Specs for the Wires and Ring Terminals in the Rev C Upgrade?

Yeah, we probably should have some of those wires made up...

Anywhere from 16-12AWG wire will be fine.  Ring terminals are M3--or you can just wrap the wire around the screw terminals (making sure there's no rogue strands)...and call it good.

Length: shorter (within reason!) is better due to lower resistance.

Thanks.

We really need to get a CRM system implemented--it's way too easy for Sean and I to completely lose track of customers.  If you're doing an inverter upgrade/repair or whatever, I am more than happy to verify that it's all wired up right and work through the upgrade process.  Just let me know.

Don't recall seeing anything in the video regarding reconnecting the thermistor wires...? If it's there, can you provide a time stamp?

I'm assuming they connect on the side with the 1,2,3... connectors...any particular order?

The video really is valuable...I think I'd be begging for help if it wasn't available...thanks.

I have this wrong...

I see that there are 2 4 pin connectors on the Rev C board, but don't know whether order matters?

Order does not matter.  The A.1 / B boards have a single connector for thermistors; the C board simply adds a second connector for up to 4 temperature sensors.  You can use either or both (depending on how many thermistors you have).  (If I sent the C board to you, it should have a spare XHB-4 header in case you'd like to repin two of the WiFi board thermistors for the control board.)

I would be more than happy to verify things via video call on Thursday evening (EST) if that works for you.

Here goes.....

I hope you guys will give me a 12k (in sympathy) if I blow this upgraded inverter up... 🙂 Humping out to the power room now...

Thanks for the help.

Transformer polarity error...?

On 5/2/2023 at 10:04 PM, Richard said:

Transformer polarity error...?

If you copied the transformer secondaries from the A.1 / B board directly to the C board--then yes, this error is expected almost immediately upon startup.

...I tried so hard to keep the AC "polarity" (phase) between the A.1/B boards and the C boards--but I managed to get them completely backwards.  By the time I had realized the difference, there were already several C boards in the field...so it was too late to change it.

SO...just swap the TRANSFORMER wires on the L1 and L2 control board terminals.  (Not the red output wires to the front panel.)

After the transformer "polarity" is correct, the next step is to check the polarity of both the AC input and AC output current sensors.  (Again, I will be more than happy to go over this via video call with you.)

In short: connect the inverter's AC input to an AC source (120v or 240v...doesn't matter, it will auto-switch to accept).  Put a load on the inverter output (I recommend 100-400W; too big and it will trip off instantly if the current sense polarity is reversed) and watch the current readouts on the "OUT" screen on the inverter LCD.

If AC Input amperage goes negative, the AC input current sensor needs flipped.  You can either reverse the direction of the wires going through it OR if you're adventuresome, you can actually swap the 2 pins in the XHB-2 header of the sensor.  (If you're not familiar with repinning XH/XHB headers, don't try this!)

Same on the AC output: the amperage should go positive with load.  If it goes negative, the AC output current sensor polarity needs flipped.  NOTE: Amperage of a 120v load should read 1/2 what you expect, though the wattage should read correct.  It also should not matter which side (L1-N or L2-N) that you pull the load from--it should read equally on either side.

You can also check the raw sensor values from the Diagnostic Info page (OUT -> press Enter -> Down 3x should highlight "Diags" -> Enter -> scroll all the way down with "Down" to the "AC Out V/A" and "AC In V/A" lines.  The rightmost number in both of those columns should go positive when a load is applied to the inverter with the inverter in pass-thru mode to an AC input.

So the negative readings on output is just a display problem, having no effect on electricity generated?

If so, I'll just wait until I'm in the mood to open that unit up again. 

If the input or output sensors are backwards, it will cause any number of issues, including (but not limited to):

• Readouts reversed.
• Cumulative power subtracts instead of adds
• Battery charge unusable (inverter will not be able to calculate the power difference)
• Transfer Switch likely will trip off instantly (as it believes power is going the wrong way)
• AC input current limiting useless (as reversed sensors render the math completely unusable).
• GTM Regulate Fail errors under loads (resulting from the inverter believing that power is being backfed into the AC output terminals)

...this is why I offered several times (and continue to offer) to check things over via video call to make sure everything is wired correctly.

.this is why I offered several times (and continue to offer) to check things over via video call to make sure everything is wired correctly.

Genetry Solar  give a 2 year warranty if Sen do the repair. .....DIY get no warranty .

Swapped the direction of wire through the output side hall sensor and the readings all seem to be fine. Thanks.

If you ever plan to use AC input, it'd be wise to check polarity of that sensor as well--and before you "need to have it".