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Yeah, I forgot about it being a power jack coil
I've traced almost everthing and I could most likely change out to a C board. I think Sid says I just had to add one postive wire and change out the negative wire with a blade terminal to a ring that is going to the control board. Though I'm wondering how bad is the damange, as I try powering the unit and the fan spin up for 1 second, and I could feel as if the fan was humming while I fed it power as if its not able to build up power. Beats me, I know Sid is busy, so waiting on his thoughts. I am gathering up a breaker box, and breakers to mount in the wall and start moving all the 120v to it from the main. I want to keep from this happening again, and if I move what I want to the breaker, I can wire the master onto the grid to act as a charger and not have to worry about crossing the grid with them again. Just dang going to need about 75 foot of 10 gague 3 wire to run from the power room to the opposite wall where I'll be putting the other breaker box.
Odd, I don't see the edit button or link anymore so I can't fix my mistakes. must have changed the web site some more. if they would add headings between each posting in a thread that would make things a bit better.
Anyhow. about that PJ coil. Yeah my 8k PJ coil was more like a fat donut, were as the coil in the GS is just big, I mean Big big, and it looks like a coil that is from a make sky blue solar charger. and or a over size HF coil. just the amount of wire that was used to make that thing. I sure hope the new 6k coil uses less wire and has more air gap, this one don't even look as if it even has any air gaps. no wonder the fan sits directly on the blasted thing. I don't like how close the coil wire is to the sides though with no protection material, just seems like a issue. maybe put rubber pads on the side. Since UPS loves throwing the GS inverters off the Docs.
Are the big square objects on the control board, are those the relays? and the only relay in the unit? I'm guessing that is where the repeating clicking sound is coming from when I power on the master? and I figured after thinking about it, since the power switch is going to the control board and from the control board go's to the WIFI board. That the slave control board is toast and might be the reason why the board isn't booting up. though if the WIFI board was toasted I'm also guessing the fans wouldn't come on for a second either. Was about to say I can swath the control board from the slave to the master and might can get the master going, but not sure now since I can't determined if the WIFI board or the control board is dead.
Okay tested one more time, I am getting voltage, the GS master is showing on the wi-fi but when I tested the input its showing its hot, and the output is hot as well. I am guessing working. I hooked up my tower fan and its running it, but when it click its cutting the power off then it comes back on. So thats a plus at least, just the bridgeing relay is tripping for some odd reason, no wires are on the terminal.
Are those relays by chance socketed or the kind that are solder on the board? Guess I could go back and open the slave up and yank on those square modules and see if they come out of a socket lol.
At least the master is not bad off.
but not sure now since I can't determined if the WIFI board or the control board is dead.
The hardest part is that diagnostics are completely visual...there's a bright green LED on the control board that will light up if the board's power supplies are working.
Are the big square objects on the control board, are those the relays? and the only relay in the unit?
So on the A.1 control board, there's a singular large relay. On the B control board, there's two larger relays. (On the C board, the relays are much, much bigger.)
I hooked up my tower fan and its running it, but when it click its cutting the power off then it comes back on. So thats a plus at least, just the bridgeing relay is tripping for some odd reason, no wires are on the terminal.
I'd have to see visually what's going on--because a transition on the A.1/B boards isn't "seamless". You'd have to see if the power LED is going from green to blue--or if it's just staying green.
Are those relays by chance socketed or the kind that are solder on the board? Guess I could go back and open the slave up and yank on those square modules and see if they come out of a socket lol.
No sockets--all the relays are soldered directly to the board. Sockets are additional cost + additional risk for shipping damage. Having enough troubles keeping the connectors in place as it is!
and I figured after thinking about it, since the power switch is going to the control board and from the control board go's to the WIFI board. That the slave control board is toast and might be the reason why the board isn't booting up. though if the WIFI board was toasted I'm also guessing the fans wouldn't come on for a second either.
An easy way to check the WiFi board is to unplug the cable going between the control board and WiFi board. If you apply power (ignore the power button), the fans should run to full speed, and the WiFi board should show up on the network--albeit with useless info.
