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it is a el cheapo android TracFone cell phone outside at 20 Fahrenheit or less with sun glare... yes the pictures are cloudy looking....only quick camera i had at the moment....i will try to get a better picture to try to diagnose where the de-attached green wire should go....
TracFone gives me 1500 minutes, WIFI data, texts, 1 yr service etc and the phone for about 80 bucks delivered so you cant expect much...i have service and about 4000 minutes until the year 2025 for less than 80 buck per year....i do not talk on the phone much,,,but utilize it for the texts and internet and communicate globally for free with WhatsApp....plus i am on the triple your minutes that roll over so hard to beat the price with any other cellular services... i have used these TracFones for about 3 years and just buy another one with a bunch of free time and minutes every time one breaks... i have a reserve one waiting for the next time i break the screen.
thanks for the reply...
if i took more time out in the cold i could use a digital camera but a bit busy with other things.....honey doo list is quite large before the turkey day holidays
😎👍 have a great Sunday
That green wire does not go to the hall sensor; those only have 2 wires (red/black)
My green wire go to the AC output board and to the LED screen in the front . Your green wire probably go to the AC output board and the Thor LED display but is not connected in your inverter .
Powerjack inverter has a lot of room to do repair and easy to repair . I would not try to repair a GS 12kw inverter as there is NO room and the whole inverter may be disassemble just to replace the FETs .
Doesn't sound like you've worked on a "big box" PJ inverter...where you have to remove the mainboard(s) to replace FETs. Same thing for the PJ "20kw" shown here...you have to completely remove the mainboard to access the FETs. Which may require removing the control board as well. (I've repaired a "dual mainboard PJ inverter" like this before, so I know what's involved.)
Which is the same as the revised GS design (removing the mainboard)--though with all the safety improvements, FETs should not be blowing on GS inverters for no reason.
PowerJack 20,000 watt split phase pure sine wave ASL9 11.0 48-volt inverter in a Stainless steel case. there is no charge function or any of that....nor do I want that,for replacement parts just in case... it was sold as a parts machine but seems fully intact.... I do hear something loose inside so maybe pop the top tomorrow if I have time
The title is ASL9.0 and a rev 11.0 control board . Look like it is a buyer remorse returned 20kw inverter and maybe nothihg wrong . I would get this inverter running and use it 24/.7 and not a parts machine . This inverter is better than all of your other 24vdc PJ and your 3 box PJ is probably the best inverter Powerjack ever made .
Doesn't sound like you've worked on a "big box" PJ inverter...where you have to remove the mainboard(s) to replace FETs.
My 15kw Powerjack case is bigger than his with the original 2 huge mainboards . Now replace the 2 mainboards with one tiny main board and move the ASL9.0 transformer to one side instead being in the middle . I can easy change FETs now but the new rev 11.1 contol board red light alarm 4600 watts and the rev 11.3 control board now do not shut down at load 5600 watts yesterday amd no red light alarm . The RUI FETs never blow up . I do not try 10000 watts and he should not also but maybe 7000 watts for an hour is good .
11 hours ago, dickson said:I do not try 10000 watts and he should not also but maybe 7000 watts for an hour is good .
PowerJack 20,000-watt LF PSW SP 130 plus pound beast parts machine saga >>>>for the price, if it runs 7000 watts for the barn shop use off grid,, I still think it will be a good investment....I did nor investigate further where the small green wire needs to go ... I will take more pictures but had a lot to do yesterday...
if it (the disconnected small green wire) does not go to the hall sensor it must go to the control board on the (I believe front side) where near where the non-existant LCD screens would have been positioned... this inverter does not have LCD screens and they were not accurate for the 120 240 exactly anyways as has been reported before...
any out put measurements I will do with other meters eventually...
perhaps the small green wire not being attached made the inverter non functional that is why it is was a return and the folks in walnut California who resell them do not have the skill and equipment to diagnose or the time to repair them... the shipping cost and re-boxing surely ate up all their Chinese profits...the non original poor re-boxing boxes were manufactured in walnut California...
