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Well, I guess I will have to wear dirty cloths from now on, if I try to go off grid, or get a tub and a scrub board and do it the old fashion way. I just ran my whole house off of both gs inverters, and stillg et the same results with just the washer, and this is from the slave I think this time which has lyfo4 batts. Does exactly the same thing, fills up, then turns one time and just quits, and do nothing. So I'll have to switch over to grid to wash my cloths which is not what I want to do. and no I can not go buy a another new washer, I'm on ssdi only now and don't have that kind of money layering around. I might see if I can find a used old kind that is clutched base and swap it out, which will be kind of silly cause it will use more power then the one I got.
I don't know what to say...the problem is that I don't have any appliances that are croaking over off-grid power. All the other customers having misbehaving washing machines (the only trouble appliance so far) were able to solve the issue by adding an AC output filter cap to the inverter.
There's a chance it could have to do with a firmware voltage regulation oscillation with a surge load. I am trying to work on several things at once, but hopefully will be able to get 1.1r6 out at some point for the Rev. A.1 / B boards, and maybe that will help.
Hmm. I wonder, I thought I order more then one cap. Let me look around, cause I never put a cap on the slave. the master has one but not the slave. with my whole house going except for the 240v loads I was pulling 180w on master and slave.
Not sure yet, but will be trying agian just to test, but I think I might have solve the issue. I'm surprise the GS inverter didn't throw a error, but I had a common hooked up with the hot line for a light in the kitchen for the pass year. Its never tripped the breaker, or anything and that is probley the reason why I kept getting sparks when I try chargeing my batts from the grid from the outlet, was cause of that. I'm replacing one of the outlet on the end of the line with a GFI, as there isn't one on that line.
Maybe need to have a way to monitor the common on the GS on the web interface in case you got a back feed going on? This might been what was causeing the gs not to run the washer, as the gs een with the breaker turn off on the main, would still have a ground and common hot going into the GS even while useing a power cord from the outlet going to the washer.
Either way, I've gave up on running the two GS, as dealing with the 24v system with some what mixed up batts and just useing 12v paired together was going out of balance and I nearly caught my house on fire with a set of lead flooded batteries that was setup to run one gs inverter, not tied in with any other type of batts started to heat up over 200F and I was smelling something odd and didn't know it till a day later that they was haveing a melt down. took over a day to cool them off after unpairing thme all and then running a fan to cool them off, then took them outside. out of 8 lead batts two of them are shot, and these where the big tractor group 31 batts. with 1200 cranking amp power.
So right now debating on selling these two gs inverters, and switching to just the 12v system, that way I dont' have to worry about dealing with balancing issues. wish I could convert these these to 12v, but that would require another battery bolts and wires to handle that kind of amps.
Oh well. I can't afford to buy new 24v batts to replace all my 12v batts.
Breaking out the power jack 12v and another 3k to run all my 120v stuff for the time being.
47 minutes ago, The Blind Wolf said:wish I could convert these these to 12v, but that would require another battery bolts and wires to handle that kind of amps.
The GS inverters absolutely can be converted to run on 12v (necessitating an internal rewiring & replaced cooling fans), but I wouldn't recommend running them much past 4-5kw simply due to the huge amperages!
The GS6 transformer absolutely is capable of running continuous 12v at full power, just the FETs might not quite be up to the task.
If you had someone to help with the rewiring (which I am happy to assist with via video call), it might be worth upgrading to Rev. C boards at the same time. Just get it all done with.
47 minutes ago, The Blind Wolf said:Maybe need to have a way to monitor the common on the GS on the web interface in case you got a back feed going on? This might been what was causeing the gs not to run the washer, as the gs een with the breaker turn off on the main, would still have a ground and common hot going into the GS even while useing a power cord from the outlet going to the washer.
I guess I'm not fully understanding the wiring issue in your case, as to whether the inverter would even be capable of seeing the issue. What do you mean by "common", AC neutral?
Okay, you know how my two gs are wired up to the breaker box, one is leg one and the other leg two, as well as the common wire white and ground wire going to the breaker box. With the breakers off for both GS on the main breaker or even if they was on and the grid breaker off, the wireing I had in the kitchen light was not wired correctly, I had a common wire wired with a hot wire. so it was acutally makeing my ground and common hot as well, which isodd that it never caused any issue in the house, though I'm kind of woundering now if that white wire was even going to the main box, now that I think abou it, but it could have, since when I try chargeing the batteries with the GS from the grid it would spark and trip the GFI. I'm not sure as the stupid kitchen had a three way wireing crap setup, and I was trying to change it. either way.