There's a chance the control board is fine, just it's getting shorted out by blown FETs. Since the FETs are obviously toast, you could try removing all 4 FET boards (unbolt from the heatsinks, and from the mainboard--don't lose the screws) and see if things come a bit more to life. Alternatively, you could just pull out the little driver board (stands upright on the control board)--since it likely got damaged in the event anyway.
wow. well that works. I just pulled the one little board next tot he ribbon and apply 24 v. thi pop up on my html.
So I need the little board and the four phase boards. not hearing any clicking though, so not sure about the relay on the control board.
the master well either gets the relay replaced, or I just upgrade both of the gs to c boards.
wow. well that works. I just pulled the one little board next tot he ribbon and apply 24 v. thi pop up on my html.
So that confirms that the control board and WiFi boards are fine. Just the driver board and the FET boards on the slave inverter. Master seems to have survived, pending a test as to whether it's actually switching to AC input or falling back on battery.
no the master is having a relay issue, I have nothing hooked up to it, just the battery going to it and its switching the relay on and off and the input and outputs are hot.
What ever is controlling the relay to bridge the input and output I think the relay is welded inside which is causing the control board to think its being power from the input on the AC when there is no wires on any of the terminals on the inverter.
Remeber, I was apply power to the input before I turned it on, and the output was energized from the grid as well, and it blown out my power strip, litterly the power strip I think smoked cause I did smell something after the slave near the power strip.
So I'm guessing when I turned it on, it must have clicked over to bridgeing and since my power strip was being powered by the second leg of the grid not the one the master was on, I think, not checked which leg that outlet is on, but anyhow, I got a hunch when it try bridgeing it welded the relay which shorted out the power strip which in turned saved the master from more damaged lol.
And even if the master went up in smokes, it wouldn't matter anyhow, because the slave would still have seen power coming to it to click it on since the grid was hot on the master where its getting its input command to turn on, so basicly the slave got both 240v sapped.
Okay, I just went and tested the terminal on the master with the continuity and every one of them no matter how you tested all of them are bridged this is with the power off. So yep its welded big times.
Maybe the next ones you get will be connected properly to prevent this type of incident. This sort of thing is exactly why transfer switches are required on standby generators. Relying on someone to turn the right breakers on or off is really just a means to release the magic smoke.
@inphase Actually in my case there is no way of useing a transfer switch, it would have happen just the same. If it was that simple I would have had transfer switches installed I got several 30A switches and heck I got a 100a 240v that I've never used cause I never needed it. either way wouldn't work. in my case. I've yet found a 200a transfer switch that I can put on the wall outside and run the meter to it first then my inverters. seems they don't make them or I'm just not looking at the right place.
@inphase Actually in my case there is no way of useing a transfer switch, it would have happen just the same. If it was that simple I would have had transfer switches installed I got several 30A switches and heck I got a 100a 240v that I've never used cause I never needed it. either way wouldn't work. in my case. I've yet found a 200a transfer switch that I can put on the wall outside and run the meter to it first then my inverters. seems they don't make them or I'm just not looking at the right place.
Admittedly, I don't know exactly how you use your system, but I can think of several ways to prevent exploding the inverter if grid power is present. For example, a DPDT contactor could be held on by the grid and the NC contacts would be connected to the inverter. It wouldn't need to be rated at 200 amps, just the rated amps of the inverter.
I have two 60a or 30a double breaker in the main breaker, those go directly to the two GS. one leg on each of the breaker is going to one gs and the other leg on both breaker go to the other GS. even with what your saying it would only work if the grid goes down, not when it comes back on the GS would not disconnect from the grid if it comes on. The only way around it would be to come off the meter to a switch that has main and alt power, then go to the breaker. which I would need a 200a switch. and then the issue is I would have to go outside well I guess I could have the switch inside but it would need to be a switch that I can change if I want to run main or GS power. and most switches don't have manual switching as far as I seen, they mostly all auto. so I would have to yet put another 200a breaker before the meter on the main. by the time I do all that, I could have bought another breaker which I already got put in the wall and move all my stuff I want to run off the gs to it. which is what I'm planning to do once I get my two gs back up and going. then I can run a 120v from the main breaker box to the master input to provide chargeing power when the battery get low, and I will use a 30a switch for that so I can tie in a generator so when the generator kicks in it will take over the chargeing and not use the main to charge the bank.