Unable to wash clothes with my GS.

No issue with my washing machine. Maybe an overly sensitive VFD? Faults when it senses the voltage drop on start.

Try what @TheButcher suggested and add medium resistive load when you start up your washer. The voltage drop should be less and maybe the machine wont fault out.

Will try that today, if I get enough sun in.  I did had two deep freezers hooke dup on the same cord, though those deep feezer bearly draw any power like 10w if that

adding more lead batts to the master as well, soon as they equlize.

Been awhile I got to find out what is the max volt of a lead agm batt is.

Been awhile I got to find out what is the max volt of a lead agm batt is.

I  also parallel  four AGM battery with  lithium ion ev car battery  and the  max AGM voltage is 4.7 volts .    Do not parallel AGM with  Lithium Iron  Ion battery  as the Lithium FE iron battery has a flat charging curve  and may destroy the AGM  because AGM  has a linear charging curve  and  need  slow charging and  max charging  10 amps or less .    

I don't use Ion batts, I use the other ones so I should be good.  though right now, I got my agm and flooded batts running the main.  I just didn't know how high the batts power could go and come to find out. 14.8 is the max, and well, I don't charge my batts but to 14.20, so I'm good either way on if I decided to pair them up with my lfo batts. shouldn't be much of a issue.  I'm kind of thinking of replacing on my lfo to agm and heck with lythuim they got to much problems.  Sit too long, might as well throw them out the door, pull too much power, better, be ready to put a fire out, and replace your BMS cause its going to fail.  AGM batts, bla, they work all day long and you don't have to worry about everything else lythuim has.  And since I'm not in a moveing object, weight isn't a issue.

Sit too long, might as well throw them out the door, pull too much power, better, be ready to put a fire out, and replace your BMS cause its going to fail.  AGM batts, bla, they work all day long and you don't have to worry about everything else lythuim has.  And since I'm not in a moveing object, weight isn't a issue.

DIY  lithium battery  is too dangerous in a RV or in the  house  unless you know  how to make it safe .      One of the   safe  lithium battery for RV is Battle Born Battery  and way too  expensive .    Parallel or mixing  lithium or Ifo with AGM  may be a problem  when the discharge rate of the battery are different .  I  have not seen any lithium battery   discharge rate the same as AGM  discharge rate  and will destroy the AGM .    The Ifo battery charging curve is FLAT so will not match the charging rate fot AGM .  I only parallel  AGM and lithium  temporary to get  more power  with fuse and circuit breaker .    

Directly connecting any lithium battery and any AGM battery isn't going to end well.  As @dickson point out already lithium's mostly flat discharge curve vs any AGM's long slope will means a heck of a lot of current can flow from the lithium to the AGM until the voltage equalises.  Far beyond what the manufacturer of the AGM will recommend and well into the rate where the AGM will be off gassing like crazy which will be an explosion hazard and certainly hugely reducing the cycle count of the AGM.

Even if current flows like this are controlled the different charging requirements will see one or the other having reduced cycle counts.  Holding a lifepo4 battery at maximum voltage for extended times to allow the AGM to fully charge will see the cycle life of the lifepo4 fall.  Maximising lifepo4 cycle life by doing lower voltage end point say 28.4 for a 24v lifepo4 will see the AGM never fully charged and it will quickly sulphate up and die.

There are solutions for having lithium and lead acid on the same system and it involves separate 'smart' chargers that maintain both separately and separate 'smart' discharge circuits to match the discharge performance of both.  In effect it's some switching power supplies of one type or another under the control of a micro of some sort.

lifepo4 is probably the current easiest chemistry to live with off grid without getting too expensive, IMO.  They don't care of you PSOC them.  They quickly slurp up and store any available power almost no matter what their SOC is.  They don't have the many hours of slowly tapering charge current that lead acids have.  That last bit really matters too.  If you can't absolutely guarantee to supply sufficient current for those many hours from solar alone you need a generator to ensure the lead acids are getting fully charged otherwise they die.

Living with lead acid batteries is more about you changing behaviour to suit the lead acid than the lead acid being able to meet your lifestyle.

There are solutions for having lithium and lead acid on the same system and it involves separate 'smart' chargers that maintain both separately and separate 'smart' discharge circuits to match the discharge performance of both. 

I use the Optima 1200 charger  for charging  the AGM battery  each separately  then connect 4  in series for 54v .   The lithium ion is charge to  64v with ebike charger and is not parallel to the AGM until  the inverter run the lithium down to  55v and then parallel to the AGM  with fuse and circuit breaker .    The inverter shut down when  the battery drop to  44v  and then had to recharge separately again  and again and a lot of work and the Optima 1200 is not cheap but make the AGM last a long time .   

