New Member.

ATS/UPS switch...let's just say that at best, the PJ AC input handling is extremely poor.  Charge is suspect at best, and blows up at worst.

You can add the switch if you really want to dig into the inverter and add some wires to an XHB header; I can provide a pinout.  Can't guarantee it will work as you want, though.

DIN plug socket on the front is PJ's way of "giving back" the LCD that's been removed from the inverter.  This basically puts the LCD signal and power wires on a remote connector.  I do not have a pinout.

Thanks Sid,

Yeah, I am aware of the questionable thought on PJ. I really would be happy if the manual was for the one that I got instead for
all their stuff crammed into a book with girls on the cover. Makes no sense and give very little direction. Just cant afford the
real pricy ones. It is working now as a plain inverter, 12 volts to 110. If that is all I ever get at 4000 watts I will be happy.

I will trace the pin out for the din plug and figure that one out, Now to get a remote LCD.
I am just going to put my own transfer switch in the mix and hope for the best.
Tom

3 hours ago, TommyJoe said:

Thanks Sid,

Yeah, I am aware of the questionable thought on PJ. I really would be happy if the manual was for the one that I got instead for
all their stuff crammed into a book with girls on the cover. Makes no sense and give very little direction. Just cant afford the
real pricy ones. It is working now as a plain inverter, 12 volts to 110. If that is all I ever get at 4000 watts I will be happy.

I will trace the pin out for the din plug and figure that one out, Now to get a remote LCD.
I am just going to put my own transfer switch in the mix and hope for the best.
Tom

I do know what should be on the DIN plug; whether it's actually there is another story.

There'll be +12v and GND (referenced to battery negative.)

There'll be AC output voltage feedback (this should be from an E-128-LCD-L transformer on the "output" board; rumor has it some of them run 120vAC direct out, which causes instant smoke to any "official" LCD plugged in)

There'll be AC current feedback; this is from the "hall" sensor around (usually) L1, with some load resistors on the "output" board.

2 hours ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:

I do know what should be on the DIN plug; whether it's actually there is another story.

There'll be +12v and GND (referenced to battery negative.)

There'll be AC output voltage feedback (this should be from an E-128-LCD-L transformer on the "output" board; rumor has it some of them run 120vAC direct out, which causes instant smoke to any "official" LCD plugged in)

There'll be AC current feedback; this is from the "hall" sensor around (usually) L1, with some load resistors on the "output" board.

That is correct.

Since you are Admin can you move this line to the correct forum line.

Also a question. I see the same main board referenced in all the inverters from them. 12/24/48 volt and I see four or more pin selectors that can

be moved from 12/24/48 volt. I am correct in assuming all of their volt levels of man boards are the same board?

Having ask that, is it fair to assume all their inverters can be switch to a different voltage level?

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Sure, but where do you want it?  Frankly, I think it's fine right here 😉.

Short answer: No.  Long answer.........

Mainboards for 24v inverters usually use 50v caps (can't use that on a 48v system that runs ~55v)...I have never had a 12v inverter on my bench, but I wouldn't be surprised if those have 25v caps.  In short: can't just "switch voltages" here...not without replacing caps.

MOS boards use lower voltage FETs for 12/24v inverters--despite the "on" resistance often being worse than their "48v" FETs, which is completely counter-intuitive.  Can't just "switch voltages" here either...without replacing FETs.

Control board LARGELY should work at 12/24/48v by changing the jumpers; however, I am aware that the main DC input filter cap (easy to find: the only through-hole electrolytic on the board!) is only 50v for 24v inverters, and they swap it out with a 100v cap for 48v inverters.  Again, without replacing parts...

And last but not least, the tranny has different input voltage spec.  Running a 24v tranny at 48v guarantees smoked crispy FETs (done it with 2 separate inverters).  Works great at no load...but that's about it.

Haha, seeing one of the photos: they FINALLY beefed up the FET that runs the fans to an IRF640...

When taking it out of the box and opening it I found this. I plugged it back in because it seemed to go there. No change to anything but without the proper
manuals for it with correct pictures, oh well

Do you know if there is supposed to be a monitor available for that plug or is it a test point for all of the above?

It has been running for 48 hours now and no smoke. Have it connected to my 10 FoMoCo ML BXT-65-750 batteries. I let it charge them and they are all now at14.4v. It is now doing a float charge at 13.1v.

It has been 110v enable and plugged into my RV/Bus Conversion and running my interior light and freezer.

Today I am going to try out the 110v outputs with a heavier load, my 12500btu A/C fan and then turn the compressor on. If it hold that I will turn it off and
turn on the fan for the 15000btu A/C and then the compressor if nothing blows and see how hard it drains the batteries. Just for load test. I don't plan on
running the A/C from the Inverter but only when plugged into shore power at state parks.

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44 minutes ago, TommyJoe said:

When taking it out of the box and opening it I found this. I plugged it back in because it seemed to go there. No change to anything but without the proper
manuals for it with correct pictures, oh well

Ideally, this'd be a supplementary grounding connector...but instead, it's used as a "charge problem" signal.  Not critical either way.

Glad I found this forum, from watching video's about their product and your products. You have answered more questions and the answers were not in

any of my books. Most everything thing I have done is by trial and error so far. I have it running and working properly I am sure. I did a load test yesterday with my 15000btu roof mounted heat pump air conditioner. It did well! I ran the air conditioner for 10 minutes and it took my batteries down from 12.9 to 12.2 in that time. Highest recorded amperage across the shunt was 148 amps during that time. NO SMOKE! but I an going to have to redo my electrical. The cables from my breaker panel to the batteries go a little hot. BUY, I didn't buy it to run my Air conditioner. It will run my bus devices, refrigerator/freezer and lights, fans and charging devices.

Tom

Hi, I am new here and also new to the solar arena. Looking forward for healthy discussion and knowledge about solar.

We'll do what we can to help answer questions 😉.  Enjoy!