I am always amazed that they keep saying 7000 watts for a 20k inverter...it seems it does not matter what size the transformer is but more an issue with the mainboards version and mosfets... but then again the rating / naming of the PowerJack inverter is more like a model number than actual output....and I do recognize/appreciate that information from all that everyone has told me in previous posts...
so basically a lot more weight and no increase in power ability???? hmmmm as Sid, etal keeps reporting???
I will not try to run it at 10000 watts anyways.... thanks for the heads up on the power handling capabilities so I do not destroy it too quickly...
my 24-volt 3 piece 15,000watt PowerJack inverter with the Thors notebook has been running 24/7 connected to a large LiFePO4 battery and starts essentially all I ever try without issues.... used it yesterday to recharge some more external LifePO4 batteries as the sun was out strong and the connected batteries were full....
the PowerJack 20000 watt parts machine I am working to position it on a set of 2 drawer file cabinets that I built a 4 wheel dolly using 5-inch Vevor swivel castor wheels....they rolled nice across the yard...the repurposed file metal cabinets make extremely useful tool storage at 5 bucks each .... you can buy them any day of the week off of Facebook marketplace ...((( I actually hauled away 5 of the 4 drawer ones for free and 3 of them had locking drawers with the key included )))...repurposing is the way to go for the off grid shop in the barn... I like to put wheels under all the heavy stuff....
I will utilize these in the barn shop off-grid solar project as I get a section of the barn shop better insulated to keep all in a climate controlled space....It has been below freezing for most of the days for about a week here in South Dakota...supposedly will get a bit better today >>> no help yesterday so cut up firewood, etc...
I am going to set up the off grid extension cords for the barn temporary today hopefully for the critters and for lights... temporary could be all winter once the snow gets deeper!!! ????
Have a great Monday all....😎
I am always amazed that they keep saying 7000 watts for a 20k inverter...it seems it does not matter what size the transformer is but more an issue with the mainboards version and mosfets... but then again the rating / naming of the PowerJack inverter is more like a model number than actual output....and I do recognize/appreciate that information from all that everyone has told me in previous posts...
They keep skimping on the number of strands of wire on the transformer core. Does not matter how big or heavy the core is...if the wire losses are too high, it'll overheat. The #1 cause of transformer overheating...is wire resistance.
You could say the core of the transformer is like engine size...and the wire is like the radiator. If you put a motorcycle radiator on a 12-cylinder diesel, it's not going to go very long before overheating. (That's a bad analogy for actual functionality...but OK for temp.) Transformer core has considerable ability, but is severely hampered by the wire's current carrying capacity.
And of course poor switching/drive on the FETs isn't going to help them run very cool either.
perhaps the small green wire not being attached made the inverter non functional that is why it is was a return and the folks in walnut California who resell them do not have the skill and equipment to diagnose or the time to repair them... the shipping cost and re-boxing surely ate up all their Chinese profits...the non original poor re-boxing boxes were manufactured in walnut California..
The green wire is not needed as there is no LCD . This is a simple test of your 2 mainboards and FETs worth over 400 dollars . You disconnect all the ribbon connetors to the rev 11.0 control board then use a 60vdc power supply connected to the inverter battery terminals . All 8 mosboard LED should light up . I am not sure how to test your control board but I use a test bench as a bad LF driver Will blow up all 48 FETs . Sorry as I can not test any further without a known good LF driver and a good control board .
1 hour ago, pilgrimvalley said:I did nor investigate further where the small green wire needs to go ... I will take more pictures but had a lot to do yesterday...
if it (the disconnected small green wire) does not go to the hall sensor it must go to the control board on the (I believe front side) where near where the non-existant LCD screens would have been positioned... this inverter does not have LCD screens and they were not accurate for the 120 240 exactly anyways as has been reported before...
How about a photo of where the green wire is connected? That'd tell a lot.
PowerJack 20,000 watt LF PSW SP parts inverter:
the broken tiny green wire goes to the board on the front of the inverter, and upon further investigation I found probably the other half of it which was also disconnected going to one of the plugs for a Thors Notebook (( it did not come with the Thors Notebook with the two external LCD screens though >>> but is set up for it)) on the other end of the front of this inverter....it appears (((I could be wrong))) that these two tiny green wires are supposed to be the same wire but somehow broke in the middle.