Honestly, not sure what the concern is to parallel a LI and an LA. The voltage difference is still pretty small - and the LA will increase internal resistance implicitly regulating current. My shunt shows < 3W cross-charge in almost all real-world circumstances. During charging, the LA will charge slower because the LI will suck all the power (keeping voltage low) until it's full - then the power will divert to the LA - but only as fast as it would typically at the charge voltage in question. If charging is terminated before LA reaches 100% SOC, the LI will slowly charge it anyway.

Typical [alternator] charge voltage with LA is 14.5V for 12V, an equivalent 99% charged LiFePO4 would be 14.6ish. In essence, the LI looks like a typical charger to the LA - if the LI would boil it, the alternator surely would too.

I've not seen any major pitfalls to this, and there are actually quite a few perks - mostly involving handling load surging. Don't knock it before you try it - there seems to be a lot of confusion on this topic.

Honestly, not sure what the concern is to parallel a LI and an LA. The voltage difference is still pretty small - and the LA will increase internal resistance implicitly regulating current.

Parallel battery  in a 12v or 24v inverter system  is not too much problem .    My inverter run on a 48v to 60v system with 15kw PJ .   The AGM is connected 4 in  series  and the voltage of each AGM will change with the load .   One AGM  may go to 15.1 volt and I have to disconnect the 4  AGM  or if one AGM go down to 10.5 volt then I have to shut down the inverter and  separately recharge each  AGM again .    If I  can keep the system voltage at 55 volt constant  then all the battery are happy .    The 15kw inverter is not happy because with a heavy inductive load  the AC output will not be a sine wave when the AGM  battery drop to 52 v dc .   I keep the DC voltage at 58v  to 62v constant to keep a sine wave at the output of the 15kw PJ  inverter .    I  have an  8kw PJ  that run on  AGM and lithium battery in  parallel no problem .  

There sure is confusion and there appears to be some of it demonstrated here.  Let's take reaching full charge as an example.  Look at the side of a LA battery.  Odds on there will be two charging voltages (actually ranges rather than single voltages) listed.  One for standby operation.  One for cyclic operation.  What does that mean?  Simple really.

Standby is where the battery will not be discharged for most of its life.  It sits there on float for power failures etc.  Under those circumstances it is practical to only charge the battery to 'float' voltage as it has weeks of time to reach fully charged, and it will take weeks to get there.

Cyclic is where the battery is discharged, to some degree,  more frequently, might be once a day, might be multiple times a day.  All that matter is that current flows out of the battery.  In these circumstances the higher 'absorption' voltage is required to allow the battery to return to fully charged in the much shorter window.  If you don't you are now into PSOC territory.

Most people in the off grid / camping etc community seem to be aiming for lifepo4 longevity, read any number of forums and there are endless discussions about where one should charge a lifepo4 up to for long life.  Even professional and high quality consumer solar chargers will reduce the voltage applied to lifepo4 batteries, often down to 27V as a default, or even completely turn it off once a certain time or minimum 'going into the battery' current has been reached.  DC-DC chargers found in the 4WD/campervan community also perform in this way.

Factory alternators perform multistage charging under ECU (or what ever module handles it in a given vehicle) control.  Long gone are the days where the alternator / generator (if you are old enough to remember generators!) simply tries to pull the vehicle's harness up to 15V indefinitely.  Charging a lithium battery straight of new or old style charging setups is destined for failure.  There needs to be a charger (DC-DC etc) to limit the current the lifepo4 will draw from the vehicle.  If not, that alternator is going to have a short life with a smouldering hot end.  Victron has a discussion paper regarding the issue but the same sort of information can be found from other sources.

Back to charging a paired LA / Lithium battery.  There are now two conflicting objectives.  The desire to keep the lifepo4 at a lower voltage to get more cycles out of it and the need to hold the LA at full absorption voltage for hours on end, typically 5+ unless the level of discharge is particularly shallow, to avoid sulphation problems.

The piper will be paid.  All that is to be determined is who pays.  Will it be the LA or the LiFePo4?

Edit: this may be the last thing I have to say here about pairing LA and Li batteries, from other forums that I've participated in as well as just passive reading, some types do not like being told about the problems doing such with the thread quickly devolving into a sh*tshow.

