15000W LF, 48volt to 240 volt, what wattage?

1650 x 2 =3300 hummm.

If I had know it was only a 3.3 I wouldn't have bought it. 

There was a second hand 8kw version that sold on ebay.uk for less than I bought this for. Damn. 

Very interesting glancing down the specsheet...you can supposedly run 30 minutes at 4,400W (the model number is a 30-minute rating, haha!)...but adding ONLY 200W reduces the max time from 30 minutes to a miniscule 5 minutes.  All over 200W??  It's a similar falloff curve by adding another 900W to 3 seconds max.

I notice the Li-Ion entry is with an asterisk.  There isn't a significant difference between 14S Li-Ion and 16S LiFePo4 from a charger perspective (apart from possibly voltage), so you might be able to use that setting.

It'd explain the short times for overrating use.  Lots of headroom in terms of voltage to wind out the PWM let it hold up the output under high load but the windings in the transformer no doubt wouldn't be happy sustaining the current for too long.

Well here's a funny thing; it turns out that my Samil Solar River grid tie inverter that I have used for 3 or 4 years, is high frequency. 

I don't think there was any damage to the inverter or white goods, but how would I know?

Thank you for your offer of help, I'll take you up on that. 🙂

Washing machine: Hoover Dynamic Next 7kg 1600rpm

Dish washer: Bush BFSNB12W

Tumble dryer: Indesit is41v

If I can use high frequency I would be over the moon.

SMA are really is doing my head in. I was given a link by sma to register for an account, so I can use their help forums etc. After giving a load of information about my self, they say the website is no longer in use.   

I have no idea about the software, where to get it, or if it's a internet server run software (no net , no software use).  If I got the software could I turn the battery charger off, or "user charger option" I really don't think it's possible.

So now I'm pinning my hopes on a high frequency all singing all dancing inverter, grid tie / off grid / lifepo4 mix anyway we want.  I was thinking Epever, I know back to China. 🙂 

Washing machine: Hoover Dynamic Next 7kg 1600rpm - will need the model number should be on the label.

Dish washer: Bush BFSNB12W - couldn't turn up the service manual for this machine.  I my limited experience with dish washers the only motor to think about is the drain pump and a '2000w' HF inverter shouldn't have any trouble with the sort of ratings the pump motors usually have.

Tumble dryer: Indesit is41v - 2200W total power draw, has a standard AC motor to drive the drum but can't find the specs for the motor apart from it being made in Romania.

First up, wow, what happened to the whitegoods industry?  It hasn't been particularly good for a couple of decades, IMO, but now it's turned to crap by the looks of it.  Parts aren't labelled beyond the obvious anymore.

Odds on the dish washer and tumble dryer won't cause a HF inverter any problems.

Pay attention to the total load you place on the HF inverter at any one time.  In a lot of cases the rating is often a brick wall figure that you can not exceed for practical purposes.  If you do the inverter will shutdown in a short time or collapse the output voltage to preserve itself.  Better HF inverters will have an overrate period where they will do more power out than the normal rating (and for more than the BS 20 or 40ms that you see with the pointless double wattage figures quoted on most Chinese HF inverters).  Check the manual for the inverter you are considering purchasing.

Take the tumble dryer for an example, total running rating is 2200W.  You may find the heater element is 1500 to 1800W.  Throw in the drum motor start current (the current the motor draws when stalled) and you are probably looking at around 3000W when you close the door to start the machine, so the inverter would need to be rated to supply, IMO, 4000W for a few minutes, and that's just the dryer by itself.  Running more than just the dryer concurrently?  You're going to need a higher rated inverter.

It's not just HF inverters that this all has to be consider for either.  LF inverters have their limits too.  If you have multiple concurrent loads and want to try to start a heavy draw motor that draw could be enough to push the inverter over its limits.  The key point is quality of the inverter.  Cheapie Chinese (being fair it is mostly Chinese origin stuff that is the problem) LF inverters will tap out long before a decent design and Genetry definitely falls into the later category along with well known brands such as Victron.

Thought I'd spill this to another post to keep it separate.

One of my fridges is a F&P E411TRT2.  The start / locked up current rating of the compressor is 6.15A, so call it 1500W.  My not entirely cheapie, but not completely legit rated either, Giandel '2000W' 24V inverter has no trouble starting the fridge at all.  AC waveform stays completely normal.  Odds on I could have the TV or computer on the inverter at the same time and not have any problems.  Could I run the 2000w jug and expect the inverter to start the fridge compressor too?  Buckley's!

Thank you for the info. I had thought I'd go for a meaty amount of kw to make sure it's got some reserve.

The model number of the washing machine is: DXOA 67LW3/1-80   TYPE FCEZ   IPX4

As luck would have it, I can replace my 1.2kw panels with 3.2kw of half cell panels, using every inch of space on the garage roof 🙂 

I love the idea of this all singing all dancing inverter, grid tie, battery and mains mix, it has it's own charge controller / mains charger, which means I can spend more on the batteries. 

I now realize, 3.2kw south grid tie will make a massive difference, and now I have to find out how to get around 2kw east and south facing arrays to feed the new inverter.

I've got to get it all done by April when the energy prices go up by 54% . Fat chance of that happening as I haven't ordered the batteries yet. Ho hum

I'm finally seeing light at the end of the tunnel 🙂

That washer should be OK with a HF inverter.  The drum should be able to rotate at different speeds with slow start / stop rather than on / off like AC line motors.

Thank you all for your help and advice, I pretty much know what I'm doing now.

Thank you Sid, please feel free to delete entries that you deem detrimental to your business; I know I have hijacked it a little talking about inverters other than Upower 🙂

No worries.

I just thought I'd let you all know,  I gave the SMA idea one more chance as I got a little help.

This info is for anyone else who is foolish enough to get one.

If you want to use a external charger or charge controller, the inverters battery charger function will automatically be turned off if you use a shunt (sensor wire to the inverter) and have an external power supply to the batteries.

The best / most useful way of charging the batteries is with a high frequency grid tie inverter Sonny boy SB360-TL21 £350 used. This model has the communication cards to talk to the sunny island £2400. You can use the earlier (not so good) SB360-TL20 but you have to add the speedwire card which is around £100. If using lifepo4 batteries, apparently the Sunny island's lead acid setting is the one to use as long as the bms cooperates with the inverter.

The low frequency sunny island will charge almost any battery you choose, but, and it is a big but, the only BMS that works is REC, Batrium, or Seplos. £250 to £500 each; that's a hell of a lot of cash if you have 16 batteries, and it means you can't buy a ready made off the shelf battery type, as you'd have to break them open to change the bms. Try explaining that one to the insurance company if you have a fire.

You will also need a Sunny manager at £600 installed between the fuse box / consumer unit and the electric meter to communicate with the two inverters for charging and exporting to the grid, or not.   

As if the massive outlay on bms and batteries isn't enough, the biggest problem is this inverter will not work in a power cut! You can install the system in the off grid way, that way in a power cut the batteries will work, but the grid tie inverter will not charge the batteries in a power cut. On top of that you will now need to put together some very expensive, cleaver and complicated wiring, electronic switching and trips.  

Don't bother asking SMA for help, they don't help in the slightest.

Basically the whole thing is very expensive nightmare; it promises you everything and gives nothing but a breakdown.

Thank you guys, do your self a favor, steer clear of SMA.