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I had not noticed this before, but was going to use the power save function and noticed that there was no wattage showing on the display and the unit would not turn stay on if I used one outlet. I don't have time to open it up to look this weekend, but wondering what I should check. My guess is there is a wire routing issue like it skips the current loop, but figured I would toss the question up here in case there is something else I should look at.
It does work perfectly for the one output, and I had done all my load testing with that one, so been this way I guess all the long. I just got the other output setup when I installed it in my truck, I still had my old PJ in the truck this spring finally swapped my house setup to the truck.
I had not noticed this before, but was going to use the power save function and noticed that there was no wattage showing on the display and the unit would not turn stay on if I used one outlet. I don't have time to open it up to look this weekend, but wondering what I should check. My guess is there is a wire routing issue like it skips the current loop, but figured I would toss the question up here in case there is something else I should look at.
It does work perfectly for the one output, and I had done all my load testing with that one, so been this way I guess all the long. I just got the other output setup when I installed it in my truck, I still had my old PJ in the truck this spring finally swapped my house setup to the truck.
Yeah, power save should work on both L1-N and L2-N leads. Current sense would be handled through the black current transformer that BOTH L1 and L2 leads should go through (in opposite directions). On A.1/B control boards, the control board can also run power save on its own--but it will only work on the L1-N side due to the on-board current sensor only being on the L1 leg. (On the C control board, the external current sense transformer handles all power save functionality.)
Current sense would be handled through the black current transformer that BOTH L1 and L2 leads should go through
Cool that must be what it is, I will pop open and put the L2 through the current loop. Wattage reading perfect for L1 just nothing reading on L2. So not stressed about it. Figured that was the case, nice to know before taking it apart what to look for. So nice to have you there Sid still monitoring the forum.