I also found there is another missing bolt that holds one of the circuit breakers in place but the other bolt is still intact....there could still be a bolt remnant in the inside of this inverter someplace...
Yesterday, I hoisted the heavy beast onto the two file cabinets on wheels and then blocked it up with some pallet wood oak pieces to get it high enough to remove the two stainless steel shipping covers ....w/o help >>>> this thing will mash your fingers and pinch your gloves for sure!!!
more investigation with a light and my glasses on is needed...
still working to get ready for winter, for the livestock ((((33 hair sheep and 6 cats>>>lots of baby lambs coming in the worst of weather i am sure)))) etc,,,house insulation etc etc....
pics below:
one pick shows the tiny green wire both ends close to each other. the one end goes to the board on the front and the other piece goes to one of the round plugs on the front which would be for a Thors Notebook....wonder what gouge that tiny green wire is and how to strip n solder it back together or crimp splice it??
one pick shows the tiny green wire both ends close to each other. the one end goes to the board on the front and the other piece goes to one of the round plugs on the front which would be for a Thors Notebook....wonder what gouge that tiny green wire is and how to strip n solder it back together or crimp splice it??
Did you lift the inverter by hand or you have a crane ? The green wire is just broken and you can twist and connect the 2 ends with wire nut . Check the mosfets and see if LED on mosboard after disconnecting control board and make sure power switch is off when connect portable power supply .
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Did you lift the inverter by hand or you have a crane ?
I wish I had something to help lift it handy but all those things were in the garage and would of taken a lot of time to get them out.....so I manually lifted (by myself)the darn heavy best by myself onto the 2 file cabinets from the garden cart,,,, did not do anything to it today....
I routinely wear a back belt,,,,I think it helps some,,,,at least my back seems to think so,,,but after a lot of physical work,,,my body says hey dum dum take it easy!
I left most of the screw bolts out of the PowerJack parts machine,,, except maybe 6-8 or so,,,>>>so it wont take too much time to pull the top off again....and it rolls fairly nice on the self-built 4 wheel file cabinet dolly with 5 inch castor wheels... the old barn has a mostly cement floor,, not totally level but workable for a bit bigger shop....
it seems like it is almost all intact and i wonder if a small green broken wire would make it non-functional or was it returned for other reasons??? seems quite minor so far....
thanks for the replies.....have a great thanksgiving holiday....😎
it seems like it is almost all intact and i wonder if a small green broken wire would make it non-functional or was it returned for other reasons??
The green wire will make the Thor not function in reading its display . I have a source in Walnut say lots of returned are buyer remorse and just assembly error where the buyer feel that something is broken or rattle and not accept delivery . I bought a 9kw from David yesterday for 200 dollars and show that there is not much wrong on this forum maybe if people want to know how easy it is to repair . Have a great thanksgiving holiday JACK is up to no good in China .
6 hours ago, dickson said:JACK is up to no good in China .
sounds like the 9kw inverter you bought will be a good investment....for you also....
it is fairly easy to set up separate ac panels for separate inverters to run various different loads...I use the Square D QO almost exclusively...
I bought a new Taotronics super efficient air conditioner 8000 BTU 120-volt delivered for $183.71 dollars including tax and delivery.... trying to do more efficient appliances
they make heat pumps that are easier to start with less loads also >>> other brands...
of course now I need the heaters!!! although it was in the 40's without wind and lots of sun so a nice fall day yesterday afternoon...
what is Jack up to in China???
two of the 20000 watt PowerJacks on separate AC breaker boxes if they can comfortably run up to 7000 watt loads here and there would power most loads...in the shop...I bought several square D QO 100 to 200 amp boxes cheap on ebay....
black Friday deals are not very good with the inflation this year....
2 hours ago, pilgrimvalley said:they make heat pumps that are easier to start with less loads also >>> other brands...
If it's an inverter-compressor design, there is literally zero surge.
I've got a Pioneer inverter compressor mini-split. It literally starts from zero current and slowly ramps up to full power over a minute or so. There is no starting surge.