hot. Sometimes they come on for no apparent reason. That's why I always add independent fan controls to my powerjacks.
You're probably experiencing the lovely thermal bimetallic switch packaged in a sort of "TO-220" package, glued to the transformer. The poor switch can't be rated for more than 30vDC...no wonder it sticks when given 60vDC at much higher amperage than it's rated for...
Yeah, I learned early in the game not to trust pj to turn on the fans. Heat is the arch-enemy of electronics.
On another note, my older model powerjacks did not come with the plastic insulator on the transformer bolt. It was never a problem. Why is it a problem now? Something must have changed....
Eddy, I hope you figured out the problem. If the rubber was smoking, the plastic insulator might have melted. Was the bolt tight? Had the transformer shifted position?
As Sid said, If you don't plan on moving the inverter, removing the bolt is the best plan for long term use. Make very sure the transformer windings are not touching the case or any metal, top or bottom. If you do remove the bolt, you can remove the top plate and rubber, allowing for better transformer cooling. I go a step farther and raise the transformer up about 3/4 of an inch on some foam or rubber blocks to increase airflow under and around it. (Probably more than you want to try....)
On another note, my older model powerjacks did not come with the plastic insulator on the transformer bolt. It was never a problem. Why is it a problem now? Something must have changed....
Older PJ inverters just had a single bolt down the middle of the transformer to hold it in place. But it wasn't quite sufficient to hold a 50lb transformer in place if the inverter got dropped in shipping--so PJ switched to a "spider mount" as we call it, with 4 legs on the outside to hold it down better. The issue with that is that now there's a full metal "loop" around the transformer--which will considerably reduce efficiency and generate a heap of heat with the transformer bracket. The insulator on the bolt breaks this "loop" so it can do its job of holding the tranny, not burning up power.
Is the spider made of steel or the like? I'm wondering if there would still be a magnetic shunt effect going on with just a separator between the bolt and the spider itself. I don't have much to do with torodial transformers so this is just idle talk, not important 🙂
Is the spider made of steel or the like? I'm wondering if there would still be a magnetic shunt effect going on with just a separator between the bolt and the spider itself. I don't have much to do with torodial transformers so this is just idle talk, not important 🙂
It is a stainless steel bracket. An insulator breaks the "loop", so the bracket won't mess with the transformer power.
If you make a full loop through the center of the core, and over the outside, you'll get one turn's voltage. Putting one meter probe through the center of the core, and shorting the two probes out on the other end will show you ~0.5-2v depending on the transformer's core size and winding specification--and if that power is shorted out through the bracket, it'll get the bracket EXTREMELY hot in a few minutes' time. Done it myself 😉
I Did notice when I unpacked the inverter there was a broken piece of black plastic in the bag. But I couldn't see any thing that was broken or missing. I"ll get a insulator and put it under the bolt and try it out. I'll see if that works.
Thanks Eddy
I Did notice when I unpacked the inverter there was a broken piece of black plastic in the bag.
That's quite suspect, and would definitely cause the issue you're having. The little plastic insulator has to completely insulate the bolt from the chassis, otherwise it'll smoke pretty good.
Like I said earlier.........
If the insulator is missing, and you are planning to mount the inverter to a table of sorts (i.e. not wall mount), you could simply remove the offending bolt...though now the transformer will not be as firmly secured in place. (NOTE: Do not ship the inverter anywhere without this bolt--the transformer moving around will pretty well destroy it.)
Hi Everyone
Well I ended up making 2 insulating washers from a stock of nylon one for the bottom one for the top don’t know if I needed one for the top but hey I was on a roll and made 2. Only thing I changed was the bolt size I went to a 1/4-20 bolt with the nylon sleeve fit perfectly. So the moment of truth started it up and it never heated up😀. Funny thing with the missing insulator on the bolt wasn’t lose it was tight so I didn’t even think of a insulator missing. Anyway thank you everyone for all the info.
Glad to hear. Will note that you only needed a nylon washer on the bottom where the bolt would otherwise contact the chassis. But it doesn't hurt to double insulate--so that's great that it's working.