PLEASE NOTE: If you had an account with the previous forum, it has been ported to the new Genetry website!
You will need to reset the password to access the new forum. Click Log In → Forgot Password → enter your username or forum email address → click Email Reset Link.

Electrical Box and ...
 
Notifications
Clear all

Electrical Box and Breakers setup for your GS inverters.

11 Posts
6 Users
0 Likes
283 Views
(@the-blind-wolf)
Prominent Member
Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 878
Topic starter  

Okay, I am installing a breaker box that has no main breaker for the incomeing power, unless you install the standard breaker, which I don't want to do as it would take up 4 slots in my breaker box.  Sincer I run two 6kw GS each one configed as a split 120v output.  which means 2x6=12kw which means 120a.  can anybody point me to a main breaker that comes in its own box, that I can install above the new breaker box.  I'm guessing I need a 150A breaker?  I'll be running two 10 gauge per leg wire to the breaker it self then from it useing a I'm  guessing 6 gaguge between that to the new breaker.

 

I am asuming that I need to keep this new breaker in the same general area as the main grid breaker, so was going to have it mounted on the other wall about 3 foot away from the grid breaker.  That way when I move the wires from the main to the new breaker I'll have plenty of wire and not have to worry about bucking the wires to make up the different in length.  So no worries there.

 

I just want to make it so odd if I ever move out or sell the house the person who gets it will scratch there head on how and why there are two breakers boxes and why there is  wire in another room.  Of course if they are smart they will catch on I'm sure, unless its a old person who don't know about solar lol. .  😛


   
Quote
(@cali-carlos)
Estimable Member
Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 83
 

Posted by: @the-blind-wolf

Sincer I run two 6kw GS each one configed as a split 120v output.  which means 2x6=12kw which means 120a.  can anybody point me to a main breaker that comes in its own box, that I can install above the new breaker box.  I'm guessing I need a 150A breaker?  I'll be running two 10 gauge per leg wire to the breaker it self then from it useing a I'm  guessing 6 gaguge between that to the new breaker.

I'm not sure if I'm following exactly what you're saying but a 120v GS 6 puts out 50 amps and if you're combining 2 in a split phase configuration for 240v it's still 50 amps per leg. 10 gauge wire is usually rated for 30 amps or so, if you're combining 2 that's a 60 amp rating so you'd want you breaker to be rated no more than your wires. You'd want maybe a double pole 60 amp breaker or get thicker wires so you can have a stronger breaker incase you ever unlock your GS in which case in can go over the 60 amps. However if you going through the trouble of all that wiring id suggest maybe a double throw disconnect to prevent another backfeed event from happening.

This post was modified 1 year ago by Cali Carlos

   
ReplyQuote
(@notmario)
Reputable Member
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 314
 

If it's not a subpanel, I'd recommend using a breaker panel that has a master breaker spot. Subpanels are protected by it's master panel, which is why they don't have master breakers.

With you running them in split sync, each will be outputting 50A @ 120V, thus in series will output 50A @ 240v - so you'll need 6AWG wire. 10AWG will eventually fail and become a fire hazard, even if 50A is only reached in short intervals.

FYI, what you're asking about ("main breaker") is called a "[AC] disconnect switch". But i'd still recommend using an all-in-one instead.


   
ReplyQuote
(@the-blind-wolf)
Prominent Member
Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 878
Topic starter  

@notmario Yeah, I'll just get a main breaker.  No, I'm running two 10 gauge wire from each GS. one wire per terminal since both legs are the same 120v phase.   which from what I know is rated to handle 30a.  I highly doubt a 6 will even fit the terminal, a 10 bearly will fit in the termainl on the GS as it is.


   
ReplyQuote
(@notmario)
Reputable Member
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 314
 

Posted by: @the-blind-wolf

@notmario Yeah, I'll just get a main breaker.  No, I'm running two 10 gauge wire from each GS. one wire per terminal since both legs are the same 120v phase.   which from what I know is rated to handle 30a.  I highly doubt a 6 will even fit the terminal, a 10 bearly will fit in the termainl on the GS as it is.

The GS6K will output up to 50A @ 120v.
It should accept 6AWG wire, i use it for both Input and Output.

Did the terminal specs change at some point? 6AWG fits perfectly on mine.

A pair of 10AWG for each should be fine, though.

 

This post was modified 1 year ago by NotMario

   
ReplyQuote
(@steve)
Estimable Member
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 212
 

I had #6 on my 6K


   
ReplyQuote
(@steve)
Estimable Member
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 212
 

All your power goes through the N as well, so it needs to be #6 or 2 #10


   
ReplyQuote
(@dickson)
Noble Member
Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 1053
 

I would use AWG 6  as the inverter load on L1 and L2  may be unbalance .   AWG 10  require 30 Amp breaker .   inductive load surge may be 50 Amp on L1 amd L2 may be 20 Amp .  Bad thing  will happen like LED light go dim and flicker  badly   and the  L1  30 Amp breaker will trip .    My GS12kw do not shut down  when the load is more than  12000 watts amd L1 was over !6000 watts unbalance and bad thing  happen .  The GS12kw will  do over 16000 watts and not shut down  by the current sensor and  lucky I was home and had to manually  shut the  50 Amp breaker .    The L1  Awg 6 wire was smoking and turn black .   


   
ReplyQuote
(@notmario)
Reputable Member
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 314
 

Posted by: @dickson

I would use AWG 6  as the inverter load on L1 and L2  may be unbalance .   AWG 10  require 30 Amp breaker .   inductive load surge may be 50 Amp on L1 amd L2 may be 20 Amp .  Bad thing  will happen like LED light go dim and flicker  badly   and the  L1  30 Amp breaker will trip .    My GS12kw do not shut down  when the load is more than  12000 watts amd L1 was over !6000 watts unbalance and bad thing  happen .  The GS12kw will  do over 16000 watts and not shut down  by the current sensor and  lucky I was home and had to manually  shut the  50 Amp breaker .    The L1  Awg 6 wire was smoking and turn black .   

Wow.

You sure that 50A breaker is working properly? At an average of 67A, i'm pretty sure it should have tripped within a minute (or at least a few...) - check your breakers trip-curve.

 

This post was modified 1 year ago by NotMario

   
ReplyQuote
(@dickson)
Noble Member
Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 1053
 

You sure that 50A breaker is working properly? At an average of 67A  

NO the 50 Amp did not shut off power to L1  and the  AWG 6 wire was smoking  and the GS12kw was  not not shut off  by the current overload  and keep the output at  16000 watts . I was home and maually shut off the GS12kw .   I found the 50 Amp breaker contact was welded always ON  by the  16000 watts   I had to chisel the 50 Amp  breaker off the main service entrance  and the wire was burn black .   I  never unlock or update the GS12kw  and is still  working good .    

DSCF7194 16kw 2

 


   
ReplyQuote
(@sid-genetry-solar)
Member Admin
Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 2886
 

That's the "Max Watts" and "Peak Watts"--which by no means indicates continuous wattage.  (Oh, and some redraw errors...I've got those fixed in the code base.)

The GS inverter will shut down if the continuous wattage (~12kw) is exceeded by a percentage; the higher the continuous wattage, the quicker it'll trip. 

In other words, if you were sustaining a 16,000W load for ~30 seconds, the inverter will shut down with an overload error.


   
ReplyQuote