58 minutes ago, NotMario said:

Honestly, not sure what the concern is to parallel a LI and an LA. The voltage difference is still pretty small - and the LA will increase internal resistance implicitly regulating current. My shunt shows < 3W cross-charge in almost all real-world circumstances. During charging, the LA will charge slower because the LI will suck all the power (keeping voltage low) until it's full - then the power will divert to the LA - but only as fast as it would typically at the charge voltage in question. If charging is terminated before LA reaches 100% SOC, the LI will slowly charge it anyway.

Typical [alternator] charge voltage with LA is 14.5V for 12V, an equivalent 99% charged LiFePO4 would be 14.6ish. In essence, the LI looks like a typical charger to the LA - if the LI would boil it, the alternator surely would too.

I've not seen any major pitfalls to this, and there are actually quite a few perks - mostly involving handling load surging. Don't knock it before you try it - there seems to be a lot of confusion on this topic.

Yes, the typical charge for a LA could be 14.5v--but if the MPPT has temperature compensation + equalization charge enabled (for the LA), that could easily reach 16.0v per 12v in cold climates--or 4.0vpc @ 16S LiFePo4 bank.  That's far higher than the 3.60vpc maximum often specified on some LiFePo4 cells (many allow 3.65v).  That alone if not understood, is a serious concern--especially if mixing Li-Ion and LA (14S @ 64v = 4.57vpc, way beyond the max 4.20vpc).  You'll only do that once if you're using Li-Po...and everyone else will read about it.

But then at the same time you don't want to put your LA in a heated living space (to avoid the higher voltage caused by temp compensation)--because they generate hydrogen gas at high charges.  Which, if you remember the Hindenburg...is rather flammable.  (Kinda fun to boil-charge a lead-acid battery (on purpose), capture the hydrogen in a (plastic) bottle, then light it off with a spark.  The bottles fly pretty far...)

I would concur that as long as the user fully understands how the chemistries are different, you can technically mix them to a greater or lesser extent.  Li-Ion vs LA is easier than LiFePo4 vs LA, due to the more linear charge/discharge curve.

Mixing LiFePo4 with any other "linear" chemistry (LA / Li-Ion / Ni-xx) is of course possible, though the user should understand that the 2 chemistries will NOT charge evenly.  The discharge path will actually go back and forth several times across the SOC graph.  As long as the interactions and charge requirements are understood, it could theoretically be handled fine. 

But definitely not something to recommend to ANYONE who does not fully understand the risks and challenges posed by mixing different chemistries--not to mention the characteristics of both chemistries.  To recommend someone to just dump some LiFePo4 onto their LA-configured solar charger without understanding exactly what is going on--is to ask for trouble.  If not immediately, definitely in the long run (if temperature compensation is in the picture).

Just to note, the reason people use DC-DC chargers for LiFePO4 vehicle operations is [primarily] because of the alternator - not because of the issue of paralleling the batteries. That is an entirely separate problem that i know very well. (Because my banks are alternator charged)

Lets assume for a second that the LI and LA have truly contradictory objectives. The choice is simple. You baby the LI at the cost of the LA.
But i don't consider those to be entirely contradictory. A 20% SOC LiFePO4 will still charge an LA.

You're right that the piper will be paid - it's just that you're not going to pay him very much in reasonable use cases.

I absolutely do not recommend charging any kind of batteries with inappropriate parameters. I am by no means saying you can just drop LI (whatever variant) w/o adjusting parameters. I am only saying that a carefully configured system can parallel the two chemistries and get benefits from doing so. In an ideal world this kind of approach is never necessary. But in the pragmatic world - it's a workable hack.

A '20%' SOC lifepo4 will not be able to bring the LA to fully charged in anything that one could call a reasonable timeframe with a reasonable use case, ie one where the LA can achieve full charge before being usefully discharged again.  It is chemically impossible.  This is not me blowing smoke either.  Any reputable battery manufacturer will state the time it will take their LA battery to rise to fully charged with only 'float' voltages applied to it.

A '20%' SOC lifepo4 will not be able to bring the LA to fully charged in anything that one could call a reasonable timeframe with a reasonable use case, ie one where the LA can achieve full charge before being usefully discharged again

20 percent  SOC for lifepo4 is  12.9 volt .     Fully charge AGM is 14.7 volt .    There is a big difference in voltage .  

A LA battery can be at full charge, ie the acid concentration has reached the point where the amount of sulphur left on the plates is sufficiently low, at lower than 14.6V.  Some standby duty batteries can be as low as 12.95V, but they usually have chemical tweaks to allow it.  The key point is the time it takes to get to that state.  At float level voltages it takes a quite a long time, more time than is practical in cyclic use, which is why we have higher 'absorption' voltages.