If I upgrade to the C board, I would change it to 48v, since really it would be cheaper from what I'm seeing on you tube to buy 48v server rack lfp batteries and it wouldn't require such large wires like I've been dealing with.
I just got a state job of sorts, and will be starting next month. so might go that route and upgrade to the c board. though if I upgrade to c board, I want to have both of them be 240 with the dasy since I think yall got that solved.
how much are the boards?, and if you want to do it over video I can set it up, with a over head camra with lights.
If I can conver the gs like that I can easily use one GS with at least one 48v server rack to start with and then slowly build up my bank with more.
though if I upgrade to c board, I want to have both of them be 240 with the dasy since I think yall got that solved.
In theory anyway...the past month has not gone anything like I hoped. Technically, it should be a week of programming and testing away from functionality--but there's been much more important/pressing things that I have to work on instead. I can only do so much each day.
I just got a state job of sorts, and will be starting next month. so might go that route and upgrade to the c board. though if I upgrade to c board, I want to have both of them be 240 with the dasy since I think yall got that solved.
Unfortunately, it would not be feasible to do a control board upgrade + rewire the transformers for 48v input & 240v split-phase output without a sighted person doing the work who's electrically knowledgeable. There's just so much to do. (Plus a variac just to double-check the transformer before turning the FETs loose on it.)
Costwise, that's a Sean question. I'm the design/technical person, not the sales person!
If I can conver the gs like that I can easily use one GS with at least one 48v server rack to start with and then slowly build up my bank with more.
Yes, the GS inverters can be field-converted to different system voltages. Definitely not the easiest or simplest process, but it sure beats buying a new inverter!
Sounds like it would be better off for me to freight these two gs inverters to sawn and get the 12k 48v model. Or find somebody near by that want to by these if they want 24v inverters.
I just checked dang 48v 100ah batts are going for $1200, sure wish they was that cheap when I got into this. Oh well.
strange the 24v 100ah cost a arm and leg for less power than 48v.
Sounds like it would be better off for me to freight these two gs inverters to sawn and get the 12k 48v model. Or find somebody near by that want to by these if they want 24v inverters.
Up to you...GS inverters are completely possible to rewire, though it'd be very difficult to successfully do via video call without a sighted person.
would it be worth upgrading to the 24v board that is out now and keep it at 24v. I went looking last night and didn't realize that 24v 100ah batts are going for $1200 right now. Might just start buying a few of those, at least three of them to get one of the gs fully going, while working on the other. I want to do this right this time around, with proper breakers and bus bars to keep from another chance of a fire, staying away from agm and lead batts.
I went on the GS web site, there is no parts for the rev c board to buy. so have no idea of how much one is, and I could get somebody sighted to help swap out the board. Though remember my gs inverts got the odd ground wire that I think sawn solder on the one I sent him, the other I don't think was solder, so would have to change the connector I'm guessing.
charging up a set of fully made batts lithium and combine them and get the master back online and see if it can run the washer with no issue since I found that odd wiring in the house. if it works then I figured out the issue that been causing the washer issue.
Oh, and do you still got the Generator keyfod? If you could send it back, since I'll just use it to remote start the thing instead of fooling with the gs doing it.
Oh, and do you still got the Generator keyfod? If you could send it back, since I'll just use it to remote start the thing instead of fooling with the gs doing it.
I do have it on my desk...I have let a lot of wheat grow over that one. Issue being that I really don't know if I wired the connector up right (to your inverters). If it's wired up wrong, that'd be a soldering swap...but I did get it fully wired to the connector.
I went on the GS web site, there is no parts for the rev c board to buy. so have no idea of how much one is, and I could get somebody sighted to help swap out the board. Though remember my gs inverts got the odd ground wire that I think sawn solder on the one I sent him, the other I don't think was solder, so would have to change the connector I'm guessing.
There's a couple of changes...a Rev. C board is not a direct drop-in replacement for a Rev. A.1 board, necessitating a few connector pin-swaps and different AC wiring. We don't have control boards on the site for spares yet...until we have some spare stock available for sale! (I have ordered those.) We have a few control boards, but we need to have parts on hand for any warranty needs.
would it be worth upgrading to the 24v board that is out now and keep it at 24v. I went looking last night and didn't realize that 24v 100ah batts are going for $1200 right now.
