Unable to wash clothes with my GS.

No.  One cap onto the master inverter, the other cap on the slave inverter.

Like I said, there's only one 120v output on each inverter.  The terminals on the block on each inverter are just paralleled to get the ampacity.

I would suggest getting a nice line filter metal can style one.  Your just working with a single phase so the quality ones are not very expensive and are nice for a low tech easy to install.  I use these Schaffner ones.  Just screw it down and hook up the wires as labeled.  They are two stage, so in systems where there is motor noise we used them to prevent the machines computer screen from flickering, way overkill for a washing machine, but the they are not expensive might as go with easy.  Here is a link to one that I would suggest for your application.  LINK

Okay, I guessing form one post that wire don't matter were it goes, as long as one to hot and one to common, so I did that, turn on the gs inverter, and smell burning?  Just kidding.

anyway I turn on the washer by it self, and well filled up and sitting there like a dead beat horse..  So it still a no go.

Unless the wire do have to go to a hot and common on the cap. .

Unless doing the output on the gs and not the outlets on the gs makes any diff, figured they would be tied with the same wire.  Or am I wrong on that?

anyway I turn on the washer by it self, and well filled up and sitting there like a dead beat horse..

Maybe the washer  rotary switch or button is bad .   Try the spin cycle to see if  the motor work .   Try the grid power or add a portable heater and run  the washer  together .   

Nope its all digital. I can put it to the grid and it will work no issue.

I only hit one button that is it, everything is set the way I like and never change them. 

Nope its all digital. I can put it to the grid and it will work no issueI only hit one button that is it, everything is set the way I like and never change them.

I  be afraid to try  anymore test on  your  very expensive  washer  or you may be like Sean washer and  burn up the motor or worst and damage the electronics .   

I got my washer to work by keeping the voltage between 58v to 61v  constant when using  my washer to keep the pure sine wave  during use .   You can get a cheap 100 dollars washer to test with .     

Yeah get one of those tankers that have a motor instead of a stepper motor, no worries then, only one way for it to go, the rest is all clutch base. and oh lets not forget it will suckyour battery dry while doing it,  nah, I'll just stick with what I got, I will see what sid wants to do next.  I might just have to break out a 3k cheap inverter I got that can run it with a 12v battery, wouldn't take but 20 amps to do it.

Also, let me point out, this was trying to run it by it self on a exstion cord from the gs, not from the breaker box.  I would switch to the braker setup and try, but at the moment I got print jobs going and I can't just turn off the power while testing, 

But the washing machine DOES run if the inverter has loads on it...?

But the washing machine DOES run if the inverter has loads on it...?

however, while running my counter top ovan still going as we speak for another 2 and half hour of cooking, anyhow, I ran the washer, and it ran normal through all of its cycles,

I  think the washer work while the oven top is running  at the same time .    I  am confuse about his  washer  .    

It did the one time I ran it with the oven going, and that was useing two cords from the gs, not the breaker box. and without the cap.  he oven was off a 100 footer and the dryer with two chest freezer was on a 25 foot cord.

It did the one time I ran it with the oven going, and that was useing two cords from the gs, not the breaker box      

I   do not know why your washer  now works  but  do it again  to see if you can use it this way but your AGM  battery will run down fast and then your output AC will drop and the washer will stop  working .   I  need 58v DC to 61 v DC input from the battery to use my washer on LIthium ion battery  but not work on  AGM at 54 v DC  .       Thank you for the infro . 

My theory is his washer uses a VFD to drive the motor. The VFD senses the voltage drop and faults out. Main controller probably has no code to handle this fault, so it sits.

Whatever is going wrong internally, it looks to be caused by voltage drop to me.

Adding other loads reduces the voltage drop when the motor starts. Find a practical way to reduce voltage drop and it will probably work fine. Could also potentially adjust inverter to start at a higher voltage...

Yeah, I did had it program at a higher voltage before it blew up and had to send it off, since it came back its not been reprogram, I know the voltage output hoovers around 117v.  As far as my battery voltage, that should effectthe washer fom not working.  When I do these test, the sun is out and the batts are basicly fully charge, so that rule the low voltage out.  I could put a cap on the agm batts, but, I don't think that is the issue, since I'm only pulling 80 amps at the most at the moment.

Well, I guess I will have to wear dirty cloths from now on, if I try to go off grid, or get a tub and a scrub board and do it the old fashion way.  I just ran my whole house off of both gs inverters, and stillg et the same results with just the washer, and this is from the slave I think this time which has lyfo4 batts.  Does exactly the same thing, fills up, then turns one time and just quits, and do nothing.  So I'll have to switch over to grid to wash my cloths which is not what I want to do.  and no I can not go buy a another new washer, I'm on ssdi only now and don't have that kind of money layering around.  I might see if I can find a used old kind that is clutched base and swap it out, which will be kind of silly cause it will use more power then the one I got.