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Pretty sure then that this has to do with insufficient AC output filtration on the inverters. The more the filtration, the higher the no-load current...but if there's not enough filtration, picky appliances won't run.
I gto two 10uf here, not sure how to wire it, cause the wire wouldn't be big enough to go on the output of the gs, unless you saying do it at the washer it self. Unless the two wire goes one on commona nd one on hot, which I don't know, never fooled with caps on ac. so I'm clueless, I know on DC its ground on ground and hot on hot.
These types of capacitors are not polarised, you don't need to worry about putting them in the wrong way around.
I know my house when I used to have the sense monitor on my breaker box, my house on avrage would idle at 300 watts. Only time it ever went up if the dryier, washer, or water heater kick on and or I'm cooking, other then that, it just idle that low. The whole house ac would use 3k when running, Since I have no way of getting my generator going on my gs, I'm looking into having a eletrition come out and wire a panel to have after the meter that I can cut power to the house but still pull power and have that power go to the gs inverter to charge the bank and have a either a one way relay to share batt power to the other bank when it gets to a certian volt, or figure out a way to have a switch with a charger to charge the other bank.
1 minute ago, TheButcher said:These types of capacitors are not polarised, you don't need to worry about putting them in the wrong way around.
That still dont' explain how to do the caps. . Do I just plug one wire into the output of the hot on the ge terminal and the other wire on the common of the output of the gs terminal? I'm going to have to order two more of them if that is the case, didn't think about that I would need two for each gs since its got two 120v output.
That still dont' explain how to do the caps. . Do I just plug one wire into the output of the hot on the ge terminal and the other wire on the common of the output of the gs terminal? I'm going to have to order two more of them if that is the case, didn't think about that I would need two for each gs since its got two 120v output.
One cap per inverter, one wire to hot and the other to the common. The "2 outputs" on the GS inverters are just paralleled terminals to get the current rating up.
It'll sparky when you connect them if the inverters are on, just so you know 😉.
One cap per inverter, one wire to hot and the other to the common.
PJ has no filter on L2 so cap connect L2 and N in the picture . Your GS 6kw is 120vac so connect to 120vac terminal and the other wire of cap to Neutral .
so just unscrew the terminal slide the wire into the terminal along side the other wire?
34 minutes ago, dickson said:One cap per inverter, one wire to hot and the other to the common.
PJ has no filter on L2 so cap connect L2 and N in the picture . Your GS 6kw is 120vac so connect to 120vac terminal and the other wire of cap to Neutral .
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*cough* *Blinks, Blinks* Boy that picture looks like well, all fuzzy and colorless, out of focus, and well, *blink, Blind* Might need to see if you can convert it into braille so I can feel it. . . *chuckles*
so just unscrew the terminal slide the wire into the terminal along side the other wire?
Or even just wire it to a wall plug, and plug it into a wall socket powered by that inverter.
Well, I ran the test, seems to be a issue with the low end of the gs inverter to run the washer by it self, however, while running my counter top ovan still going as we speak for another 2 and half hour of cooking, anyhow, I ran the washer, and it ran normal through all of its cycles, I wached the gs hit up to 81 amps at 24.3v for a few seconds before it drop when the washer went to spin up. Other then that its running great with no issue, and all my wireing is cold as it can be, 66f ambance with 100.9 trans the fans come ona dand off highest I seen hit is at 32% then drop to off. Luckly its sunny today and doing this while the sun is out and the bank was basicly fully charge at 28v when I started.
So if that worked, a silly workaround might be to increase the length of the wiring between your inverter and the washer. Try a 100ft extension cable or something like that. The wire's own inductance might be enough to make the washer happy.
10 minutes ago, NotMario said:So if that worked, a silly workaround might be to increase the length of the wiring between your inverter and the washer. Try a 100ft extension cable or something like that. The wire's own inductance might be enough to make the washer happy.
Pretty sure it's just filter capacitance. The first run GS inverters have just a 4.7uF output filter cap; all the Rev. C boards have a pair of 10uF filter caps. Actually reduces the no-load current slightly when the cap size is matched to the transformer size (haven't bothered to calculate out the science there though). With <a contenteditable="false" data-ipshover="" data-ipshover-target="/profile/3-the-blind-wolf/?do=hovercard" data-mentionid="3" href="/profile/3-the-blind-wolf/" rel="">@The Blind Wolf running a 120v single-phase inverter output, technically it should have 20uF output capacitance then, compared to the 4.7uF it does.
We learn.
26 minutes ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:Pretty sure it's just filter capacitance. The first run GS inverters have just a 4.7uF output filter cap; all the Rev. C boards have a pair of 10uF filter caps. Actually reduces the no-load current slightly when the cap size is matched to the transformer size (haven't bothered to calculate out the science there though). With <a contenteditable="false" data-ipshover="" data-ipshover-target="/profile/3-the-blind-wolf/?do=hovercard" data-mentionid="3" href="/profile/3-the-blind-wolf/" rel="">@The Blind Wolf running a 120v single-phase inverter output, technically it should have 20uF output capacitance then, compared to the 4.7uF it does.
We learn.
Are you saying it's noise on the line? Isn't that noise at quite a high frequency? I'm at a loss why the washer would be so bothered by high frequency noise. I'm no electronics expert (or novice for that matter) I simply assumed it's a voltage drop issue.
I don't blame anyone for mistakes. At least as a programmer i can always fix my mistakes in software. 😉 They are, after all, so many.
My Rev. C works great, so good job from me. lol
32 minutes ago, NotMario said:Are you saying it's noise on the line? Isn't that noise at quite a high frequency? I'm at a loss why the washer would be so bothered by high frequency noise. I'm no electronics expert (or novice for that matter) I simply assumed it's a voltage drop issue.
I don't blame anyone for mistakes. At least as a programmer i can always fix my mistakes in software. 😉 They are, after all, so many.
My Rev. C works great, so good job from me. lol
I can only guess as to what the actual issue is--because neither Sean nor I have any way to reproduce the issue. The several cases where customers have had issues with compatibility (always been washing machines so far)...adding AC filter capacitance to the output has always seemed to solve the issue.
11 hours ago, Sid Genetry Solar said:I can only guess as to what the actual issue is--because neither Sean nor I have any way to reproduce the issue. The several cases where customers have had issues with compatibility (always been washing machines so far)...adding AC filter capacitance to the output has always seemed to solve the issue.
So should I put both of my 10uf caps onto the master one on one 120 output and the other on the other 120 output? and do the same for the slave?