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OK, let me guess: inverter outlet was previously 120v, and you changed it to 240v?
Yes
Bingo. It would have been very helpful if you'd have mentioned this way back at the start...
Now I understand why it was tripping off. Outlet was previously connected to L2-N, which bypasses the L1 overcurrent sense.
Outlet is now connected across L2 - L1, which puts the overcurrent sensor in the circuit...so everything is working as designed.
So the reason it never tripped before, is because the trip sensor never saw the loads being connected to the inverter. And the reason it trips now is because it is seeing the loads being connected to the inverter, due to rewiring the outlet to 240v.
I do not have the inverter setup table for the DIP switches, so I cannot recommend a safe setting to change them to in order to increase the trip limit. But I can say that putting another one or two of those tiny switches in the "on" position might increase the overload alarm limit at your own risk. Please note that if the overload alarm limit is too high, the inverter very likely will blow up if overloaded. Sort of like putting pennies in a fusebox (old American saying).
26 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:Bingo. It would have been very helpful if you'd have mentioned this way back at the start...
Now I understand why it was tripping off. Outlet was previously connected to L2-N, which bypasses the L1 overcurrent sense.
Outlet is now connected across L2 - L1, which puts the overcurrent sensor in the circuit...so everything is working as designed.
So the reason it never tripped before, is because the trip sensor never saw the loads being connected to the inverter. And the reason it trips now is because it is seeing the loads being connected to the inverter, due to rewiring the outlet to 240v.
I do not have the inverter setup table for the DIP switches, so I cannot recommend a safe setting to change them to in order to increase the trip limit. But I can say that putting another one or two of those tiny switches in the "on" position might increase the overload alarm limit at your own risk. Please note that if the overload alarm limit is too high, the inverter very likely will blow up if overloaded. Sort of like putting pennies in a fusebox (old American saying).
Sorry, I read it wrong, I have to translate, it was 240 already, what I did was make it split phase adding a neutral.
Sorry, I read it wrong, I have to translate, it was 240 already, what I did was make it split phase adding a neutral.
Just now, Rafaelmedina23 said:
It offers the voltage well, I understand that the cables are well connected.
Yes, I am not concerned about the output terminal block, I am asking about the outlet that you plugged the heater into. Was that originally 120v, then switched to 240v in the conversion?
2 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:Yes, I am not concerned about the output terminal block, I am asking about the outlet that you plugged the heater into. Was that originally 120v, then switched to 240v in t
No, is 120 and it's still 120, that part I didn't touch
No, is 120 and it's still 120, that part I didn't touch
The reason why he first asked if the overload was caused by the mosfets or the driver board was because the first time I put the mosfets and the driver board on it and it turned on well, it worked for 6 days and boom, it burned the mosfets again. but now it's just going to overload.
They are the correct FETs, I can confirm. However, as this is a PJ inverter, we are kinda shooting blind at the problem, as it does not tell us what the problem is...it just says that "there is a problem."
Is the little 2-pin connector by the driver board connected to the battery negative terminal?
2 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:They are the correct FETs, I can confirm. However, as this is a PJ inverter, we are kinda shooting blind at the problem, as it does not tell us what the problem is...it just says that "there is a problem."
Is the little 2-pin connector by the driver board connected to the battery negative terminal?
Yes, it is connected.
If I had the money to send it back and forth, I would, but I don't have it, and I've invested a lot in it. I know that you are the only one who can repair it, but I don't have the resource, I think I'll leave it because and I don't know what to do. Maybe it could be a badly combined or badly placed cable. i think i've given up
1 minute ago, Rafaelmedina23 said:Yes, it is connected.
If I had the money to send it back and forth, I would, but I don't have it, and I've invested a lot in it. I know that you are the only one who can repair it, but I don't have the resource, I think I'll leave it because and I don't know what to do. Maybe it could be a badly combined or badly placed cable. i think i've given up
(I had written this at the beginning) It could be, this inverter is not split phase, (they did not have neutral) I converted it into split phase, and the work was excellent, 120/220 was working very well. The main reason why I changed all the boards and mosfets was that I had tried to put 220v at the input of the inverter to use it as a charger but it didn't work like that, that's why it had burned out, but before that it worked perfectly even though it was that relay 110v.
15 minutes ago, Rafaelmedina23 said:If I had the money to send it back and forth, I would, but I don't have it, and I've invested a lot in it. I know that you are the only one who can repair it, but I don't have the resource, I think I'll leave it because and I don't know what to do. Maybe it could be a badly combined or badly placed cable. i think i've given up
So we are the official U.S. Power Jack repair center, and I know the entirety of how the systems work; the issue is that I don't have enough information to figure out exactly what's going on. Just guessing around trying to figure out what's the issue.
I don't think it's a problem with any of the cables. Possibly the AC wires; I'm just trying to figure out why it's overloading when the load is connected. At least according to the colors on the transformer wires, the outlet appears to be connected to 240vAC, not 120vAC.
If the outlet was previously on 120v, and now is on 240v, that would cause the issue two times over.
17 minutes ago, Rafaelmedina23 said:(I had written this at the beginning) It could be, this inverter is not split phase, (they did not have neutral) I converted it into split phase, and the work was excellent, 120/220 was working very well. The main reason why I changed all the boards and mosfets was that I had tried to put 220v at the input of the inverter to use it as a charger but it didn't work like that, that's why it had burned out, but before that it worked perfectly even though it was that relay 110v.
Yes, I did see that. Possible that PJ changed the CPU program between the board, or there's a hidden jumper? I really don't know.
Speaking of which...if the inverter is 24v, did you change ALL of the jumpers on the control board to the 24v setting? There are 5 sets of jumpers, several underneath the CPU board. Or were they pre-set? Some of these jumpers--particularly the one on the board that plugs in standing straight up--will cause weird issues like this if not correctly set.
So we are the official U.S. Power Jack repair center, and I know the entirety of how the systems work; the issue is that I don't have enough information to figure out exactly what's going on. Just guessing around trying to figure out what's the issue.
I had taken photos before, but it may be that I made a mistake connecting them to the board. because the front part, where the exits and entrance are, I did not disassemble them. I have not tested the 240v on load, (only with the multimeter) which might work fine for a few days and then burn the mosfets again. Yes, there are 24v jumpers
I'm not trying to be dismissive, but I'm struggling to figure out why it's behaving as it is...
Did you set all 5 sets of jumpers to 24v? Or were they already set when you bought the replacement board.
7 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:I'm not trying to be dismissive, but I'm struggling to figure out why it's behaving as it is...
Did you set all 5 sets of jumpers to 24v? Or were they already set when you bought the replacement board.
7 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:I'm not trying to be dismissive, but I'm struggling to figure out why it's behaving as it is...
Did you set all 5 sets of jumpers to 24v? Or were they already set when you bought the replacement board.
I will verify that well