Up to you on what voltage you want to go with. The control board can handle 12/24/36/48 with just a system setting--but the transformer has to be rewired corresponding to the desired voltage. Oh, and the cooling fans need replaced per the voltage; those aren't a "universal" part.
On 12/18/2022 at 7:37 PM, Sid Genetry Solar said:The GS inverters absolutely can be converted to run on 12v (necessitating an internal rewiring & replaced cooling fans), but I wouldn't recommend running them much past 4-5kw simply due to the huge amperages!
On this topic... why exactly is it that everything else is pretty much voltage-agnostic (albeit requiring some minor rewiring), but the fans are not? No good trickery to supply "always 12v" to the fans?
Of course my first thought would be to use a rectified 12v tranny winding - but of course there would be no power if the inverter wasn't running. 😕
On 12/18/2022 at 7:37 PM, Sid Genetry Solar said:The GS inverters absolutely can be converted to run on 12v (necessitating an internal rewiring & replaced cooling fans), but I wouldn't recommend running them much past 4-5kw simply due to the huge amperages!
The GS6 transformer absolutely is capable of running continuous 12v at full power, just the FETs might not quite be up to the task.
And this... As i recollect, the 12v variety cost an additional 100$ on the website. What's the difference? I would presume additional wiring - if so, does (did) this also add additional trace on the mainboard?
6000w at 12v would be touching 600A. That's ... a lot of power for those wires, even as short as they are. haha
And this... As i recollect, the 12v variety cost an additional 100$ on the website. What's the difference?
I can answer this one is it the fans the 12V fans with high flow are way more expensive than the ones in the other inverters. There is nothing else different. I asked this question too prior to ordering this batch.
On this topic... why exactly is it that everything else is pretty much voltage-agnostic (albeit requiring some minor rewiring), but the fans are not? No good trickery to supply "always 12v" to the fans?
Not with the fan power requirements. A 12v, 250CFM fan will pull 4A--and if there's four of those (in a 12kw), this requires a step-down converter that can comfortably handle an input of 8-80v, and provide 16A @ 12v at continuous duty across the entire input voltage range, without throwing the cost through the roof.
I can answer this one is it the fans the 12V fans with high flow are way more expensive than the ones in the other inverters. There is nothing else different. I asked this question too prior to ordering this batch.
Yup. The 24v and 48v fans are from our custom fan supplier--but as we aren't doing the high volume orders they'd like to see, I don't think we'll be able to convince them to make a tiny, tiny batch of 12v custom fans. I don't have exact numbers, but I believe we've sold less than five 12v inverters...grand total of all time. Any U.S. supplier will happily charge you $50/ea for a 250CFM fan.
And yes, there are no other changes for a 12v inverter. It would probably be a good idea if we replaced the FETs with lower voltage / lower resistance units--but at the end of the day, the TO-220 package is only good for 100A continuous anyway * 6 FETs/quarter = 600A max continuous = pretty much no surge capability. (All we'd gain from different FETs would be slightly less FET heat.)
6kw is kinda the max feasible limit at 12v, as I've gone over in detail with other customers. In short, at 600A, a TOTAL system resistance (battery internal resistance, battery cables, inverter internal bus bars, PCBs, FETs, transformer--and then all the way back out again) of 5 milliohms (0.005 ohms) will result in a voltage drop of 3v (and a heat dissipation of 1,800W). That's 12v on the battery and 9 volts on the transformer, a loss of 25% of the voltage...simply due to losses! Any "surge" current beyond this will make the losses even worse.
Obviously, losing 3v at 48v is a non-issue...you're now at 45v, whoop-de-do. A measly 6.25% loss.
Yeah. I'd love to do 48v. Sadly a 48v DC Genny is still very exotic. I haven't actually found a diesel variety at that voltage ever. I've seen a couple 48v petrol ones - even with autostart functionality. Tempting, but ultimately pointless without a lift pump and a 500+ gal external tank.
I've considered custom making one, but 48v starter motors aren't really a thing either. 😄 Quite a bit of power for a step-down converter to handle if i wanted to go that route. 😕
For now... military is standardized on 24v... works well enough for now. 🙂 Not sure about a 12KW, though...
5 hours ago, NotMario said:Not sure about a 12KW, though...
We plan to offer the 12kw in 24v. Transformer resistance is quite a bit lower, there's almost double the number of FETs...it should be feasible. Won't be a huge surge rating, but it should be doable. Again, if you lose 3v from 24v, you've still got 21v left (12.5% loss I guess!)